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Hardwired Cobra, TomTom One LE

4188 Views 25 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  LandCruiserSteve
3
I hardwired my Cobra, and my TomTom to the fuse block using fuse taps and a radio shack 12V mount. (Same as seen in the Additional 12V mod already here in the forums).

Pics as follows:




Next, the iPod dock charger, and 1.8 mm audio will have to be hidden away.
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I am looking to do this to my TomTom Go 720. Do you mind adding some more detail to the install for the electronically inept???
You might want to change that tap to an Add-A-Circuit so that your units will be safely fused.
I am looking to do this to my TomTom Go 720. Do you mind adding some more detail to the install for the electronically inept???
Layton,

If you need help with that, the next time we get together I can help you wire that up. It won't take long.
2
You might want to change that tap to an Add-A-Circuit so that your units will be safely fused.
The cobra has a built in fuse, I kept the existing DC adapter, which already has a fuse. I just used this:


I am looking to do this to my TomTom Go 720. Do you mind adding some more detail to the install for the electronically inept???
Get fuse taps, and the Radioshack DC adapters shown above.
Strip the wires, and solder a fuse tap on the positive end. (Red)

Insert fuse tap, attach ground.
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Layton,

If you need help with that, the next time we get together I can help you wire that up. It won't take long.
HEY.OH count me in, just tell me what parts to pick up before the meet. I am thinking about mounting it on the windshield mirror mount, so gonna run it along the headliner.
Not a problem. I like the way the OP has done it without having to cut off the OEM cig plug. That makes it easy but it may not work for you if you are going to mount it up on the windshield.....we may not be able to hide all the bulky stuff. That is still not a problem. You will just need an Add-a-circuit (which is just like the OP's wire tap but has a fuse in it) and some 18ga or 16ga wire. Just compare the OEM wiring and get the same size. I have plenty of crimp connectors and the crimp tool....you just have to remind me to bring them. :roller:
The cobra has a built in fuse, I kept the existing DC adapter, which already has a fuse. I just used this:


Get fuse taps, and the Radioshack DC adapters shown above.
Strip the wires, and solder a fuse tap on the positive end. (Red)

Insert fuse tap, attach ground.
Understood. Yes, the DC adapter's fuse will protect your GPS and radar detector. However, I was referring to the power source (wiring) itself coming from the fuse panel to your DC adapter.

If there's no protection there and a short-circuit occurs between the fuse panel and the DC adapter, the DC adapter's fuse won't protect the rest of your FJ's downstream electrical system from severe damage and/or possible fire.

Just a suggestion . . . .
No clue what you guys are talking about but I want to learn! :cheers: What is that red wire attached to other than the fuse panel? Thanks :rocker:
I did kinda the same, I'd suggest one thing to make it cleaner on the tomtom. you can pop the silver vent thing off by pulling it forward then pop the speaker cover and you can run the wire only showing about 2 inches right at the base of the windshield.
I'd suggest one thing to make it cleaner on the tomtom. you can pop the silver vent thing off by pulling it forward then pop the speaker cover and you can run the wire only showing about 2 inches right at the base of the windshield.
Better yet, you could remove the A-pillar cover to hide both wires (to the Tom-Tom and Cobra).

http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/foru...-door-panels-removal-instructions-w-pics.html

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also an excellent suggestion.
Understood. Yes, the DC adapter's fuse will protect your GPS and radar detector. However, I was referring to the power source (wiring) itself coming from the fuse panel to your DC adapter.

If there's no protection there and a short-circuit occurs between the fuse panel and the DC adapter, the DC adapter's fuse won't protect the rest of your FJ's downstream electrical system from severe damage and/or possible fire.

Just a suggestion . . . .
Ahh, I see what you mean. I'll definitely do that this weekend.
Question = can I do the following:
1) cut my tom tom power cord before the cig adapter
2) attach tom tom cig cord (that i cut) to Add-A-Circuit
3) plug in Add-A-Circuit plug to fuse panel


I'm not good with electrical work at all so just wondering if anyone can lend a hand before i start chopping wires. :ninja:
Question = can I do the following:
1) cut my tom tom power cord before the cig adapter
2) attach tom tom cig cord (that i cut) to Add-A-Circuit
3) plug in Add-A-Circuit plug to fuse panel
Yes to all. Matter of fact, if you choose to do so (which I would recommend), connect your Add-A-Circuit to a "switched" circuit on your fuse panel so that your Tom-Tom automatically turns off and on with the ignition (to prevent accidental battery drain).

This particular fuse slot is not only "switched," but it's also not being used by any other component in the FJ.



Just be mindful of your power cord's polarity (+ and -), and be sure to ground the negative (-) side. Use the manufacturer's recommended fuse size in the Add-A-Circuit. And, use quality automotive electrical crimp connectors.
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Thank you very much! As for the "switched" slot how would I know which fuse slot is switched? Is there an online diagram? Thanks again!

Yes to all. Matter of fact, if you choose to do so (which I would recommend), connect your Add-A-Circuit to a "switched" circuit on your fuse panel so that your Tom-Tom automatically turns off and on with the ignition (to prevent accidental battery drain).

This particular fuse slot is not only "switched," but it's also not being used by any other component in the FJ.



Just be mindful of your power cord's polarity (+ and -), and be sure to ground the negative (-) side. Use the manufacturer's recommended fuse size in the Add-A-Circuit. And, use quality automotive electrical crimp connectors.
Thank you very much! As for the "switched" slot how would I know which fuse slot is switched?
As shown in the above diagram, the 5th from the left (middle row) just happens to be an empty "switched" fused slot.

I didn't happen to write them all down as I checked them previously. But, with the engine turned off, you can use a continuity light (or a VOM) to check each open slot for power. Anything that lights up is "un-switched" (with the ignition turned off). Whatever remains will be your "switched" fuse slots (which require the ignition to be ON).
Steve 2 dummy questions. i got an add a fuse to hook up my CB. which of 2 slots do i put the fuse into? and also the fuse does not want to go in past the wedge on the prong. is it supposed to go hard and how do i get it in? flame away.


EDIT
Nevermind, i figured it out
Better yet, you could remove the A-pillar cover to hide both wires (to the Tom-Tom and Cobra).

http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/foru...-door-panels-removal-instructions-w-pics.html

x3 or however many more suggested it!
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