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Discussion Starter #1
Hello All,
Just bought my 07 about 2 weeks ago. The rear diff wouldn't lock up when I was purchasing so I got them to knock 1100 off. They offered to fix it for me and leave the price as is, but I figured if I could get it working, I'll take the cash (which of course will immediately get spent in mods).

Well my gamble is not paying off yet. I've tried turning in circles, going forward, reversing, etc. but I can't get the locker to engage.

Does anyone have any tricks I could use to get this sucker to engage before I have to replace it?

Thanks a bunch
 

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Its most likely the switch on the transfer case. Put it in Low & insure that all of the lights come on LL , VSC, ETC. IF they do not it is the low range switch on the T case. They are about 70$ and a PIMA to change. Look for the thread on this forum to disable the speed control & any speed rear locker. The Mod bypasses the switch & viola you have any speed locker, No speed control on your ATRAC & all of the electronic nannies go away with the push of the rear locker.
 

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Pull the clip off the E locker at the rear axle & check to see if you are getting voltage to the actuator.
 

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Drive in an "S" pattern, not a circle. (once you're in 4LO of course)
 

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Can you engage your ATRAC?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I don't have the switch for atrac, how would I know it engaged? I took her off road a couple weeks ago and in 4L I got vsc off, car with the skid lines, and the rapid clicking sound when I was getting stuck.
 

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The clicking should be ATRAC, but if you have no switch I dont think it could be...which maybe isnt good lol. I do not believe it comes 'engaged' until you install the switch. Honestly, that is a question I am unsure of..
 

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Ok so according to this thread http://http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forums/transmissions-transfer-cases-traction-aids/6254-making-sense-trac-auto-lsd-atrac-vsc-rear-diff-lock.html

I'm thinking the clicking is the TRACtion control that was applying brakes once I started slipping (come to think the clicking could be felt on the brake pedal). I guess I don't have ATRAC on my truck.
Sounds like you were in 4Hi not 4Lo... there should be no traction control or vehicle stability control enabled once you are in 4Lo. And since you don't have the ATRAC button we know that it was not activated.

Are you sure you are in 4Lo? If for some reason you were in 4Hi and thought you were in 4Lo, that would definitely give you some issues in trying to activate the locker.
 

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Well it was a couple weeks ago, but I''m 99% positive I was in lo.
Try it again and be 100% sure... it might be a "doh!" moment and everything is fine! :grin
(hopefully anyway!)
:cheers:
 

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i want to be sure that i understand, the 4wd light stays on green and not blinking when in 4wd? the rear diff lamp is red and blinking? you are stopped when activating the rear diff lock switch? ( i realize the manual states under 5mph)


first disconnect the plug at the rear diff and see if its getting power. if it is then its the rear diff. if not then i would see if the 4wd lo switch is gummed up.
move the 4wd lever from 4lo to 4 high rapidly several times not fixed step 2
remove 4wd lo switch, squeeze, check continuity reinstall or replace depending on outcome.

the fj must be driven in 4wd monthly or things get gummed up.

the only clicking i've ever heard was from behind the glovebox just prior to the 4wd computer going bad.

also get the atrac switch and install it.

just my .02

lmk the what you find out.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks for all of the responses fellas.

I've got a list of things to work on this weekend. I'll report back with my findings.
 

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btw, It's good to activate the locker every month or so also. Let it blink until it activates, it might take a few minutes or an hour.
 

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tools needed:
small bladed screwdriver
3/8 drive 1 1/16 crows foot
3/8 drive rachet
ohm meter


if it turns out the 4 lo switch needs to be removed do the research to get idea however you don't need to drop the t-case. you can't get access by removing the center console so, get it on ramps, get on your creeper and use the screwdriver to separate the wiring connector from the switch and the crows foot to loosen the switch. don't be timid to get on it and wear gloves. you will feel it break free then loosen the rest of the way by hand.
my hands are kinda big so i removed the heat shield first.
when you have the switch out just push/release the ball detent and check continuity. mine was so gummed up that when i pushed it i heard/felt it pop.
as it turned out the switch checked good however i had to replace the 4wd ecu. i also did the ADD solder mod for good measure
good posts on the wiring for the ecu and the switches

http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forums/transmissions-transfer-cases-traction-aids/432729-autopsy-failed-4low-xfer-case-switch-non-op-diff-lock.html

http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forums/transmissions-transfer-cases-traction-aids/169499-4wd-inop-constant-flashing-4wd-light.html.

i can not stress the importance of using the 4wd monthly to keep everything running right.

if you run into problems/questions, pm me.
 

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If you were hearing clicking noises, I'll second what winterpeg said about you actually being in 4lo. Did you put your vehicle in neutral before switching from 4hi to 4lo? How fast could you go? If you were in 4 lo, top speed is maybe 25ish mph


Also, you want to be moving slowly. If you stop and wait for it to engage, there is a good chance it never will.
 
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