Toyota FJ Cruiser Forum banner

1 - 20 of 22 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
106 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Ok, so I have added my name to the list at Rough Country concerning the 6" lift. I was told by "Joey" at RC, that no welding or cutting would be needed to install the lift or to add 35" tires.

Can you please share anything about lifting your FJ that you found out "later" that would have been good info up front.

Should I go with a 6" lift or just stick with a 3" lift, what's the biggest tire with just the lift that will fit on a 6" or 3" lift. I am some what new to this and only now "learning about trucks", so I don't have the Vocabulary yet, but I'm willing to learn.

I know I want to make my truck a bit more "off-road" friendly, i make pretty good money and I'm looking for something "constructive" to do with my time.

Someone in another forum mentioned having to do a "body cut" in order to use the 35's, is this true with a 6" lift?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,346 Posts
.

Should I go with a 6" lift or just stick with a 3" lift, what's the biggest tire with just the lift that will fit on a 6" or 3" lift. I am some what new to this and only now "learning about trucks", so I don't have the Vocabulary yet, but I'm willing to learn.

I know I want to make my truck a bit more "off-road" friendly, i make pretty good money and I'm looking for something "constructive" to do with my time.

?


Well since you asked :) I'm not knocking the 6in kit but IMO and IME People that take there trucks off road and use them seem to do better with the adjustable coil over style lift. I won't say which one I prefer because I also sell them. But going with any of the top 3 coil over 3in lifts is a better approach to building a complete and useable off road vehicle. The 6in kits are nice for cruising the malls and looking good at the car show, if that is what you are into by all means do it. But you did mention off road.

Good luck with your choice.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
1,463 Posts
Well since you asked :) I'm not knocking the 6in kit but IMO and IME People that take there trucks off road and use them seem to do better with the adjustable coil over style lift. I won't say which one I prefer because I also sell them. But going with any of the top 3 coil over 3in lifts is a better approach to building a complete and useable off road vehicle. The 6in kits are nice for cruising the malls and looking good at the car show, if that is what you are into by all means do it. But you did mention off road.

Good luck with your choice.
cruising the malls? How in the hell can you even get INTO a mall parking area with a 6" lift? Mall cruiser my ass lol
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,304 Posts
Jason Demello above is being very nice and modest-he knows more about suspension and offroading than most of the people on this forum combined.
Heed his advice.
BTY, I got my front suspension from him and it is awesome-I run forrest roads a lot with my off roading buddys. They are always amazed at how my rig handles. They always give me lead since their rigs can't keep my pace. I have had no regrets.

Demello Offroad
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
1,463 Posts
Jason Demello above is being very nice and modest-he knows more about suspension and offroading than most of the people on this forum combined.
Heed his advice.
BTY, I got my front suspension from him and it is awesome-I run forrest roads a lot with my off roading buddys. They are always amazed at how my rig handles. They always give me lead since their rigs can't keep my pace. I have had no regrets.

Demello Offroad
Oh I know. I'm just saying calling something that has a 6" lift a "mall-crusier" doesn't really make sense to me, normally the mall cruiser vehicles that I see, (Hummers, FJ 2WD etc) are never lifted, or at times, lowered. 6" lift would let you clear obstacles that you couldn't clear with a 3" lift since the center of gravity is much taller
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
449 Posts
some people are running 35's with a 3 inch ( like me ) so who knows what you can run with a 6 im getting the rough country 6 when it becomes avail on the 18th and see what i can run maybe 37's ???
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
449 Posts
some people are running 35's with a 3 inch ( like me ) so who knows what you can run with a 6 im getting the rough country 6 when it becomes avail on the 18th and see what i can run maybe 37's ???
also i will be running adjustable coils with my 6 you only need 3.5 of lift from your coils and then drop brackets do the rest of the 6 in lift so i can still use my allpro coilovers and the 6 in from rough country 3 inch cant get over or be what i want little rocks at tellico make me sad so i want bigger and bigger it might work for you guys out in cali with large deserts but we wheel hard out here in the south
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
909 Posts
some people are running 35's with a 3 inch ( like me ) so who knows what you can run with a 6 im getting the rough country 6 when it becomes avail on the 18th and see what i can run maybe 37's ???

The guy I bought my OEM Steel wheels from put a 6" ProComp Lift and 35" ProComp XTreme MT's. I don't have the exact tire spec other than they were 35". It rubbed the body mount and control arm just going up a curb....... It also increased the clearance pretty dramatically just looking at it sitting next to my FJC with a 3" lift. Pro's and Con's.....

Beside the rubbing he also noted that regearing would be pretty necessary for the amount of power he had and lost with the lift and tires. He actually sounded like he regretted going up to a 6" lift.

Oh and 1 more note. I asked him "do you get a vibration in your steering wheel around 60 MPH?" He replied "Yup, how did you know that?" I told him it was Road Force Vibration and told him where/how to fix it.......Thanks Forum!!!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,824 Posts
Oh I know. I'm just saying calling something that has a 6" lift a "mall-crusier" doesn't really make sense to me, normally the mall cruiser vehicles that I see, (Hummers, FJ 2WD etc) are never lifted, or at times, lowered. 6" lift would let you clear obstacles that you couldn't clear with a 3" lift since the center of gravity is much taller
The center of gravity of a rig with a 6" lift is much higher, although it has nothing to do with clearance and being able to clear obstacles. Center of gravity is defined as the point through which the resultant of gravitational forces on a body passes and from which the resultant force of attraction of the body on other bodies emanates. In a lot of cases the center of gravity can be assumed to be the same as the center of mass. A high center of gravity mainly affects handling through body roll and "tendency to tip".

The 6" lifts will keep you from rubbing your bumpers on steep transitions but they offer very little in increased clearance as there are crossmembers that hang down as low as the stock diff height. I completely agree with Jason, 6" kits are mainly for looks, not function.

I recently installed my 3" OME kit and couldn't be happier. It's affordable looks great and out performs the stock suspension in all aspects IMO.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
106 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
ok, ok..... some what does "OEM" mean? So you would all recommend a 3" lift....??? I am really not crazy about "cutting" into my truck, so with ths 3" lift your referring to, what would be the most perferred tire size, for mountain road/trail riding and a "little" rock climbing. We want to run out to Moab next summer, this 3" lift wll allow us to have fun there?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
134 Posts
Steer clear of the 6" lifts unless you just want it to look nice. 3" is plenty good for IFS offroading. From going on many runs and seeing a truck or two with a 6" drop bracket lift they just don't flex as well imo.

You'll be able to tackle any moderate trail with a 3" lift, armor, a good spotter and experience.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
106 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
ok we need a page with the definitions of terms here:

IFS?
IMO?
OEM?

help me out guys...????
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
134 Posts
ok, ok..... some what does "OEM" mean? So you would all recommend a 3" lift....??? I am really not crazy about "cutting" into my truck, so with ths 3" lift your referring to, what would be the most perferred tire size, for mountain road/trail riding and a "little" rock climbing. We want to run out to Moab next summer, this 3" lift wll allow us to have fun there?
OME = Old Man Emu lift. It's a pretty popular lift kit sold via ARB.
IFS = Independant Front Suspenion
IMO = In My Opinion

3" lift will allow you to do all that you described. A 33" tire is what most run (285/75/16 is a pretty popular choice). Some have to do the body mount chop and some don't.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,137 Posts
it might work for you guys out in cali with large deserts but we wheel hard out here in the south
Ya, everyone knows that Backdoor at the Hammers is super easy. :rolleyes:

I agree with Jason....go with a coilover kit, not a drop kit if you plan to keep it IFS.

You did say you were making good money though......how much offroading do you wanna do? ;) If a lot is your answer and you got the $$$ to blow, you may have overlooked much better alternatives.

Sean
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
106 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
ok so you say some have to do a "body chop, and some don't" what deterines the ("some")? If were all driving the same truck and running the same tires, hy would it differ?

I have money to spend, but I also do film stuff and I'm a HUGE Mac geek, so all the "play areas" have to share the funds :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,137 Posts
B/c like just about every make, there can be as much as two inches of height difference in the same model....this is uncommon in Toyotas, but variances of up to an inch are fairly common. Most people just don't notice it.

However, the reason for the body mount chop for some vs. others is much more likely related to wheel backspacing, type, and brand as well as tire choice.

Keep in mind there can be a 10% difference between what's listed on the sidewall and the actual tire's height (mounted on the appropriate width rim at the max PSI) and still be considered legal by DOT standards. On a 30" tire....that's a 3" difference EITHER way. It could be as small as 27" and as big as 33". Most companies don't go that far with the misrepresentation, but most are not truly a 30" tire....most are usually undersized by about 2" in general. There are a few that are larger than advertised, but it's almost exclusively predominantly off road tires (some of the Swamper line is this way) and aren't really what you'd call "mainstream" tires.

HTH,
Sean

Oh, and HTH=hope this helps.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
909 Posts
B/c like just about every make, there can be as much as two inches of height difference in the same model....this is uncommon in Toyotas, but variances of up to an inch are fairly common. Most people just don't notice it.

However, the reason for the body mount chop for some vs. others is much more likely related to wheel backspacing, type, and brand as well as tire choice.

Keep in mind there can be a 10% difference between what's listed on the sidewall and the actual tire's height (mounted on the appropriate width rim at the max PSI) and still be considered legal by DOT standards. On a 30" tire....that's a 3" difference EITHER way. It could be as small as 27" and as big as 33". Most companies don't go that far with the misrepresentation, but most are not truly a 30" tire....most are usually undersized by about 2" in general. There are a few that are larger than advertised, but it's almost exclusively predominantly off road tires (some of the Swamper line is this way) and aren't really what you'd call "mainstream" tires.

HTH,
Sean

Oh, and HTH=hope this helps.


Well explained Sean! I had not seen the actual stats behind the tire size variances before. GTK = good to know.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
129 Posts
It is rare that I will ever counter an argument in here. To each his own. But some of the responses here are just aggravating and ultimately misleading - some even by people I respect. For all of those who think that an added 3 inches of lift over the coil-over lift is pointless for 'real' off-roading, you have obviously never wheeled any serious trails or you have different motivation ($$$) to your response. And as for the person who said something to the affect of "might be okay for you Cali guys, but we wheel hard here in the south"... Umm, does the name Rubicon mean anything to you? Check your atlas. Speaking of the Rubicon, I just got out of the springs through Loon Lake last week and I will tell you that although I made it with my 3 inch lift, I had to work 100 times harder than all the other lifted rigs to find a line that I would not high center my cross member (trans case, rocker panels, rear links and whatever else i find unavoidable). With a 6" lift, I could have adjusted my line after clearing the front diff without the worry of getting pitched sideways from a boulder contacting the middle underbody of my rig. I have made due with the 3" lift since putting it on in May '06, but I will soon be contributing pictures to the board of my 6" Mall Cruiser deep in the belly of spyder, coyote, cadillac and anywhere else I'll now be able to go without fear of ripping off my bumpers. The added clearance from 35" tires alone would have saved the poor little zerk fitting on my rear lower links. Anyway, not my intention to offend, but lets be honest here; there is a reason all of the rigs you see in competition have a pooh load of clearance - it's necessary.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,450 Posts
I've been to Moab twice since I got my FJ and with Donahoe coilovers in front, Toytec springs/Donahoe shocks in back, Goodyear 305/70/17 MT/R's (which are 34" tires) on factory steel wheels. I've done some of the hardest trails out there without incident. So, to answer your question, a 3" lift and slightly oversized tires will get you through pretty much anything you're likely to encounter in Moab (unless you really go looking).

Jim
 
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
Top