Toyota FJ Cruiser Forum banner

Not open for further replies.
1 - 3 of 3 Posts

761 Posts
To read the original full thread and post questions/comments on this topic, please go to

The project is now completed and everything works!

Full details are included in this thread. I also have a .pdf file I could send or I will see if I can get it attached here with some help.

First, I would like everyone to know this was a joint effort between myself and fellow member N928KC. The original pad idea was Casey's and the actual pad installation was done by him. A ton of e-mails went back and forth between us to complete this project. Thank you Casey.

Second, the project is complete and everything works correctly. However, I think a larger pad would work better. Casey and I are currently working on that and I need to add some additonal detail to describe the specific pad installation process.

FJ Cruiser heated mirror installation guide (section 1)

Required Components:

Heating pads: Burco Redi Heat #3801 (size 3 ¼” x 5 ¾” > recommend 5” x 7”)
Wire Harness: Muth #H-MOD (harness, switch, timer, etc. – everything needed is here)
Note: This kit includes the built-in 10 minute defroster timer = plug and chug!

Heater pad on the right

Harness kit

Tools used:

All you will need are basic hand tools. If you don’t own those, what can I say!
1 new tool I did purchase was a door panel tool at Napa. $10. Good investment

Let’s get started.

I would recommend doing 1 door/mirror at a time. Get it done, test it, put it back together and move onto the next door.

Remove the plastic door sill plate. Use a flat bladed screwdriver or trim tool. Start at the rear seat area (you will see a “joint” area just behind the front seats – start there) and go towards the front. Pull upwards and it pops right off. Be careful where it joins onto the front kick panel, it can hang up there.

Remove the kick panel. There is a knob like screw on the front floor board that needs to removed first. The panel basically just pulls off towards the rear of the vehicle.

Note: At this time, make sure your window is in the up position.

Remove the door panel. There are 2 screws and a plastic fastener that need to be removed first. Grab handle, door handle, front upper area. Push the little pin slightly in and the fastener can be removed.

To “pop” the door panel off, start in the lower front area near the speaker. Insert your tool between the panel and the door and pop it out. Move around the outside perimeter on both sides and the bottom. Once it is lose, lift the panel upwards. Now once the panel is free, you are going to have to reach behind it and remove the power window switch plug and the power door switch plug. They will have “pressure release” tabs on them. Squeeze and pull. The door panel will now be free except for the door cables. Sit the panel on a plastic tub because the cables are not long enough for it to sit on the floor.

Remove the speaker and mirror access panels.

Remove the mirror glass from the mirror. Tilt the mirror as far inward at the top as possible. Put a piece of tape on the bottom of the mirror.

Insert a round shank flat bladed screwdriver up between the mirror and the mirror mounting pedestal. The picture shows the “mounting pedestal” in the center. Notice the tool marks on the bottom. That’s where you want to be.

Twist your screw driver and you will feel the mirror pop free. It needs to pop free on the bottom and the two sides. When the mirror has popped free and is pivoted out about 30 degrees at the bottom, then grasp both sides of the mirror and pull downwards. There are molded fingers on the mirror which need to come out of the “pedestal”. Look at left side piece, just outside the circle around the “X”, below the 4 squares. Pry those out and they are busted!

Remove the outer mirror trim piece. There are 3 screws and a little squeeze tab on the lower outside (see the RH picture above). Pull or gently pry the trim piece from the mirror body (if you pry, do it carefully). Start on the lower outside corner and work your way up the mirror away from the vehicle (right side on passenger, left on driver).

When you get to the “top/outer” corner, be careful. There is a molded locking tab there that has to be released. My RH mirror is now missing one of those!

Once the outside of the mirror trim piece is loose, pivot the trim piece towards the vehicle. The trim piece kind of rolls out of the inward side clips. Be careful.

Remove the mirror from the door. Unplug it, remove the 3 screws, followed by releasing the fingers on the nylon clippy thing. Hang on to mirror or it takes a dive here. Use a screwdriver to release the fingers.

Remove the harness bracket from the back of the mirror (1 screw).

Pull the rubber gasket loose and make a slit in the gasket were my “finger” is. This is where the heater wires will go through.

Ok, we are done with the mirror for a little bit. Set it down, take a break and go have a beer.

Prepare for routing the heater harness. Release the two plastic clips that hold the rubber door gasket onto the door around the area of the door harness bracket (pink clips in the picture).

To do that, reach in through the speaker hole and squeeze the clips and they will release.

Remove the metal harness bracket (2 screws) from the door, remove the harness tape, and unclip the plastic part from the bracket.

Run the heater harness thru the mirror and thru the slit gasket. Note: The heater harness will be 1 black and 1 red wire. The pictures show additional wires which were used for the mirror signal project.

Run the harness up thru the body of the mirror and out the top. Leave plenty of excess wire to trim later. Note: Mirror is not reassembled yet as shown in the picture.

Pull the wires a little further thru the mirror stem, wrap them with duct tape to act as a wear sleeve and pull the harness back unto the mirror stem. You can see the same was done on the factory wires behind the new wires shown.

Remount the mirror harness bracket. Note location of new wires, they need to be as shown in the picture.

Sorry ...... I am limited to 25 images.

Go to "Heated Mirror - Full Install (phase 3) - to continue"

761 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Heated Mirror - Full Install phase 2 & 3

FJ Cruiser heated mirror installation guide (section 2)

Remount the mirror. Run the new wire harness thru the mirror access hole in the door and install the 3 mirror screws finger tight. Note: the nylon clippy thing needs to be locked into the access hole and it is too flimsy to go on its own. So grab the clippy thing tool …

and insert into the clippy thing loops and pull them into locked position.

Route the harness wires through the door. Take caution to route the wires to the outside of the window track and out of harms way. Use tie-wraps to secure the harness.

Wrap a protective sleeve around the harness where it exits the window hole.

Route the wires neatly down the door and tie-wrap. Run the wires thru the door harness, thru the door “tube”, and into the cabin. Reattach the nylon piece on the door bracket and tape, reattach the door harness bracket, and reattach the door weather strip.

Mirror final assembly. Remount the outer mirror trim flange. (No picture)

Install the heating pads in the mirrors. At this time I do not have the full details. I will add details as I have them. Take the pieces that look like this .. i.e. separate pieces.

and send them to Casey and he will make them look like this .. i.e. combined pieces

Note: This is what I did while my mirrors were sent out! ($5 for both)

Cut and terminalize the heater leads. Leave sufficient slack wire in the mirror for mirror travel.

Snap the leads onto the heater terminals.

Re-install the mirrors onto the mirror body. Note: Use reverse steps to the removal process. Make sure the mirror is fully snapped back into place. It goes in kind of hard, you would be wise to wear gloves just in case and press evenly on both sides of the mirror simultaneously (left and right) to distribute the force on the mirror.

I would recommend a continuity check at this time to make sure everything is ok before you button up the door.

Route the harness wires over to the fuse block area and reinstall the door panel, kick panel and sill plate. Note: I routed the passenger side on top of the glove box, thru the center section of the dash, and on into the fuse block area.

Ok, ½ done with the main install … way to go! … Now, do the other side! I guarantee it will go faster on that side.

Final assembly. You have done both doors and you are now ready to connect the main harness body, make taps and install the switch.

What I did next was check the harness function before I drilled any holes and mounted the switch. I ran power and ground to the main harness, put the meter on it and sat back. The heaters are supposed to run for 10 minutes and shut off. So I made sure the components were working correctly before I continued.

The last portion is pretty straight forward. There are instructions included in the harness kit and you should follow them.
1) driver red and passenger red both go to the main harness red
2) driver black and passenger black both go to the main harness black
3) etc, etc. follow the instructions in the harness kit

Drill a ¾” dia. hole for the switch. Use a Forstner bit or a hole saw. The flange on the switch is small and you need an accurate hole or it will show. I located my switch just to the left of the wiper switch panel and centered vertically.

Make all the final hook ups and run the power from a keyed terminal on the fuse block, tidy things up a bit, turn it on and go for a beer. Project is now complete. Congratulations!

Forgot to mention ....
The wire harness kit gives you a web site where different switches are available .... I ordered another one. The full amber one "bugs me" - you can see its reflection on the side window when it is on! (it's like $1.50 for this one !!!)

Note: Mirror turn signal project

761 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Re: Heated Mirror - Full Install (phase 3)

I will try to answer a couple of the questions I have seen:

1) using the "supplied" harness switch vs. adding a Toyota switch.
There is a built-in timer/circuit board on the Muth Harness. When you turn the mirrors on, the switch "indicator" light comes on also. The mirrors run for 10 minutes and then shut off automatically. When the mirrors go off, the light in the switch goes from solid to blinking. The "blinking" light acts as an indicator to you to either shut off the switch and turn it back on for another 10 minutes or just shut off the switch. I felt that the harness may work better by having a switch designed for the function of the timer and harness and chose not to change it. Now I did order another switch that has the same function, but it has a less noticable indicator light vs. the entire switch being a light. This is not a real high-tech system here. Basically the switch is a 3 wire switch: positive, negative and "blinker" positive.
Probably the best type of a "factory" switch to use would be one that would fully turn itself off when the timer went off so that the switch is not automatically "on" every time you turned the ignition on.
2) wiring the heaters into the rear window defrost - same logic as #1. timers are built into the mirror harness and I felt I would let them function as designed and not have to worry about the rear defrost timer overriding the mirror timer. you might also be able to use the rear defrost timer in place of the mirror timers, I just chose not to go there and keep the mirrors as a seperate entity.
3) The parts are identified in the write up. You need to buy 2 items and that is it.
a) mirror heatings pads: Mine are Burco #3801 Redi Heat
Redi Heat
Note: Casey and I are in the process of coming up with a little larger pad
b) the harness is from Muth Mirrors: #H-MOD
Muth Mirror Systems, LLC - Automotive Signal Mirror® Kits
they are having a 20% off sale thru December with free shipping! had it the next day!
this includes full harness, inline fuse, connectors, timer, switch, etc.
c) the only other items I purchased was a door trim tool from Napa and
some crimp style splice caps

Project is not really all that difficult, just a lot of little steps you need to go through. Let me know if you have more questions.
1 - 3 of 3 Posts
Not open for further replies.