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Discussion Starter #1
Right now i have the stock fj 6x9's and the dash mounted 3.5's
i have tried replacing the 6x9's with boston's, infinity and kenwoods and they all sound inferior to the stocks. I know this cant be so, so there must be something going on with the ohms.
Any idea on how to get better sound in the front of the fj?
I have thought of getting good 6x9's and unplugging the 3.5's or just doing a set of 6.5 components.
Although the stock setup i have now does not disappoint, i know better sound from better speakers is possible.
Thank you!!!
 

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Aftermarket 6x9's are ridiculously power hungry, I would highly recommend an amp.
 

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Are you running the stock head unit? 6x9 speakers wil run on an aftermarket deck with no problem. I have sony 6x9 in the doors, and JBL up in the dash, all running off deck power using a Kenwood HU. Sounds sooo much better than stock.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The tweeters, did you mount them on the dash or did you custom mount them? Also how did you route the cable from the tweeter into the door. Was it difficult?
 

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I don't have the model # on the sony 6x9, I bought those a while ago. Just installed the JBL today. (replacing POS blown out Clarions) The JBL sounds so much better than the Clarion. The model #on the JBL is GTO 327 :cheers:
 

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Right now i have the stock fj 6x9's and the dash mounted 3.5's
i have tried replacing the 6x9's with boston's, infinity and kenwoods and they all sound inferior to the stocks. I know this cant be so, so there must be something going on with the ohms.
Any idea on how to get better sound in the front of the fj?
I have thought of getting good 6x9's and unplugging the 3.5's or just doing a set of 6.5 components.
Although the stock setup i have now does not disappoint, i know better sound from better speakers is possible.
Thank you!!!
Upgrading the 6x9's alone is not going to do the job - sound stage at your feet, highs and mids blocked by legs, high frequency dispersion angle problems, and more. Major issues with component 6-1/2's and with less bass than a 6x9 - midrange on the floor and tweeters in your face, too much distance between the two, etc. Also, the dash speakers should match the 6x9's as closely as possible, preferably with crossovers to block low bass from the new dash 3-1/2's, and the vibrating headliner "exciter" speaker thingies have to be killed if you have them (POS).

Maybe try something like this: http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forums/stereo-electronics-electrical/122575-2011-audio-mod.html

Not expensive. Make sure your wiring is in phase when you do the job (+ to + and - to -) on all speakers, AND the same for ALL speakers.

The 2011 head end unit is OK, and I am using it without an amp. If you have a pre-2011 head end unit, I cannot speak to that. Regardless of the year of your FJ, I think an upgraded head end unit in the dash would be a major plus, especially if you run a proper heavy gauge power and ground wire to it. Factory power wiring sux.

-FJ Florida-
 

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Aftermarket 6x9's are ridiculously power hungry, I would highly recommend an amp.
Mine are 91 db efficient, so your statement is not correct. Just check the efficiency rating for the speaker.

-FJ Florida-
 

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There just is not enough output out of the head unit to power those 6x9.
If you must insist on 6x9 versus a component set, or better off our A-Pillars.

You must get an amplifier.
Period.
 

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There just is not enough output out of the head unit to power those 6x9.
If you must insist on 6x9 versus a component set, or better off our A-Pillars.

You must get an amplifier.
Period.
Incorrect. Mine are 91 db efficient and are loud enough to cause hearing damage over time if I keep them cranked up. So your blanket statement about requiring an amplifier is not correct. Just check the efficiency rating for the speaker. Would I probably get more accurate sound at high volume and louder sound with an amplifier? Probably, depending on the quality of the amplifier and its wiring. Must I get one - "period" - as you said? No.

-FJ Florida-
 

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^^^ x2 I don't run mine off an amp. Would they sound better if I did? I'm sure they would. But they run just fine off deck power. :cheers:
 

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^^^ x2 I don't run mine off an amp. Would they sound better if I did? I'm sure they would. But they run just fine off deck power. :cheers:
Off Aftermarket deck like your Kenwood. which has cleaner power then oem.




As for 6x9 being efficient, great so your particular case you are happy with 91db rating... However There is a night and day difference with and without an amp. If someone was going through the effort of doing speakers, why not get the best sound out of those speakers with an amp. I still say amp is a must. You are leaving so much on the table by not doing an amp.


99.9 % off the time when my customers upgrade to an amp after just doing speakers comments are like "why didn't I do this the first time" Sound detail and volume will be unmatched versus running an oem headunit and even with an aftermarket head unit.

Providing you do not use a crappy amp.

If you are happy with the setup you have that is great. You propably will be much happier with an amp.
 

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Mine are 91 db efficient, so your statement is not correct. Just check the efficiency rating for the speaker.

-FJ Florida-
I would love to hear your opinion as to why an amp would not make aftermarket 6x9's sound better.

Aftermarket 6x9's generally need 50-100 watts of power to sound there best.

If the speakers are under powered, db sensitivity, is all but void of circumstance.

However, we are all entitled to our opinions, and my opinion is that I would not want you setting up my sound system. :cheers:

Oh yeah, MECP certification from the installers institute, 1995 (the principles are still the same)
 

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I would love to hear your opinion as to why an amp would not make aftermarket 6x9's sound better.
That's not what I said. I said it's not "required - period" as in the post.

Aftermarket 6x9's generally need 50-100 watts of power to sound there best.
Please justify that statement with physics. 91 decibels at 1 watt at one meter definitely does not require 100 watts unless you are determined to damage your hearing. See next point below.

If the speakers are under powered, db sensitivity, is all but void of circumstance.
Please justify that statement with physics. Sensitivity does not change based on the amount of power provided. They don't somehow become more or less effcient based on how much power you provide. 91 decibels at 1 watt at one meter does not change at 10 watts or 100 watts. 10 watts into 91 db efficiency = 101 db. That's simple physics. You can learn more (and get your proof) here:

Relationship Between Watts and dBs — Reviews and News from Audioholics

Oh yeah, MECP certification from the installers institute, 1995 (the principles are still the same)
OK, don't take this next one too personally. I don't intend to make anyone mad, or flame, or insult. I am just stating my qualifications, as you stated yours, for comparison purposes.

Me: 30 years of audio engineering experience and over 20 years of extreme hi-fi experience (I reengineered the circuitry in my tube amplifier and wired the new circuitry with point to point pure silver wire and silver solder). Three years of college-level physics and seven semesters of college level mathematics to understand it all. A certification doesn't mean you understand physics and engineering, but an honors average with a diploma from a top 20 university combined with 30 years of experience does. I also have read (and understand) an extensive number of white papers regarding audio engineering from engineering powerhouses like Paul W. Klipsch, Matthew Polk, and Amar Bose (even if his speakers are for bozos). Go read this: Amazon.com: Handbook for Sound Engineers, Fourth Edition (9780240809694): Glen Ballou: Books ... I have. A good read at 1808 pages. Don't work against physics, work with it.

-FJ Florida-
 

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I would love to hear your opinion as to why an amp would not make aftermarket 6x9's sound better.

Aftermarket 6x9's generally need 50-100 watts of power to sound there best.

If the speakers are under powered, db sensitivity, is all but void of circumstance.

However, we are all entitled to our opinions, and my opinion is that I would not want you setting up my sound system. :cheers:

Oh yeah, MECP certification from the installers institute, 1995 (the principles are still the same)
I have my advanced mecp. Oh well. Experience is what matters. There is nothing on a 200 question test that can be substituted for experience.

Like nazar said, there is a night and day difference between using a stock/aftermarket head unit power vs decent amplifier power.

With head unit power you are handicapping your speakers. Besides the point, clipping kills speakers, not good clean power. I run a Zapco 9.0 on a pair of dd 2510s. The pair asks for 1500w rms. I'm giving them way more than that. No blown speakers. With lower power I wouldn't be happy with the volume. I would be turning it up to the volume I wanted and clipping the signal. Square waves resulting from underpowering leads to a stinky death of all voice coils.
 

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Everyones ears are different and everyone likes different sounds and music its part of being human. This bickering is funny because what it comes down to is what makes the INDIVIDUAL happy. Get over yourselves and MAKE IT YOUR OWN:)

Fun fact: The two body parts that never stop growing are the ear and nose which sucks for the Male Ego:)
 

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Like nazar said, there is a night and day difference between using a stock/aftermarket head unit power vs decent amplifier power.
Maybe, maybe not. I've done it both ways. A good head end unit with discrete output devices vs. an IC-based amp with a low bias to squeeze out more power ... hmmmmmm. Of course, a properly wired, high quality, high power amplifier with discrete output devices that are biased up to class A will give you more volume and some improvement in quality at low volume. Having done it both ways, I can't agree with the blanket "night and day" statement. A lot of factors are in play. Wire that amp poorly, and you might as well be using a well wired high end in dash unit.

... asks for 1500w rms ... With lower power I wouldn't be happy with the volume. I would be turning it up to the volume I wanted and clipping the signal. Square waves resulting from underpowering leads to a stinky death of all voice coils.
And that much volume leads to death of hearing.

I can hit 98 or maybe 99 db at the driver's listening position at clipping, and a jackhammer at 2 meters is not far off at 100 db. Hearing damage can be sustained at 90 db (some say as low as 85 db with prolonged exposure).

No thanks. I enjoy the music too much to lose my high frequency hearing, or worse, need hearing aids later in life. High requency hearing goes first, so then expensive tweeters become irrelevant.

-FJ Florida-
 

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Everyones ears are different and everyone likes different sounds and music its part of being human. This bickering is funny because what it comes down to is what makes the INDIVIDUAL happy. Get over yourselves and MAKE IT YOUR OWN:)

Fun fact: The two body parts that never stop growing are the ear and nose which sucks for the Male Ego:)
Funny biology fact there.

Personally, I like reasonably accurate sound, and that's what makes me happy. That means I want to hear what is actually on that CD (notice I didn't say MP3). Sometimes the sound stinks because of a bad recording, but when it is a good reference quality recording, it is a priceless "you are there" experience.

For people who want plain old loud, or bass boom from a mile away, or sizzling tweeters searing your ears, I say more power too you (pun intended :lol:) ... didn't we already discuss accuracy vs personal preference in another thread? Yes, we did somewhere not too long ago. Some will understand the physics and some will not. Some will deliberately decide not to be accurate because they don't like accurate.

For anyone who wants to pursue accurate, follow the physics. For anyone who does not understand the physics, ask. That's why we all participate in a forum. If I have offended anyone here, I apologize, sincerely. That's not my intention. My intention is to provide correct information to help those who want to learn and achieve their goals.

-FJ Florida-
 

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Mine are 91 db efficient, so your statement is not correct. Just check the efficiency rating for the speaker.

-FJ Florida-
Is that sensitivity or efficiency?
Isn't sensitivity (which is actually how much sound it makes given 1 W at 1 meter, typically) usually measured at a specific frequency? AFAIK, it's usually a pretty good indicator of mid and high frequency response, but not so much in terms of lower frequencies. So, with 1 W, a set of aftermarket 6x9s, which usually also have tweeters in them, can make way more highs and mids than an oem paper speaker, but those big drivers are usually a bit heavier than the paper, so if the impedance is the same as OEM, it only makes sense that it will take more power to move a heaver speaker (even if the overall speaker sensitivity rating may be higher because of whatever frequency they measured it at)

Unless you overlay the frequency response of both speakers on each other, I don't think you can take a blanket rating and say "This speaker will be "louder" and sound better than the other one cause of this rating. It'd be like saying the FJ is faster than a Lotus Exige because it has more horsepower.
 
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