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トヨタ Master
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So, “locking” back on lockers :lol: I discovered the extra stress of turning with front locked caused my drivers CV to clackityclack loudly. Rebooted my spare CV and installed it today. I think CV axles will be a target of wear from using the front locker. Might be wise to pick up a second spare :thinkerg:
Are you running RCVs yet? If not, you will be. The plus and minus of using a front locker is kind of a Frankenstein thing. The monster will break components, but when locked, it will also let you know you have breakage.

 

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MOAB SUPERSTAR
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5,761 Posts
Discussion Starter #42 (Edited)
Are you running RCVs yet? If not, you will be. The plus and minus of using a front locker is kind of a Frankenstein thing. The monster will break components, but when locked, it will also let you know you have breakage.

I was just discussing RCVs high angle setup, and said how my angle is actually quite good. Also I’ve never had a problem with my inner boots, always the outer getting sliced by swaybar detatching from my discos :mecry: So given the internals are OE I don’t think they’d do a lot for me, unless I’m missing something. Look awesome tho! And agree with you about the locker potentiating problems in other components...still worth it to me!

Edit-I confused RCV’s with the rebuilt CVJ axles. I decided against RCVs previously because I still view OE Cv axles as fuses, and would rather break a CV than anything up the line.
 

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トヨタ Master
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I was just discussing RCVs high angle setup, and said how my angle is actually quite good. Also I’ve never had a problem with my inner boots, always the outer getting sliced by swaybar detatching from my discos :mecry: So given the internals are OE I don’t think they’d do a lot for me, unless I’m missing something. Look awesome tho! And agree with you about the locker potentiating problems in other components...still worth it to me!

Edit-I confused RCV’s with the rebuilt CVJ axles. I decided against RCVs previously because I still view OE Cv axles as fuses, and would rather break a CV than anything up the line.
I thought that originally but I now think that U-Joints will become the fuse. Way easier to change the prop shaft in a mud puddle on the trail. Maybe there should be an experiment?

 

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MOAB SUPERSTAR
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Discussion Starter #44 (Edited)
I thought that originally but I now think that U-Joints will become the fuse. Way easier to change the prop shaft in a mud puddle on the trail. Maybe there should be an experiment?

What experiment would you suggest?? I think Mb4S presents a few scenarios :rofl: Besides, I’ll be carrying a spare driveshaft :wink
 

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トヨタ Master
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I thought that originally but I now think that U-Joints will become the fuse. Way easier to change the prop shaft in a mud puddle on the trail. Maybe there should be an experiment?

What experiment would you suggest?? I think Mb&4S presents a few scenarios :rofl: Besides, I’ll be carrying a spare driveshaft :wink
Mb&4s? Not familiar with their work (I googled it and it came up with pest control). Not sure you have Gremlins. :lol: So why do you carry a spare shaft but no CV if the CV is to become the fuse? :browsmiley::thinkerg:
 

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MOAB SUPERSTAR
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Discussion Starter #46
Mb&4s? Not familiar with their work (I googled it and it came up with pest control). Not sure you have Gremlins. :lol: So why do you carry a spare shaft but no CV if the CV is to become the fuse? :browsmiley::thinkerg:
Fixed it - Mb4S...Moab before Summit :grin Def got gremlins! I carry one CV axle and now considering carrying two :lol:
 

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トヨタ Master
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I wish we could convert out hubs to manual on the FJs. They used to make these things called Hub Fuses. They may still make them. It was a good cheap natural defense against front locker abuse. These are the Warn versions.

 

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トヨタ Master
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Aisin hubs are some of the best ever made. They used them on Toyota, Nissan, Isuzu, Mazda, and others. I've never broken one, even with a front locker in my '90 SAS pickup with Detroit Locker.
 

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Premium Member
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Aisin hubs are some of the best ever made. They used them on Toyota, Nissan, Isuzu, Mazda, and others. I've never broken one, even with a front locker in my '90 SAS pickup with Detroit Locker.
G'Day CC,
In the back of my mind some where, i thought I recalled reading something a while back... about manual hubs ...some one DU has a hub conversion kit, to convert the auto hubs to manual lockers...
Trouble is my feeble old brain can't remember the details......
If I remember later, :lol: I'll try to find the info......
Cheers
Baz
:blueblob:
 

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トヨタ Master
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G'Day CC,
In the back of my mind some where, i thought I recalled reading something a while back... about manual hubs ...some one DU has a hub conversion kit, to convert the auto hubs to manual lockers...
Trouble is my feeble old brain can't remember the details......
If I remember later, :lol: I'll try to find the info......
Cheers
Baz
:blueblob:
Oh crap! You gotta sweep up that bottle of Geritol or Centrum Silver now! :surprise

I'm intrigued! :rofl:
 

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Premium Member
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Check this out. I came across just today at the wrecking yard . This was a Tacoma .
 

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Premium Member
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So, “locking” back on lockers :lol: I discovered the extra stress of turning with front locked caused my drivers CV to clackityclack loudly. Rebooted my spare CV and installed it today. I think CV axles will be a target of wear from using the front locker. Might be wise to pick up a second spare :thinkerg:
I don’t seem to need to turn much when locked in the front, usually a ledge or very steep straight spot.
You remember to turn the front lock off when your turning and it goes straight

RCVs are tough but I agree to let your stock shafts be your fuse.
My RCVs are not on a FJ but I get teeth missing on my ring gear before the u-joint. Usually in a bounce
 

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トヨタ Master
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5,795 Posts
Check this out. I came across just today at the wrecking yard . This was a Tacoma .
'95-'04? These were factory on some early model Tacomas, particularly with the factory 2.7L engines on the base DX models.
 

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トヨタ Master
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5,795 Posts
I don’t seem to need to turn much when locked in the front, usually a ledge or very steep straight spot.
You remember to turn the front lock off when your turning and it goes straight

RCVs are tough but I agree to let your stock shafts be your fuse.
My RCVs are not on a FJ but I get teeth missing on my ring gear before the u-joint. Usually in a bounce
297X U-Joints on the axle joints and you're sheering teeth on that Dana 44?
 

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Premium Member
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Oh crap! You gotta sweep up that bottle of Geritol or Centrum Silver now! :surprise

I'm intrigued! :rofl:
G'Day CC,
I think I must have been wrong.... I cant find what I thought I saw way back, about FJ manual hubs...
I recall I was researching Portal Axles when I came across it.... there are some nifty portals DU for LC's ...
and lots about hubs for older LC's ..etc.... but nothing specific to the FJ....
Still it gave you a tickle... hahaha ...so it was worth it
:rofl::rofl:

Cheers
Baz
:blueblob:
 

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MOAB SUPERSTAR
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5,761 Posts
Discussion Starter #58
I don’t seem to need to turn much when locked in the front, usually a ledge or very steep straight spot.
You remember to turn the front lock off when your turning and it goes straight

RCVs are tough but I agree to let your stock shafts be your fuse.
My RCVs are not on a FJ but I get teeth missing on my ring gear before the u-joint. Usually in a bounce
Right, and I would not/do not turn anywhere near as much as I did for those tests of cv health right after locker install. It was a huge amount of stress on the axles. But it did exactly what intended - I’ll test the the replacement axle this morning same way and be done with turning while locked....unless I hear the same noise :surprise Woke up to two inches of fresh snow so doubt I’ll be running any ledge trails today tho..... :mecry:
 

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Mean Time Moderator
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5,103 Posts
To qualify I have vehicles with mechanical, electric, and air lockers.

Why the dislike for air?

No argument here, just discussion.
Just too much to fail, leak etc.... my ARB’s worked OK but the rear drew oil up the line continuously, OK only a teeny tiny bit but still annoying had a catch can under the hood for it....ARB sell a ‘kit’ to run the lines into the airbox to burn it off...so obviously a common issue. But with seals that are hard to seat, etc etc I prefer e or mechanical for reliability.
 

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Premium Member
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Just too much to fail, leak etc.... my ARB’s worked OK but the rear drew oil up the line continuously, OK only a teeny tiny bit but still annoying had a catch can under the hood for it....ARB sell a ‘kit’ to run the lines into the airbox to burn it off...so obviously a common issue. But with seals that are hard to seat, etc etc I prefer e or mechanical for reliability.
I’ll one up ya:laugh

My solenoids to the axles are inside the cab, on long hauls on the highway the 90 wt gets warm it likes to vent through the locker supply line on the rear axle.
Ya, it has that gear oil smell but it’s a soft top so there is always plenty of ventilation

I like the instant on/off the air lockers provide.
 
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