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Wow, I didn't even think of 1/16" NPT. If you don't have a tap set, you'd prolly want to go with a brass fitting. Otherwise, plastic is just as good for what you need.

Maybe it's be easier to go with xrement's idea, which is also innovative. Rather than a needle-type though, maybe buy a plastic vacuum hose fitting and JBweld or even thread it into the cover. Again, a tap set will ensure a proper fit.
 

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I recently lost my 4wd for the second time. The first was in route to Summit 5 so I was parked during the event. This time, it went out while driving normal. Being that the computer is giving no code, my dealer told me that it was the front differential because I have 4.56 gears, though I have no other signs like the typical noises of broken gears. So, today I decided to change the diff oil to see if anything unusual was in the oil. Oil was fine, but I noticed this (see picture) and was wondering if this is normal. Appears to be a large hole in my ADD. Can't find my multimeter or would check the resistance.

 

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The ADD is your issue. There is a circuit in that area that and with the whole being there, the circuit isn't getting completed causing your 4wd issues. Your dealer is full of ****.

Did you happen to have an older set of ricochet hd skids?

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The ADD is your issue. There is a circuit in that area that and with the whole being there, the circuit isn't getting completed causing your 4wd issues. Your dealer is full of ****.
I agree 100%! And think that it is funny that he could tell me it was my diff when he didn't even remove the skid plates. Apparently I took a hit the last wheeling cause the back bolt was a little bent and it was a pain getting that one and another off.


Did you happen to have an older set of ricochet hd skids?
Yes, I bought the HD skids very soon after he started selling the them for the 2010+ models. And they have taken some pounding, so I am assuming the rectangular indentation is from the skids.
 

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Check this thread out on what you need to do to modify your skids so it doesn't happen again: http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2201726

The actuator is pretty simple to change yourself. Search for a thread by the user 1911 for a good how to.

As for purchasing the actuator, you may want to check with justdifferentials.com. it's not listed on their website, so call, but sometimes they have them and you can get them for about half the price as the stealership.

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Check this thread out on what you need to do to modify your skids so it doesn't happen again: Ricochet HD skid with auto transmissions possible issue - Toyota FJ Cruiser Forum

The actuator is pretty simple to change yourself. Search for a thread by the user 1911 for a good how to.

As for purchasing the actuator, you may want to check with justdifferentials.com. it's not listed on their website, so call, but sometimes they have them and you can get them for about half the price as the stealership.

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Cool! I will give him a call tomorrow. Justdifferentials is where I bought my 4.56 gears from. And thanks for the link for modifying my skids. Definitely don't want to keep replacing the ADD.

Supposed to Barnwell this weekend with Wilson and the Dallas crew, so hopefully I will have it fixed in time.
 

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The actuator is pretty simple to change yourself. Search for a thread by the user 1911 for a good how to.
This is THAT thread. Haha.

Anyone answer this?

If the ADD isn't activating on an 07, will the 4WD indicator flash, or stay dark?



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銀チタン;3222513 said:
Better pack the long johns!!!
And rain gear! :bigthumb: Going to be muddy at Barnwell this weekend.


Unfortunately justdifferentials.com is out of the actuators and appears he isn't getting anymore. I can get one online for about $285. Called one of our local dealers.... $445. :flame: Whatever!
 

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銀チタン;3222505 said:
This is THAT thread. Haha.

Anyone answer this?

If the ADD isn't activating on an 07, will the 4WD indicator flash, or stay dark?



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Haha, I i didn't even realize I was in the thread i quoted.

I can't answer question for certain, but I'd think that you would get the flashing due to what the manual says is an incomplete shift.....as long as none of the transfer case switches are bad that would initially indicate the shift to 4Wd



And rain gear! :bigthumb: Going to be muddy at Barnwell this weekend.


Unfortunately justdifferentials.com is out of the actuators and appears he isn't getting anymore. I can get one online for about $285. Called one of our local dealers.... $445. :flame: Whatever!
I seem to recall someone saying that they got one from east coast gear supply recently. I'd try them too before shelling out to the stealership.

Good luck in getting it repaired in time for your outing.


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And rain gear! :bigthumb: Going to be muddy at Barnwell this weekend.


Unfortunately justdifferentials.com is out of the actuators and appears he isn't getting anymore. I can get one online for about $285. Called one of our local dealers.... $445. :flame: Whatever!
I am not sure who you talked to, but we have actuators in stock here at the shop. Carl just double checked for me. Give us a call or email using the contact info in my signature.

Thanks!
 
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Well we found more, CALL OR EMAIL TO ORDER, please no PM's


Often referred to as “A.D.D” Disconnect, Axle Actuator, etc.
Link:
TOY41400-35032
Front Axle Disconnect Actuator & Axle Tube T8S, Toyota FJ Cruiser, Tacoma, 4runner (Take-off) $200

View attachment 196539

Or if you would like to do away with the Axle disconnect and go to a 1-piece axle and tube:
TOY41400-35032MAN
Toyota Front Non-Disconnect Axle Shaft & Tube T8S, Toyota FJ Cruiser, Tacoma, 4runner, AWD

View attachment 196538


But we also have:

TOY41400-35020
Front Axle Disconnect Actuator & Tube T7.5R, 95.5-04 Tacoma, 96-02 4runner (Take-off) $125

TOY41400-35010
Front A.D.D. Axle Disco. Actuator & Tube 86-95 Pickup & 4runner(Take-off) $100

TOY41400-35010MAN
Front A.D.D. Disco. Elim. 1-piece Axle & Tube 86-95 P/U & 4runner(Take-off) (Use MIL490 hubs) $150

CALL OR EMAIL TO ORDER, please no PM's
 

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I am not sure who you talked to, but we have actuators in stock here at the shop. Carl just double checked for me. Give us a call or email using the contact info in my signature.

Thanks!
I just replied back to Mike. Unfortunately after the first email the other day I was able to use a coworker's discount at one of our Toyota dealers and bought one for $275. That's a BIG markup from $275 to $445 the other dealer told me!
 

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This information is very helpful. I have a 2007 FJ Cruiser that won't go into 4WD and removed the part you call an A.D.D. yesterday. I was expecting to find a solenoid that was not working but when I opened it up there was a Rube Goldberg arrangement of switches, gears and a motor. The connections all seem good. The shift fork was pretty well stuck but after running it back and forth a few times it seems to be moving fairly freely. I can clean it up and lube it but I don't want to put it back together if there is some sort of electrical problem. I have continuity. How do you test these?

Thanks you,

David Morris
 

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They are take-offs of used diffs, as we ship our 3rd members without them.

Often referred to as “A.D.D” Disconnect, Axle Actuator, etc.
Sorry if this is a repeat but my previous post doesn't seem to have made it -- there was a message about it needing to be approved.

I came across this thread after I pulled the actuator off of my FJ. I was thinking I would find a solenoid that was not working but when I opened the case I found the motor/gear assembly. Everything seems OK electrically -- the only thing I noticed was that the shift fork seemed to be pretty sticky. I tested all of the connector pins to the motor, switch and two position tracers inside the case and they all seem to have connectivity with no shorts. I lubed the gears and cleaned the shift fork out and it moves much more freely. I also replaced the hex and Phillips screws with stainless allen screws to make it easier to get off and on.

I ordered a takeoff part from you in case this isn't the problem but that part won't arrive until Monday so I would like to test what I have before I put it back together. How do you bench test one of these?

Thanks in advance
 

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To see if the actuator works, I unplugged the factory one, put the replacement ontop of my floor jack so I could plug it in and threw the transfer shifter, the fork will move.

You can test either of them this way.
 

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Hello. I realize this is an old post, but I just removed the cover from the actuator on my FJ and I was wondering if the top gear position matters upon reassembly. Specifically, does it matter if the top gear is rotated in any particular orientation with the fork in the "disengaged" position. I ask because I did not pay attention to the orientation when I took the cover off and the top gear fell out. It goes back on easy enough, but there is no particular notch, mark, or other reference for reinserting it.

Thanks much.
 

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Howdy. Seems this is the second time I've had this issue. However, I'm having another issue with battery drain, and was wondering if the two could be related? I was on the way to the dog park, and tried against all hope to see if she would actually slip into 4 HI, she did not. I stopped at 7-11 to get a water, I was only inside for like 3 minutes. When I got back to the FJ, it would not start. It wouldn't turn over. Battery completely drained. I walked the dog to a Firestone, they gave me a lift back and jumped the FJ and it started right up. Decided to call it a day and drove home instead of risk getting stuck at the dog park. The next day, I tried starting her up, and same problem, a drained battery. The battery was made in August, 2012. I was wondering if my trying to engage the front differential might have caused some issue with the electric motor that drives it? The mechanic that gave me a jump and I came to the conclusion that since it immediately started and continued to run, that the alternator isn't the issue. I'm just wondering if it is coincidence these two things happened at the same time, or they are actually related?
 

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When the engine is running, what is your voltmeter reading?

If you have a analog or DVOM you can touch the battery terminals while the engine is running and see what the reading is. If it between 13.8 and 14.7 volts the alternator is likely fine.

You could disconnect the negative terminal from the battery and connect a DVOM in series and see what the parasitic draw is on the battery with everything turned off. If it's above a small fraction of an amp, you can start pulling fuses one at a time to see which circuit might be causing your problem.

DEWFPO
 

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This is the closest i came to my problem.

I have a hilux 2x4 that i have converted to a 4x4.
everything is installed.

I also have the exact same actuator on my front diff.
My hold up now is i don't know how to connect that actuator.

I dont know what cable goes were.
I want to make this a manual switch selection.

But i dont know where goes what?

Can anyone please help me?
 
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