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2013 FJ Cruiser #885/2500
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Discussion Starter #1
Admin: if this is in the wrong thread, please move to correct

Big project steps (FJ): finish by June 25th
WHY?
- When Removing the OEM roof rack one bolt + plastic bolt pieces fell inside my FJ. Below is the things I plan to do so Removing the headliner is a ONE TIME THING.

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Order of Project (Updated):
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  2. .
  3. .
  4. .
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Things I am doing in the best order so far: (If I’m missing anything please LMK)
1. (Easy) Remove interior tailgate panel, and prepare/install “NOICO 80mil 36sqft” noise & vibration elimination

Purchased 100 clips to replace any that break (June 11th Arrival) Leave Rear panel off until rear power window is installed
2. REMOVE all back panels + Remove aftermarket Amp & Subwoofer (disconnect main battery first)

- This includes removal on the rear seats (I have a youtube video for this) Remove back tailgate panel and then install NOICO 80mil insulation. (Take time, use rollers, use in warm environment)
Remove rear panels

Remove rear stereo to reach rear tail lights (keep track of all steps for reinstall)
*Remove rear panels You tube video:
REMOVE REST OF INTERIOR: - REMOVE front seats & front door panels + rooftop liner
  1. REMOVE HEADLINER, (YOU TUBE VIDEO) Partial removal 13min video: (hardest part, takes a long time)

During headliner removal : Includes removing 2 front pillars (Careful of airbag, disconnect battery)
  • ***You Tube video HERE, but does not have special info that ONLY relates to 2013/2014 TT edition with 6 total airbags + crawl control upper console.
  1. Find lost bolt + 2 plastic bolt guides that fell on the passenger rear install point for backbone roof rack rail (left & right only) & plan for insulation install on the interior roof (headliner must be fully removed) look into getting replacement parts just in case it’s lost inside the frame
  2. ABOVE HEADLINER (4x 20sqft of “NOICO 315mil Noico Сar Sound Insulation, Heat and Cool Liner, Self-Adhesive Closed Cell Deadening Material (PE Foam Sound Deadener) *Can Return Extra before July 9th freeAMAZON LINK:
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  1. Front Door panel removal + dynomat install prior to speaker install. Waterproof lower door speakers. (Use a ton of SOUND DEADENER FOR OPTIMAL RESULTS so you don’t have to take off door again. Install NOICO 80mil on both layers of the front doors)
  • > arrival of crutchfield.com replacement speakers TBD. 9-15th is my guess*

Interior of front door panels




Speaker install Videos

  1. How to Remove Front Door Speaker 07-14 Toyota FJ Cruiser
  2. FJ Cruiser Dash Speaker Install DIY!!
  3. Reinstall door panels, making sure window track is clear of debris & all clips are not broken (200 News clips coming June 11th on amazon, paid ✅ )
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  1. Look into also using NOICO 80mil on 2 suicide doors
  2. Install automatic Window actuator + wire to the front of car prior to reassembly. (Must Order today)
  3. Find a solution for the 2 shitty speakers above the headliner. (ONCE HEADLINER IS DOwn) After some research it might be better to just remove/disconnect wires from the head unit, and PRE PURCHASE new speaker to run off the rear outputs on the main head unit. OPEN TO SUGGESTIONS
  4. Big question: WHAT KIND of speakers & where should I install rear speakers? I WILL NEED TO PURCHASE IN ADVANCE + get wires needed + a location to grind a how in plastic panels to install a speaker.
  5. Make sure I get a return date for my (rear tail lights getting smoked by www.smokedouttaillights.com - (ETA ARRIVAL TO HIM, June 9th. His return back to me looks like 20th-25th, but I asked for 18/19th if possible). Payed via PAYPAL: ✅
  6. Before install of tail lights I must install all 6 LED’s from www.DIODEDYNAMICs.com (ETA June 10th-June 28th) payed ✅


  1. Before Headliner Reinstall, install RHINO BACKBONE SYSTEM after loose bolts and plastic bolt clip is recovered. *Must purchase: “RTV SILICON & STRIP CAULK”
  2. Before Reinstall of headliner, run my dash cam (NEXAR) wires towards the driver side Pilar (that’s still removed) and run power following stereo wires to a usb connector for power) Location flexible DO NOT STICK NEXAR TO WINDSHIELD until it’s tinted AFTER ALL steps below
  3. Look into a KILL SWITCH option while everything is apart.
  4. Reinstall all rear trunk panels AFTER turning on battery and testing rear power window & sub system, and front speakers.




Other issues:

(Still waiting for Reply for wrong color gas tanks with treadwrightires.com )

[email protected]

*Many Emails Sent:
•••••••••••••••••••••

ITEMS COMING:

Tracking Number:
ETA June 9th

1131183




  1. Arriving June 11th (must have to install NOICO)
1131184


TAPE needed for NOICO install - ETA, Monday June 8th:
1131185


  1. Arriving Thursday June 11th
1131187


  1. Arriving Monday. Roof insulation (4x 20sqft) will return extra)
1131186
 

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You don't use caulk on the roof rack bolts. Buy new mastic washers found in the "Hardware bolt kit" and new plastic "bracket - roof rack" inserts.

 

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2007 Black FJC
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I posted up over in Tony's old build thread, but I think the Crawler Box removal instructions by Wikid are here:
 

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2013 FJ Cruiser #885/2500
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Discussion Starter #4
You don't use caulk on the roof rack bolts. Buy new mastic washers found in the "Hardware bolt kit" and new plastic "bracket - roof rack" inserts.

Thanks for advice. I’m installing the rhino backbone system and it has washers and all hardware except for these 2 pictured below. I’m just going to get 6 of each so I have no issues and will use silicone on the bolts to make sure there is no leaks.
1131195
 

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Babyota,

I did a 100% acoustic treatment in my Cruiser a year ago. I've always treated all my vehicles. Based on your original posting I'm going to assume that you have some experience with sound treatments so I'll only add the following as reminders:

Take your time and work slowly. When removing and reinstalling the headliner, be gentle and keep your hands clean. After applying the sheets of butyl, wipe the aluminum foil with alcohol or whatever solvent your using before applying the closed cell foam. Purchase a lot of razor blades prior to starting the project and change the blades often. A quality pair of scissors is also handy to have on hand and have plenty of paper towels available.

When I'm applying sheets of butyl, I find it easier to cut and work with small pieces. Additional before applying butyl, I heat the material with a heat gun before applying it to the metal. I've found that heating it improves adhesion to the steel.

I'm a believer in sound treating any vehicle. Keep us posted. I'll be interested in your results.
 

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2013 FJ Cruiser #885/2500
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Discussion Starter #7
Babyota,

I did a 100% acoustic treatment in my Cruiser a year ago. I've always treated all my vehicles. Based on your original posting I'm going to assume that you have some experience with sound treatments so I'll only add the following as reminders:

Take your time and work slowly. When removing and reinstalling the headliner, be gentle and keep your hands clean. After applying the sheets of butyl, wipe the aluminum foil with alcohol or whatever solvent your using before applying the closed cell foam. Purchase a lot of razor blades prior to starting the project and change the blades often. A quality pair of scissors is also handy to have on hand and have plenty of paper towels available.

When I'm applying sheets of butyl, I find it easier to cut and work with small pieces. Additional before applying butyl, I heat the material with a heat gun before applying it to the metal. I've found that heating it improves adhesion to the steel.

I'm a believer in sound treating any vehicle. Keep us posted. I'll be interested in your results.
i had bilateral carpal tunnel release surgery 10 days ago, so I’m hoping to start in a few weeks. This is my first time doing this so still doing research.

I’m planning on using this:

1.) Second Skin Audio Spectrum Liquid Sound Deadening Spray and Paint - Water Based Viscoelastic Vibration Damper for Automotive Insulation (1 Gallon) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F6C9BJS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_qfc3Eb38B18M7
2.) Noico 80 mil 36 sqft car Sound deadening mat, Butyl Automotive Sound Deadener, Audio Noise Insulation and dampening https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00URUIKAK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ogc3EbVKXAG6M
3.) (and for the roof) > Noico RED 315 mil 20 sqft Сar Sound Insulation, Heat and Cool Liner, Self-Adhesive Closed Cell Deadening Material (PE Foam Sound Deadener) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QW2RL2Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_-gc3EbD1JEP43

Small Pieces at a time (100%) since 100% doesn’t need to be covered.

As for heat: NO ISSUE, working in a Vegas Garage Facing South.

I am still reading about the proper layering process. My 2013 TT is already great but the entire roof, rear suicide doors, front door, front pillar and rear tailgate are my top priority. (I will eat doing the truck too but that’s pretty straight forward.

Any More advice on install or issues would be great. Removing crawl control is super easy, and I believe the headliner will remover pretty easy if I remove the rest of the interior first. I’m thinking about wrapping the headliner to avoid getting it dirty as I remove because it’s IMACULANT right now. That’s my only worry in doing this because the ride is in MINT condition.

Look how clean under the truck is?^^ (pic below)
1131260
 

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Babyota,

As I stated I've been sound treating my vehicles for decades. The primary purpose is to create an ideal acoustical environment for audio sound quality. Even a mid range sound system will greatly improve when the vehicle is properly treated. A secondary benefit is the reduction of exterior noises entering the cabin. Most people and even manufactures will state that a 50% coverage is all that is required and I agree that there are diminishing returns beyond 50% but a vehicle that has been properly 100% treated produces amazing results.

There are 3 main types of materials needed to create the perfect acoustic environment. Foil backed butyl applied to metal surfaces to prevent the metal from resonating and to absorb low frequencies, closed cell foam to absorb mid range frequencies, and open cell foam for high frequencies with all products being layered on top of each other. If you're not installing a super high end audio system you can omit the open cell foam.

Buy quality products!

The majority of the labor is removing and reinstalling the interior panels so while the panels are out don't skimp on the amount of material applied. I also recommend double layering the butyl over the rear wheel arches and areas of the floor pan. As with anything, the devil is in the details. Unless you address small issues you're going to hear squeaks and noises that you've never heard before simply because you've eliminated much of the major noises. The plastic push pins that connect the interior panels to the metal are loosely fitted. Apply foam tape to these to secure a tight, rattle free fit.

Even with my knowledge and experience acoustically treating vehicles, it took me 10, 10 hours days to treat my cruiser. Take your time, pay attention to small details and do it right the first time around. You don't have to do it all at once. Complete the interior, then do the doors at a later date but the doors absolutely must be treated.

Your best source for information are youtube videos of professional car audio installations. I've attached a few links to get you started but there hundreds of videos available. Good luck.





 

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2013 FJ Cruiser #885/2500
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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks a ton. Appreciate all this knowledge! I wasn’t planning on doing this but since I’m taking the headliner down to install the roof rack properly, why not. Thanks again
 
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