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Discussion Starter #21
Is there any particular reason why you didn't miter/notch the square tubing so there aren't open ends?
Just decided to use caps. They are on order. They are hard to get up here in Maine. Pics to come.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
After installation, I noticed I could have put on some small "wings" to widen the front portion a bit. Might consider a retrofit.

The area under the platform where the seat was makes a decent storage space for flat stuff like maps, etc. But a sheet metal drop box would be cool. The platform inserts could for sure be made to hinge and enable storage underneath.
 

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My Weimeraner was a mess today and finally gave up staying in the back to curl tightly into the front seat (reclined). It was like she was on a freakin' slip-n-slide on that slick plastic in the back (seats down).
I bought a second all-weather cargo mat to put on the folded rear seatbacks to keep the wiemeraner and blue heeler from slipping. The second mat fits perfectly in front of the rear in it's normal position. It helped them gain a lot of traction and now it doesn't sound as bad as the claws scraping the hard plastic in turns.
 

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bight - I really like what you have done. If I didn't need to use the back seats on occasion, I would be going your direction.

But since I don't want to remove the seat backs, I've got a slightly different solution. If you remove the seat bottoms, which is a matter of two bolts per side, you can gain a substantial amount of room. Just enough that a 6' person can lay down. The problem is that hump that steps up once the seat backs are layed forward.

I don't want to get into detail without pictures, but I used one 4x8 sheet of 3/4" plywood to make a mini storage area that compensates for the "hump" while having enough material left over to create a bed.

That was a pretty vague teaser. I just didn't want this thread to die. I promise to be back with pictures.

Travis
 

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Discussion Starter #26
It seems no solution will suit everyone except Toyota building it with a flat bed and a 1 piece bolt in seat. I had this in a Dodge Raider and it was as close to perfect as you can get. The back of the seat folded down, then you could also fold the entire unit forward, and if you chose you could easily remove the whole seat and have a flat deck. I know other vehicles have this feature. Why not the FJ???? end of rant.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Sivart, please post pics when convenient. There have been several other great ideas for this project. It would be nice to get everyones ideas on one thread. I had a hard time searching for some of them.
 

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any pics of the completed job? looks great so far.
 

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I agree, more pics!! Looks great!
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Still contemplating how I am going to build the divider. I am in the process of moving (and will have a much bigger shop area!) and will try to finish in the next couple weeks. I did get some quick release pins I plan to use to hold the divider in place at the bottom. That way the divider is removable. I am still trying to figure out a simple, clean way to support the divider at the top or sides. I am not looking for the top/side support to be overly strong, but at least be able to stop the bending forward of the divider if cargo shifts. Any ideas here would be helpful.

I am also working on the pad design. I am thinking a 2 piece deal that attaches together with velcro. There will be 2 pads, one for the rear area behind the divider and one for the front area. There will be a flap that will go under the divider to connect the two together and then velcro on the bottom to connect the cushions down to the deck. Adhesive velcro strips on the deck (soft side). 2 or 3 inch foam covered in coated ballistic nylon.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
I am back in motion on this. I have had my cushions made (pics coming). Found a reliable cushion/upholstery place outside Augusta, ME to work with me on this. He led me to some cool "carbon fibre" look boat vinyl. It is super heavy duty and looks great. I found some grid for the dog divider at a scrapyard in NH and am going to get some small square tubing for the outer frame this weekend. Turns out the grid should work well for hanging molle/packs etc on also. Will also be considering ways to build a hanging box under the front section. As is it is great for sleeping!
 

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Nice work. Job well done!

I have no skillz to work on something like this, I guess, I will take my time to setup my tent.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Well after some time I have finally completed the divider project and been able to get to shooting some pics. I ended up finding an excellent piece of grid at a New Hampshire scrapyard and it worked out perfectly. I got some 1/2 inch square tubing, drilled holes along one side to mate up with each of the grid rods (only on the ends, not the top and bottom) for them to recess in, so I would only have to tack weld along the top and bottom and the sides would be held nicely by the grid rods. A little extra work that I thought would be a big challenge because the drilled holes need to be pretty precise, but it turned out to be pretty easy.
The next challenge was securing the grid at the bottom and top and making it removable. The bottom was easy and is set up so it is removable by just removing 4 bolts. I poked around the forum and found somewhere mention about the holes up above the back door window. So I started poking around, figured out how to get the cover off, removed the existing bolt, got the cover retainer out and put the bolt back in. I altered a large rubber stopper with nice stainless bolts, nuts and washers and made up a friction support. All I really wanted was some support to keep the divider from tilting forward (though I do not think it would unsupported unless there was lots of weight, high up to go forward in an impact). This has worked out very well.
The grid works fantastically to keep the pups in the back and works with molle/straps, etc to secure bags and items to it. I will be looking to get some quick fists or something similar to mount fire extinguisher, shovel, etc. I may try to rig some bracket for seatbelts to go back in. I wouldn't take riders any real distance but for short hops it would work fine.

Thanks for taking a look.
 

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This by far one of the best home mods I have seen,you did a great job! How about a pic of the rescue dog trying it out. Sorry to ask but I'm a dog nut.
 

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Well after some time I have finally completed the divider project and been able to get to shooting some pics. [snip] The grid works fantastically to keep the pups in the back and works with molle/straps, etc to secure bags and items to it.


This is a fantastic setup. I really like the grid. I need to keep my back seats functional so can't do a full setup, but would love to see a grid like this in Springtail Solutions pet barrier. The one they use now is too dense and visually restrictive for me.
 

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It is important to have a six sided 14 mm socket for this!

The removal began by removing the bolts below the front edge of the rear seat bottom. This is pretty straightforward.

View attachment 12343



Then with an open end wrench I removed the bolts on both ends of the seats that are attached to the sides of the passenger compartment. This can be a slow process because it is tough to get much rotation with the wrench. A closed end ratchet metric wrench wold be the thing to use (I didn't have one)
Actually I found an open end to be much quicker - and you're right a 14mm. I also discovered if you loosen the passenger side first - a few turns. Then go to the driver's side rear seat and remove that bolt completely. Then return to the passenger side to completely remove that bolt. There is more room on the Driver's side for some reason. As well - there is a small retainer washer on each bolt - to keep the bolt from separating from the seat mount. Nice to keep these on when storing the seat.

You must at some point remove the bolts holding the seatbelts in place. After doing this last, my suggestion is to do it first to be sure they can be removed. The passenger side belt is in the way during removal of other parts, so get it out of the way first.
Use a snipe (2 - 3 foot piece of steel tubing) on your socket wrench and it's like 'buttah' :). A 12" extension for your socket also helps as the bolts are recessed a bit.

Just my observations! :). Thank you for posting the removal instructions in the first place. I got the bottoms off and then the tie down hump and then couldn't figure out how the rear portions came off. Of course I was blinded by the generous amount of light flowing from the factory interior lights. :flame:. Those will be next on the list to improve.
 

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I used your pics and help for removing my rear seats when I took the rear side panels out to install sound deadening, wiring, speakers and dye the upper panels black.

Just a quick addition that everyone may find helpful if removing the rear seat backs.
It is a real pain to remove the side bolts, and even harder to get them back in!! After fighting with it for about 10 minutes, I decided to try to separate the seat from the hinges.
Simply pop off the plastic backs from the rear seat backs just like you would pop the door panels. Start at the bottom, get your fingers under the panel and give a quick pull toward you. The fasteners will pop right off and the panel will come off the seat. Each rear seat back has two 14mm bolts that hold it to the hinge mechanism. Just remove these and the seat backs come right out giving easy access to the bolt that holds the hinge to the side of the vehicle. If you are smart, you will do this first, and then not even have to remove the hinge from the side...
Sorry for no pics. I ma not good at remembering to bring the camera in the garage with me.
 
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