[Big_John]

If I install 35" tires on stock suspension, is there an issue with gearing and optimal efficiencies?

Do I need a lift to do 35's?

thanks.....

 

[NyNomad]

Depending on how and where you daily drive in conjunction with your offroading habits.. Stock suspension more than likely will need to be upgraded to 3in lift and a Body Mount Chop(BMC) will for sure be needed.. Gearing, plenty of threads on here about gearing.... Do you NEED 35's?, No

 

[Boabrother4]

If you still want to take corners there might be issues. Up and down the driveway, no worries.

 

[FJX2000]

Check out all of the sticky threads that show up first in this wheels and tires section of the forum. There is PLENTY of information on the forums about fitting 35s, but according to this thread, if you want to fit big tires, the basic rule is: keep them as close to the UCA without rubbing as you can. Fitting 35" tires on the FJ is difficult for a few reasons. Body mount chop is 100% necessary. And aftermarket upper control arms are not 100% necessary but make life a lot easier. And lifting the FJ is also a must.

For me to fit 35s with my specific wheel, the TRD 17x7" wheel, this is my setup. I have a 3" lift and 1.25" wheels spacers. If my wheels had different backspacing I wouldn't need wheel spacers but without spacers I rub on my upper control arms at full lock, even with them being tubular aftermarket Total Chaos upper control arms. I also have a body mount chop not only because of the larger tires but also because of the wheel spacers, both of which make it more likely to experience rubbing at the body mount. I actually already had a BMC (body mount chop) when I was running 33" tires with wheel spacers and had to chop the body mount even MORE to get the 35s to rub less. And even then I still had to hammer some spots out of the way and I eventually installed a 1/2" body lift to make it even less likely that I would rub somewhere. And even with all that, I also have to ensure my alignment is done so the castor is pushed all the way forward to around +4 degrees in order to help avoid rubbing even more.

So it has taken a lot of work to get my 35s to fit without rubbing. So if you go this route, good luck. And that is just what I've done to avoid rubbing and be able to still off-road without chewing up my tires. Some folks have too noticeable of a power drop at the pedal from the larger tires and want that "stock feeling" back, so they swap out the differential gears with something with a better gear ratio like 4.56 or 4.88 gears. Or they give their FJ a power boost with a supercharger.

 

[hikeswithdogs]

Yea plan to do A LOT of work

To do it properly at minimum
Body Mount Chop
After Market Upper Control Arms
Longer rear Panhard Bar+upper\lower rear links
2-3" lift
Re-gear if automatic transmission

Even 285\17's (33") will likely rub without a body mount chop

Just my 0.02$ Good luck!

 

[monflores11]

Check out all of the sticky threads that show up first in this wheels and tires section of the forum. There is PLENTY of information on the forums about fitting 35s, but according to this thread, if you want to fit big tires, the basic rule is: keep them as close to the UCA without rubbing as you can. Fitting 35" tires on the FJ is difficult for a few reasons. Body mount chop is 100% necessary. And aftermarket upper control arms are not 100% necessary but make life a lot easier. And lifting the FJ is also a must.

For me to fit 35s with my specific wheel, the TRD 17x7" wheel, this is my setup. I have a 3" lift and 1.25" wheels spacers. If my wheels had different backspacing I wouldn't need wheel spacers but without spacers I rub on my upper control arms at full lock, even with them being tubular aftermarket Total Chaos upper control arms. I also have a body mount chop not only because of the larger tires but also because of the wheel spacers, both of which make it more likely to experience rubbing at the body mount. I actually already had a BMC (body mount chop) when I was running 33" tires with wheel spacers and had to chop the body mount even MORE to get the 35s to rub less. And even then I still had to hammer some spots out of the way and I eventually installed a 1/2" body lift to make it even less likely that I would rub somewhere. And even with all that, I also have to ensure my alignment is done so the castor is pushed all the way forward to around +4 degrees in order to help avoid rubbing even more.

So it has taken a lot of work to get my 35s to fit without rubbing. So if you go this route, good luck. And that is just what I've done to avoid rubbing and be able to still off-road without chewing up my tires. Some folks have too noticeable of a power drop at the pedal from the larger tires and want that "stock feeling" back, so they swap out the differential gears with something with a better gear ratio like 4.56 or 4.88 gears. Or they give their FJ a power boost with a supercharger.

The best summary for those deciding to go 35's. In addition to aggressive BMC and some hammering, folding/cutting the pinch weld is necessary, folding & cutting too of the fender (some remove them entirely), removal of mud flaps, etc. I have done what Hayden did and all of the above (except removing the flares), but I still have some body rub, lol.

 

[hikeswithdogs]

The best summary for those deciding to go 35's. In addition to aggressive BMC and some hammering, folding/cutting the pinch weld is necessary, folding & cutting too of the fender (some remove them entirely), removal of mud flaps, etc. I have done what Hayden did and all of the above (except removing the flares), but I still have some body rub, lol.

This is why I'm going with 285\75\17 little smaller(34ish) but should hopefully fit without removing all fenders\flap business, I got 285\70\17 to fit with just a BMC

 

[SenseiSmash]

This is why I'm going with 285\75\17 little smaller(34ish) but should hopefully fit without removing all fenders\flap business, I got 285\70\17 to fit with just a BMC

I see people say they needed a BMC for 285/70/17 to work however thats what I run and no BMC been on for a year and never rubbed but i haven't been off road heavily with these yet just fields etc

 

[Sparky of NWO]

I see people say they needed a BMC for 285/70/17 to work however thats what I run and no BMC been on for a year and never rubbed but i haven't been off road heavily with these yet just fields etc

Exactly!

 

[hikeswithdogs]

I see people say they needed a BMC for 285/70/17 to work however thats what I run and no BMC been on for a year and never rubbed but i haven't been off road heavily with these yet just fields etc

I think it'll vary tire by tire as its so close, with my Good Year Duratrack 285's I could hear them rubbing against the rubber body mount covers(post BMC) at full lock in parking lots but they are pretty aggressive for AT's tires with big side lugs.

 

[SenseiSmash]

I think it'll vary tire by tire as its so close, with my Good Year Duratrack 285's I could hear them rubbing against the rubber body mount covers(post BMC) at full lock in parking lots but they are pretty aggressive for AT's tires with big side lugs.

I have 1.25" spacers in waiting to put in until I get my OME 3 inch lift. Will I more than likely need BMC to run spacers?
If so ill do that when I rustproof the frame this spring.

 

[hikeswithdogs]

I have 1.25" spacers in waiting to put in until I get my OME 3 inch lift. Will I more than likely need BMC to run spacers?
If so ill do that when I rustproof the frame this spring.

That is a good question, I don't know jack about spacers besides they could push the tire out(vs stock) which could in theory aggravate the rubbing?

 

[therealmattryun]

I run 35x12.5 on 0 offset 17x8.5’s.

The only lift I have is my Bilstein 5100’s with stock springs set to level the truck. I do have TC upper control arms, which help with alignment specs but to be honest i havent even maxed my caster yet.

I did remove my flares and mud flaps, but I’ve seen people who still have those with 35’s.

BMC is a must, and hammering back the pinch welds. I do still rub on my firewall at certain angles as well, but nothing terrible for DD/mild trail use.

Gearing is going to be the big cost here. Sure you can drive around as-is but even in a relatively flat environment like where I’m at, it sucks. Going up a steep incline can suck, and 0-60 takes a good bit more time now (since i still am on stock gears).

Mileage is going to suck regardless, you’re going to a bigger/heavier tire. I get about 13.5-14mpg calculated on stock gears right now. Looking at 200 miles to a tank. Moving to a set of 4.56s would help recoup some of those lost mpgs and a lot of the loss of power.

Looks like there’s a lot of good info both in the other comments here and elsewhere on the forum. I definitely think there’s a “right” way to do 35’s, and a “well it works” way. I’d consider mine more of the latter.

 

[Big_John]

guess I will go with 285/70r17's..... and stay stock.

.....

 

[therealmattryun]

guess I will go with 285/70r17's..... and stay stock.

.....

I still needed a cab mount chop when I went 285/70r17, something to look out for.

 

[Big_John]

Picked up the FJ today. She has some fresh Valvoline in her, so I only changed the differentials and transfer case gear oil. I went with SuperTech synthetic, as I am using that as a flush for 1,500 miles and then I will dump it and pour in either Mobil 1 or Amsoil.

I did take her out to some BLM land and crawled around some terrain in 4x4 Low and wow this dude can climb like a mountain goat.

Interesting observation. I had to run some I70 today and at 80mph, it is only turning slightly above 2k RPM's. For traveling, I would think 35's would keep the transmission in an awkward place where might shift too much.

Now I am actually thinking to stay with 265/70r17's, but get a more aggressive, lug tread.

But... is anyone running 255/80r17's? I had those on a Ram 1500 and loved them.