I know Doug from Dark Horse has already posted pics of 2 different rigs as well as a handful of videos, but here are a few details from a real-world customer perspective.
Removal of the stock windows:
This wasn't quite as easy as originally advertised. Places were quoting ridiculous prices, as well as needing the rig for a full day, blah, blah, blah.
Regardless, Doug called around and found a place (Tim from High Class Auto Glass). After talking to Tim on Wednesday, I talked him into the first appointment of the day today (Friday).
My window was 8-9. Tim called at 8:17 and was here by 8:25.
I didn't snap any photos out in the snow removing the windows, but it was very interesting for me to watch. He was extremely careful with everything he was doing. Taking precautions not to scratch things and of course to not break or drop the glass itself.
Here's what it looked like after the stock glass was removed.
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Well, I returned the FJ to the garage to start warming up and was back to my desk before my 9:00 meeting. Definitely not the 6 to 8 hours Safelite quoted me.
OK, now on to the install.
Assuming the place you go to have your stock glass removed takes off the trim, just like Tim did for me. I'd recommend asking them not to replace it and keeping it off until your install is done (I'll explain why later).
Here is the trim I'm referring to:
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On a side note - those clips you see...the passenger side were white, while the driver side were pink. They look identical to me, but if you happen to break one and need a replacement, I figured it was worth calling out.
And on we go...
In video #2 from their site, Doug pulls this pin out with a thumb and a finger. Either he's got the strongest fingers in the world, or I was doing something wrong. I yanked on that thing for a few minutes before getting a really small screwdriver and prying up the 2nd level of the pin.
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Template on and ready to rock.
Note - only one template comes with your purchase. Be kind to it, as you'll need it for both sides. Notice how I was careful with the tape so that if I was unable to remove it, I'd be able to fold over nicely when moving to the other side.
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Not knowing what was "behind the curtain" at the top, I chose to prevent my drill from diving in too far. As it turns out, I didn't need to do this.
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Holes drilled and ready to keep moving.
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Trim ring bent and mounted. Make sure you spend a good amount of time getting this as perfect as possible. Check, double-check, triple-check and check again to make sure everything is sitting even and as flush as possible. Once you expose the tape and get it mounted, adjustments are tough to make.
![]()
If you do need to bend it slightly after mounting, I ended up using some adjustable c-clamps with good rubber feet. Some strategic squeezing and positioning let me adjust the first one slightly, but an extra 90 seconds on the 2nd one prevented the headache.
Installing the hinges is very straight forward. Female ends go to the bottom and front of the FJ, then a few rivets and they're on. If you watch the video, you'll see on the 2nd hinge, Doug puts in both rivets to keep things lined up. I did this for all 4 and ran into no issues.
When you go to install the latch, you will need to make sure it is fully flush with the FJ before putting in the bolts. I tried to get a good pic of the minimal amount of thread you'll have to start with. Trust me, it isn't much.
![]()
Once you get the nut started, you're good to go. A T10 torx bit held the bolts perfectly, while an 11/32 socket fit for the nut.
Now...once you have these all installed, I'd recommend deviating from the plan slightly here.
Before installing the gasket, I'd suggest you test-fit the new windows. Without requiring the extra force the gasket requires, you can get a feel for how it needs to line up, how far down it goes, the force required to get it in the hinge, etc... The little bit of extra time will help your confidence when you go to mount them at the end.
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Next it is time to install the gasket. This is the reason I suggested above that you leave the lower trim piece off. It allows you to get the gasket right down at the bottom, as compared to the video where Doug is trying to force it down past that piece of rubber.
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Window installed (not yet latched)
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Connecting the latch is truly as simple as it looks, one handed operation.
![]()
And now for some action shots....
Open all the way (I agree, a lot of air is going to be moving through now).
![]()
Partially open (likely how I'll be rolling once the snow melts)
![]()
You will notice that they do stick out a bit from what was there before. I took this to try and put it in perspective.
![]()
Trim back on.
![]()
![]()
No extra parts that I forgot.
![]()
Removal of the stock windows:
This wasn't quite as easy as originally advertised. Places were quoting ridiculous prices, as well as needing the rig for a full day, blah, blah, blah.
Regardless, Doug called around and found a place (Tim from High Class Auto Glass). After talking to Tim on Wednesday, I talked him into the first appointment of the day today (Friday).
My window was 8-9. Tim called at 8:17 and was here by 8:25.
I didn't snap any photos out in the snow removing the windows, but it was very interesting for me to watch. He was extremely careful with everything he was doing. Taking precautions not to scratch things and of course to not break or drop the glass itself.
Here's what it looked like after the stock glass was removed.
Well, I returned the FJ to the garage to start warming up and was back to my desk before my 9:00 meeting. Definitely not the 6 to 8 hours Safelite quoted me.
OK, now on to the install.
Assuming the place you go to have your stock glass removed takes off the trim, just like Tim did for me. I'd recommend asking them not to replace it and keeping it off until your install is done (I'll explain why later).
Here is the trim I'm referring to:
On a side note - those clips you see...the passenger side were white, while the driver side were pink. They look identical to me, but if you happen to break one and need a replacement, I figured it was worth calling out.
And on we go...
In video #2 from their site, Doug pulls this pin out with a thumb and a finger. Either he's got the strongest fingers in the world, or I was doing something wrong. I yanked on that thing for a few minutes before getting a really small screwdriver and prying up the 2nd level of the pin.
Template on and ready to rock.
Note - only one template comes with your purchase. Be kind to it, as you'll need it for both sides. Notice how I was careful with the tape so that if I was unable to remove it, I'd be able to fold over nicely when moving to the other side.
Not knowing what was "behind the curtain" at the top, I chose to prevent my drill from diving in too far. As it turns out, I didn't need to do this.
Holes drilled and ready to keep moving.
Trim ring bent and mounted. Make sure you spend a good amount of time getting this as perfect as possible. Check, double-check, triple-check and check again to make sure everything is sitting even and as flush as possible. Once you expose the tape and get it mounted, adjustments are tough to make.
If you do need to bend it slightly after mounting, I ended up using some adjustable c-clamps with good rubber feet. Some strategic squeezing and positioning let me adjust the first one slightly, but an extra 90 seconds on the 2nd one prevented the headache.
Installing the hinges is very straight forward. Female ends go to the bottom and front of the FJ, then a few rivets and they're on. If you watch the video, you'll see on the 2nd hinge, Doug puts in both rivets to keep things lined up. I did this for all 4 and ran into no issues.
When you go to install the latch, you will need to make sure it is fully flush with the FJ before putting in the bolts. I tried to get a good pic of the minimal amount of thread you'll have to start with. Trust me, it isn't much.
Once you get the nut started, you're good to go. A T10 torx bit held the bolts perfectly, while an 11/32 socket fit for the nut.
Now...once you have these all installed, I'd recommend deviating from the plan slightly here.
Before installing the gasket, I'd suggest you test-fit the new windows. Without requiring the extra force the gasket requires, you can get a feel for how it needs to line up, how far down it goes, the force required to get it in the hinge, etc... The little bit of extra time will help your confidence when you go to mount them at the end.
Next it is time to install the gasket. This is the reason I suggested above that you leave the lower trim piece off. It allows you to get the gasket right down at the bottom, as compared to the video where Doug is trying to force it down past that piece of rubber.
Window installed (not yet latched)
Connecting the latch is truly as simple as it looks, one handed operation.
And now for some action shots....
Open all the way (I agree, a lot of air is going to be moving through now).
Partially open (likely how I'll be rolling once the snow melts)
You will notice that they do stick out a bit from what was there before. I took this to try and put it in perspective.
Trim back on.
No extra parts that I forgot.
