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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just ordered a set of KC Slimlites for my bull guard. Does anyone have a walk through on the installation? I would like to install on my own if possible. Also, i would like the switch to look factory and I dont think the one that comes with the kit will fit into the dash. Any help would be great.
 

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2008 Toyota Trail Teams Special Edition FJ Cruiser
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This is very easy to do. I just did this install with PIAA fog lights and the OEM switch.

Give me a second to post up some information.

First off, if you want the OEM button and Harness, you need to order one from a dealership. I got mine at Toyota of Dallas.
http://www.trdparts4u.com/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=-7001

Next, I utilized the OEM instructions on routing the wires in the engine bay and within the cab. It is very helpful in taking apart your lower dash components and console.
http://lastgreatroadtrip.com/myFiles/litefj71AUX.pdf

I assume your KCs are pre-wired the same as my PIAAs. You should be able to wire everything from the Relay (provided by KC) to the lights as per instructions. (see page 4 of linked PDF for wiring diagram)
http://www.piaa.com/Lamps/install/520.pdf

From the relay you should have wires running to the KC switch. (on my PIAAs I had 2 from the relay...power and ground, and one more coming off the PIAA switch to go to a 12v power source.)

Cut the KC switch off, and discard the loose third wire and KC switch. Now you should have only 2 wires coming from the relay to route through the firewall and into the cab. you can route them through the rubber boot at the drivers side under the hood hinge.

now you are ready to wire the OEM switch. See link for wiring info. this is what I used.
http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forums/how-technical-articles/49978-oem-aux-light-switch-diagram-schematic.html You will need to cut the connector at the non-switch end of the OEM harness off.

I routed the harness and grounded it as shown in the OEM instructions (link above). This put me right under the fuse panel to come up and plug my switch power into an add-a-circuit (pick one up at any auto store)...more on this below. It also puts you close to the rubber boot in the firewall to tie in the power and ground to the relay.

You will have to choose a power source for the switch. The Relay (under the hood) power is directly tied to the battery the way they come. Now you need to choose power for the switch. It can be constant/ key switched/ or tied into High beams or low beams (so that it can only be on with that light.)

I chose to use an "add-a-circuit" in a 'key-switched' blank inside fuse panel (or you could use an aftermarket fuse panel as some do for many accessories.) I chose this because I don't want them to stay on when the key is turned off. See picture below i grabbed from another thread:

"This picture came from another thread from our esteemed colleague SwissArmy.
The blue shows switched fuses and the black shows always hot fuses. You can see in the picture he has used several of them and I believe at least some of these were for fog lights."


my finished product...

 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Whoa that take apart looks intense. But maybe just cause its on paper. Ive taken apart the dash and console of my honda before and it was so easy after the first time. Thanks so much for your help. This is gonna be fun.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Awsome info guys. I do think doing a clean install is a better way to go as well. I had to cancel my order for the lights cause it turns out I ordered driving lights instead of fog lights but I am going to put in the correct order now.

I read online that some people have used the fog light switch from a tacoma instead of the fj cause it is cheaper and still oem. They mount it to the left of the steering wheel. Anyone do or hear about that?
 

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Awsome info guys. I do think doing a clean install is a better way to go as well. I had to cancel my order for the lights cause it turns out I ordered driving lights instead of fog lights but I am going to put in the correct order now.

I read online that some people have used the fog light switch from a tacoma instead of the fj cause it is cheaper and still oem. They mount it to the left of the steering wheel. Anyone do or hear about that?
Yes... this 4 pin switch. It has no light up when activated, but it does have back light.

FJ Cruiser fog light switch conversion FJ-FOGSW
 

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I have a question that I've been wanting to ask and this thread gives me the perfect opportunity. Maybe someone has a simple answer for me.

Currently I have 2 PIAA 520's on my rack tied to a factory relay and 2 fog's on my bumper tied to a simple toggle. These lights were on my rig when I bought it.

I'm planning on ordering 2 more lights for the top roof rack, and 2 rear facing lights for backup/flood.

Can I install the 2 extra driving lights on the same circuit or do I need another one?

Furthermore, how many "oem" fog light switches/harnesses can I install in the panel? I'd like to have one for each set of lights (driving, fog, and backup) I have room on the panel with blanks in most of the holes currently.

Thanks in advance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Yeah i know its not exactly fj looking but it would be a cleaner look that what comes with the lights. And it would only be a temp solution until i can save enough to get the real switch
 

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I have a question that I've been wanting to ask and this thread gives me the perfect opportunity. Maybe someone has a simple answer for me.

Currently I have 2 PIAA 520's on my rack tied to a factory relay and 2 fog's on my bumper tied to a simple toggle. These lights were on my rig when I bought it.

I'm planning on ordering 2 more lights for the top roof rack, and 2 rear facing lights for backup/flood.

Can I install the 2 extra driving lights on the same circuit or do I need another one?

Furthermore, how many "oem" fog light switches/harnesses can I install in the panel? I'd like to have one for each set of lights (driving, fog, and backup) I have room on the panel with blanks in most of the holes currently.

Thanks in advance.
Second question first: You can install as many OEM switches as you have blanks. That easy.

As for adding more lights...I assume they each come with a relay (per pair of lights) so I would keep each set of lights on a seperate switch AND circuit. That way you have the most control over what is on when and if a fuse blows, your not out all of your lights.

That said - you very well could use one switch for 4 rooftop lights. I would think one switch could activate 2 relays (= 4 lights). So that one switch would be on one circuit. I'm sure others have done it this way...I have not, as I have only 2 rooftop lights using the OEM wiring harness and switch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I was able to score the fj switch for 48 bucks with harness. Where would be the best place to mount the switch? Left of steering wheel or under the radio in a blank spot? I am thinking left of steering wheel so I can separate it from the other switches i am going to install for roof lights later on.

Thanks for all your input bc, its going to make this install so much easier.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
This is very easy to do. I just did this install with PIAA fog lights and the OEM switch.

Give me a second to post up some information.

First off, if you want the OEM button and Harness, you need to order one from a dealership. I got mine at Toyota of Dallas.
FOG LIGHT SWITCH / HARNESS PT297-35070-SH-AS

Next, I utilized the OEM instructions on routing the wires in the engine bay and within the cab. It is very helpful in taking apart your lower dash components and console.
http://lastgreatroadtrip.com/myFiles/litefj71AUX.pdf

I assume your KCs are pre-wired the same as my PIAAs. You should be able to wire everything from the Relay (provided by KC) to the lights as per instructions. (see page 4 of linked PDF for wiring diagram)
http://www.piaa.com/Lamps/install/520.pdf

From the relay you should have wires running to the KC switch. (on my PIAAs I had 2 from the relay...power and ground, and one more coming off the PIAA switch to go to a 12v power source.)

Cut the KC switch off, and discard the loose third wire and KC switch. Now you should have only 2 wires coming from the relay to route through the firewall and into the cab. you can route them through the rubber boot at the drivers side under the hood hinge.

now you are ready to wire the OEM switch. See link for wiring info. this is what I used.
http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forums/how-technical-articles/49978-oem-aux-light-switch-diagram-schematic.html You will need to cut the connector at the non-switch end of the OEM harness off.

I routed the harness and grounded it as shown in the OEM instructions (link above). This put me right under the fuse panel to come up and plug my switch power into an add-a-circuit (pick one up at any auto store)...more on this below. It also puts you close to the rubber boot in the firewall to tie in the power and ground to the relay.

You will have to choose a power source for the switch. The Relay (under the hood) power is directly tied to the battery the way they come. Now you need to choose power for the switch. It can be constant/ key switched/ or tied into High beams or low beams (so that it can only be on with that light.)

I chose to use an "add-a-circuit" in a 'key-switched' blank inside fuse panel (or you could use an aftermarket fuse panel as some do for many accessories.) I chose this because I don't want them to stay on when the key is turned off. See picture below i grabbed from another thread:

"This picture came from another thread from our esteemed colleague SwissArmy.
The blue shows switched fuses and the black shows always hot fuses. You can see in the picture he has used several of them and I believe at least some of these were for fog lights."


my finished product...

Now that I have my parts on the way( lights should be here next week and switch will be here tomorrow), i was reading the steps more closely. I dont think i completely understand what is going on in the first picture with the fuses. I get that we need to determine what is going to power the switch. I dont see the black and blue. Do you mean black or blue fuses? I would want mine to turn on and off with the switch and not always be on.

I dont fully understand the switch re-wiring but it may be come more clear when im actually looking at the harnesses.
 

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The black and blue being referred to is the permanent marker written on the white fuse block around the openings where the fuses are to be plugged in. The black marker indicates circuits that are hot no matter if the vehicle is running or not. The blue is showing the circuits that will only be hot when the vehicle is running. Your lights will turn on with the switch no matter which one of these you plug your add-a-circuit into. The only difference is that if you plug them into one of the blue circuits, they will turn off when the vehicle is turned off and will not turn on while the vehicle is off, not matter if the switch for the lights is in the "on" position. If plugged into the black, the lights will work just like your factory headlights, you will be able to turn the fogs on no matter if the vehicle is running. Hope that all makes sense.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I think I get it. The black and blue refer to the entire row next to the black and blue. Cool, if that's it it makes total sense. It's starting to come together now
 

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No the writing to the left of all of the fuses is the owner's key to the colors marked on the individual openings. Look closely at some of the blanks that don't hold fuses and you can see where certain ones are marked either black, blue or no markings. It does not refer to the entire row.
 

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