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I bought a 3in toytec lift for my 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser that I bought two weeks ago when I inspected it when I bought it in full cash. It looked okay Granite this was at night, so I did not get to take a great look. The rear end in the frame look great the front end. I was not able to take a good look at. I had not been able to take one single bolt out. The way it's supposed to I've had to cut grind or extract with a bolt extractor or drill into the bull in extract. The bolt with in extracting tool just to get it out to get the skid plates. Sway bar brackets sway bar end links everything I have spent over 40 hours trying to get a 3-inch lift kit on my Toyota and it's driving me nuts. And all this includes is a sway bar bracket spacer, which is about a half-inch and it moves to swaybar down in forward slightly to clear the new coils. It includes toytec coilovers. I put new sway bar end links. And that is it, but I'm having problems getting every Bolt & Nut off. Due to rust I'm having to use extracting tools. It's even a problem. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

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Try soaking bolts with a penetrant for a couple of days. Then put a wrench or vice grip on it and wiggle back and forth with not much force. After a while, it will show a sign of movement. Patience works here.
 

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Additional thoughts to remove stuck fasteners:
if you have a torch (even a MAP gas torch might be hot enough) you can heat the fastener to expand it, then after it cools the rust grip might be broken.
Bonus round: while cooling, apply some candle wax to the threads, and often the wax will be wicked into them, adding lubrication for the removal.

If a bolt head breaks off, drilling a small hole down its center, all of the way through, and then gradually increasing the bit diameter (using reverse thread bits if you have them so the stub might spin out during the drilling), you can remove any broken piece of a bolt there is. It takes several minutes, but with a slow enough drill (the drill can cut at a certain rate and trying to exceed that rate will overheat and ruin the bit - aim for long curly chips), and a drop of oil for cooling, they'll come out. Then clean up the threads with a tap, or if they got damaged during the removal, heli-coil or time-sert to restore the threads.

Avoid "Ezi-out" tools, they don't work and after they (inevitably) break in the hole they make the problem much, much worse (being hardened they are brittle so they break easily, and being hardened they cannot be drilled through).

If a nut is rounded off, use a gripping socket (has sharp spiral shape inside) and a hammer to drive it on, and it will come off, with a long enough lever arm (a piece of pipe on the end of your ratchet/breaker bar helps a LOT).

Use anti-seize on the threads for re-assembly to avoid having this much trouble next time (all the while grumbling that the DPO didn't do that in the first place!).

Norm
 
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