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Hi,

Bought a 2008 FJ Cruiser with 70k miles. There are a couple of issues I am seeing underneath in regards to rust. Do FJ Cruisers typically have rusting issues? If so, do I need to take it to a shop to review and possibly repair? I don't see anything rusting out, just general rust on the frame.

Thoughts?
 

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Rust on an FJ....kinda normal.

Pics would defiantly help as to which direction we point you in
 

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I just got an 08 FJ and also have rust issues. Body is great. Frame is scaly. Rear end housing is awful. All the little brackets and bolts underneath are very bad too. Floors and sheet metal underneath isn't too bad.

I've been doing research for weeks about this. It seems that the factory coatings/rust preventative was just not that good and most Toyota trucks had rust issues in this era and some before. The FJ is often used in wet conditions, including mud/sand/dirt which will hold additional moisture. Jeeps are the same way and they rust out underneath too.

My plan is to clean off all the undercoating as much as possible and just do Fluid Film applications every year, just in an effort to slow the decay process down so I can get my money out of this rig.

The rear end housing on mine is bad enough that I cannot get the fill/drain plugs out, so I may be in the market for a nicer housing.
 

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Rust can be expected depending on your location and environmental use. If you live in an area where the roads are salted heavily during the winter, it can increase the amount of corrosion and rust found in your vehicle. In my area, we have many bridges, which doesnt allow the heavy salting that some other areas might, so my vehicles have very little rusting. Humidity is another concern in the summertime. It really depends on where you live. Rust is usually only highly concerning if it is causing severe damage rapidly, such as bubbling paint or rusting through. If the metal if becoming thin because of the rust, it should be addressed. Otherwise, if it's surface rust, monitor it every year and don't worry about it.
 

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Rust is car cancer and cannot be ignored, especially if you live in areas with any kind of salt. Frequent undercarriage washing during winter, annual undercoating, touch up as needed is my routine. Wire brush, paint with rust encapsulator, then top coat/fluid film to deal with especially rusty areas. POR15 (after proper prep) is extremely tough, long-lasting. I’m also thinking of installing an electronic rust inhibitor (changes the charge on metal). I lost a favorite vehicle to rust so don’t be complacent about it!
 

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....
The rear end housing on mine is bad enough that I cannot get the fill/drain plugs out, so I may be in the market for a nicer housing.
Don't go aftermarket with the diff cover. Aftermarket stuff is just bling and will often reduce lube performance or decrease driveline efficiency (worse MPG).
Replace with a stock diff cover. If you want bling, put a bling diff skid over it, or paint your cover - this will help protect it from rust.
Look at an ocean going ship - it's constantly being painted to protect the steel - you should be doing the same to your FJ if it's in an area prone to rust.
 

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The FJC frame rust is a very serious problem as debFJVT said. Planned obsolescence is even apparent from the Japanese unfortunately. Inspect the frame in back of the front wheel, underneath inner next to the left converter and the other side. The frame rusts from the inside out in that area and it's the same in the early Tacoma's. There is a good FJC frame swap on YouTube that will open up your eyes on those who think frame rust is normal. Toyota lost the class action and recalled the Tacoma and others but FJC owners are just plain screwed. The rear cross member is another bad area both inside and outside on the frame. Spend 10x longer prepping then encapsulation painting is the real key to sealing it. When your done with that clean as much as you can inside the frame and fluid film that. I used a borescope to inspect the inside so I could concentrate on the bad areas.

I sold a Tundra do to bed rust even though it was recalled and redone through Toyota's half ass clean and poor quality undercoating for frame rust. I thought Toyota's recall was good enough but the bed connectors were left to rusted under the plastic liner and I couldn't see it. I discovered that the retards never apply any of the undercoating there or even bother to tell me about the rust.
 

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Hi,
I just called Toyota again about frame and engine rust. Same answer I've gotten for past 6-7 years.
"There's no recall" (... "and it's out of warranty.")
Eventhough I've been calling for years they don't have a profile under my new number (that I have had for 4 years and called them from - only my old number... Odd)
None of my previous calls or concerns are recorded either they say. Also odd.
I asked them what does it take for a recall.
The rep claimed they haven't had enough complaints to do a recall.
How much is enough? No response.

For anyone that is having problems with rust, please file a complaint if you haven't already and keep at them.
They won't do anything otherwise.
I pointed out to the rep that I'm given the same answer each time I call and if they do ever take the responsibility of a rust recall, by then I'll be told my truck is too old.
No response.

I'm in rural Ontario, Canada.
I've never seen rust eat through a frame like this on any of my other vehicles. Not even my 2001 BMW.
I bought 2008 truck new to last.
The only issues I've had over the years are the axles seals blowing and evidence of mice in the truck straight off the lot. Oh, and the back door hasn't unlocked with key for about 7 yrs.
No, dealership didn't do anything about that either.
 

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I'm sad to say my 4/2006 rear axle is falling apart. The rear axle coil mounts and link mounts are going pretty fast.
 

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I'm sad to say my 4/2006 rear axle is falling apart. The rear axle coil mounts and link mounts are going pretty fast.
Hey ruebarb, hadn't seen ya post in awhile. :) Yeah that is pretty bad, no doubt you'll have to do something about it in the near future. This is my only suggestion, as long as the rust is isolated to the brackets you could cut them off and weld these on.

https://www.currieenterprises.com/FJ-BRKT-R
 

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Hey ruebarb, hadn't seen ya post in awhile. :) Yeah that is pretty bad, no doubt you'll have to do something about it in the near future. This is my only suggestion, as long as the rust is isolated to the brackets you could cut them off and weld these on.

https://www.currieenterprises.com/FJ-BRKT-R
Much thanks, I appreciate the suggestion, hadn't seen those. Only the brackets are toast, this is a viable option.

Yeah, haven't been around, Life, been tough and throwing more punches each day.
 

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I'm at 13 years, I'm hoping I can make another 7. I had planned to drive this truck until I couldn't buy parts for it. I think the rust will take it long before then.

I won't be buying another Toyota.
 

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After 12 years of Northeast winters, I finally got to the rust on the factory rock rails, peeled away the disintegrating skid plate, and added a new trailworx bumper. I highly recommend POR-15, for the frame and other parts, I applied it to the new steal trailworx bumper, which is still glowing after a few high gloss top coats.
 

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After 12 years of Northeast winters, I finally got to the rust on the factory rock rails, peeled away the disintegrating skid plate, and added a new trailworx bumper. I highly recommend POR-15, for the frame and other parts, I applied it to the new steal trailworx bumper, which is still glowing after a few high gloss top coats.
I've been apply POR15 for years, even on these parts. I've cleaned, acid washed, ..... POR15 hold up only slightly better than other paints, it seems to be picky on the type of metal. I find the Rustoleum spray on rust stop and then spray on top coats work just as well now.
 

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I have had pretty good success with the Rustoleum Rust Reformer. Lots of salt on the roads here in the winter time so the rust issues can be a b****. I try to look out for any rust spots popping up, get down and hit them a little with a sanding wheel, and then cover with the Rust Reformer. Might not be the best option out there, but I'm up to about 220,000 miles without any major rust spots to speak of.

I saw somewhere on here where a member had found another frame (not sure if it was salvaged or what) and sanded/acid washed/coated the whole thing and then transferred everything else over. Doubt that's reasonable for most, but sure would be nice if you planned on keepin the FJ for life.
 

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I filed a case, if FJ owners don't call and let Toyota know, they won't recognize they have a problem.

800-331-4331
#4 #2
 

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:flame: FJ Cruiser Rusted Frame Owners Unite
We all love our FJ Cruiser. Fun to drive, fun to mod. The purpose of FJ Cruiser Rusted Frame Owners Unite on Facebook is to connect those of us whose frames are rusting, some even to failure and to be able to tell your story of what Toyota is or is not doing to help. Safety is our priority and we want you to be aware of frame and fuel tank strap rust. Join us for the most up to date information and help preserve our iconic vehicles. Posts must include a picture of the rust but everyone is welcome to join the discussions.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/632711680558455/about/

Even if don't join us on Facebook you can still participate by following the the links below. US residence, if you haven't done so file a safety complaint with the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration for frame structural rust and or fuel tank strap rust. The NHTSA can force a Toyota recall with enough recorded problems.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...rUknwaBcoKfHqg

IMPORTANT: A link to a petition form below will provide information on your particular FJ to help with a resolution. All US, Canada, and other countries are all welcome to participate.

https://forms.gle/V4MUhMshgM5GgPqs9
 

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Speaking from experience on salty canadian roads the best protection is oil sprays right from new, Krown being most common. For already rusty frames (surface) I've had luck by removing most with a wire wheel, spray paint the crap out if it with Tremclad professional black paint...then drench in this stuff called Rust Cure 3000. Its really amazing, and non petroleum based so it wont swell rubber components. I started taking action when doing an oil change my skid plate literally disintegrated when I pulled it off (after snapping every single bolt too).

I think POR15 is a cool product but cant compete with traditional oil spray in terms of rust prevention. If you live in the north east it may be a better idea to spray the undercarriage in the summer when we experience crazy humidity. Also dont ever use that asphalt undercoating stuff, it sucks.

ruebarb thanks for filing the claim.
 
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