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The UDR kit has every part you need. You may want some spare zipties in case you ever want to pull the pump out again later. Just measure the ones in the kit and buy the same ones off Amazon. Done. Now you have spares for later.

If the tank is nearly empty when you do your work, you don't really need the lift, especially if you have a buddy to help with that part. Getting it out does need some jack stands but good ones from Northern Tool aren't too expensive, will last a lifetime and if you're going to be doing your own work then you will need them again. It's a good investment
Thank you again! I am getting excited for this project. I did come up with two more questions. First I was curious why you needed a dremel to modify the pump housing? What exactly needed to be done? Second, If I decide to go through the floor instead of pulling the tank, will that impact my ability to mount the new external filter? Are there any lines that I wont be able to run if I don't pull the tank out completely or is all of the filter work away from the tank and closer to the frame rail? I may decide to just pull the tank if I can muster the confidence and time. Cutting through the top just seems so much faster. It turns out that method does not leave a hole in the floor since they only cut 3 sides of the square and then folded it back. This way the flap can be bolted back down to the cross member w/ self drilling screws. Pretty neat little hack IMO.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
The Dremel is to cut small notches in the OEM plastic fuel pump housing so you can slip the zip tie in,.around the new pump and back out. It doesn't matter how you get to the pump for the fuel filter mount, the new filter is fitted up by the quick disconnect fittings in the file lines located under driver's seat near the frame rails.
 

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I would do the Underdog Racing replacement pump and filter mod. You end up with a easily replaced fuel filter that's out side the tank on the frame rails and the filter can be sourced from Napa easily.

The OEM setup doesn't really have a filter per se, there is a mesh bag filter at the bottom of the OEM pump and that's it. Yes with the aftermarket solution you end up zip tying an universal style pump to the OEM housing but it's a simple thing to do and as I mentioned above, if you pick up some spare stainless zip ties ahead of
it won't ever be an issue if you need to dive into the pump assembly again.

I like the idea of a larger opening to service things from the top but not at the expense of having a large hole open to the outside though. Don't need another way for bugs and critters to get inside the cabin. Can't imagine the noise, dust, etc. is nice either. If someone was handy with some simple sheet metal fabrication it would probably be pretty easy to craft a new removable panel to cover the larger access opening and that would be something I would want to do if I went that route.

Good luck! Either way you go it's a pretty easy thing to do. Some of the OEM line connections are finicky but a shot of wd40 seems to make them easier to work with.

Thank you for all your posts and replies on this. I finally was able to get the pump and filter in and I'm going to attack the project tomorrow. After reviewing the UDR instructions everything seems fairly straight forward. I also got the Deutschwerks pump and wanted to ask about the clip for the attached filter/strainer. Is it the small round pin that looks like a locknut washer? I attached a photo as well. My pump came in a box that had previously been open so I want to make sure I am not missing any parts.

1118925
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Yup that's it! Use a closely fitting socket and press that onto the stud to capture the strainer
 
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