They make electric impact wrenches. You can use a cheater pipe, but that's somewhat unsafe.
lots and lots of penetrating oil
lots and lots of penetrating oil
help: tools for removing high torque bolts
So I've been coming across bolts lately that are torqued to high, plus in awkward positions, making it impossible for me to get out by hand.
for instance, I could not get the rear lower link bolts to budge. The manual said they are torqued to 96 lbs. I even tried jacking up the truck, and using it's weight to turn it.
My question is, with out having an air compressor, is there a tool I can use for this? some sort of high torque electrical drill or something??
Thanks this is all new to me.
for instance, I could not get the rear lower link bolts to budge. The manual said they are torqued to 96 lbs. I even tried jacking up the truck, and using it's weight to turn it.
My question is, with out having an air compressor, is there a tool I can use for this? some sort of high torque electrical drill or something??
Thanks this is all new to me.
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X2 a breaker bar will work.
I use a CO2 PowerTank for airing up and down and also to run air tools for that very reason. If you have a trail repair that needs to be done and you can't get the bolt off, spinning up the air-tools works.
:ninja:
I use a CO2 PowerTank for airing up and down and also to run air tools for that very reason. If you have a trail repair that needs to be done and you can't get the bolt off, spinning up the air-tools works.
:ninja:
If the breaker bar doesn't work, you can place a cheater bar ( a piece of pipe that just fits over the breaker bar) on it to give you more leverage. I have several cheater bars that fit my breaker bar and 1/2" ratchet. Sure beats straining and beating up your knuckles.
How long does the tank last when used to power tools? Also, how much is a refill?X2 a breaker bar will work.
I use a CO2 PowerTank for airing up and down and also to run air tools for that very reason. If you have a trail repair that needs to be done and you can't get the bolt off, spinning up the air-tools works.
:ninja:
If you live in an area of the country that uses road salt in the winter I would soak the bolts/nuts you want to remove with lots of penetrating oil prior to attempting to remove them. I grew up in Detroit and remember trying to remove an alternator bolt. I was standing inside the hood with a 2' breaker bar and about 3 or 4' of a cheater pipe. When it broke loose I almost fell but did'nt care because I thought I got it loose till I looked at an exploded 6 point Mac socket. Ended up having to use a nut buster and replace both the nut and bolt.
I think the lower link nuts are serrated flange lock nut type.
For type type of nuts, you have to use the (hex) head of the bolt to turn them loose.
Can you explain further what you mean? thanks
I have tried a breaker bar, and I'm not sure i'd be able to get under there with a cheater of any length that would help.
Lift up the truck a little bit will give you more room to work with. When my breaker bar isn't enough, I slide my 2.5 ft jack handle over it. Breaker bar and penetrating oil should do the job. Just don't strip the bolt!I have tried a breaker bar, and I'm not sure i'd be able to get under there with a cheater of any length that would help.
Make sure to use a 6 pt socket vice a 12 pt.
Lift up the truck a little bit will give you more room to work with. When my breaker bar isn't enough, I slide my 2.5 ft jack handle over it. Breaker bar and penetrating oil should do the job. Just don't strip the bolt!
thanks, if nothing else I'm ready to try again
what do you mean by slide your jack handle over it??
so no one thinks an electric impact wrench would do the trick?
I have a 20 lbs tank and it lasts quite a while. The refill is $13.00. Keep in mind that the concept of a trail repair is not a "shop tank" where you're running air tools for everything in the garage. I also have a 10 lbs tank (which I'm phasing out) that I used to keep on top of the FJ. Air tools on high torque items were my reason for going to CO2 over a compressor in the FJ -- that and when I fill air-d down tires, they fill FAST with CO2.How long does the tank last when used to power tools? Also, how much is a refill?
Yes it will, but not needed.thanks, if nothing else I'm ready to try again
what do you mean by slide your jack handle over it??
so no one thinks an electric impact wrench would do the trick?
Electric impact will work. The jack handle is like a thick walled pipe. I slide it over the breaker bar (breaker bar is now inside the pipe) so now I have essentially a longer breaker bar.
I've been toying with placing it on my poor man's to-buy list. I think you just sold me. Thanks!I have a 20 lbs tank and it lasts quite a while. The refill is $13.00. Keep in mind that the concept of a trail repair is not a "shop tank" where you're running air tools for everything in the garage. I also have a 10 lbs tank (which I'm phasing out) that I used to keep on top of the FJ. Air tools on high torque items were my reason for going to CO2 over a compressor in the FJ -- that and when I fill air-d down tires, they fill FAST with CO2.
Electric impact will work. The jack handle is like a thick walled pipe. I slide it over the breaker bar (breaker bar is now inside the pipe) so now I have essentially a longer breaker bar.
yeah thanks, right after I asked, I thought about it, and realized I already have a cheater -the long jack handle
I think what you really need is a torque multiplier, I don't know if that is the name, but it is a ratchet type wrench with a little grearbox on it that multiplies the effort. We use all the time in heavy equipment.
now with more link goodness:leadfoot; said:I think what you really need is a torque multiplier, I don't know if that is the name, but it is a ratchet type wrench with a little grearbox on it that multiplies the effort. We use all the time in heavy equipment.
torque multiplier it is:
Klein Tools
X4 torque multiplierKlein said:Torque Multipliers. Torque multipliers are multi-geared tools generally used with ratchets or ratcheting torque wrenches as the drive component. Input is multiplied through the gearing four or more times depending on the model used. A reaction bar, which locks into the head of the torque multiplier, must rest securely against an object sturdy enough to withstand the force that will be generated. When driving a torque multiplier with a torque wrench, a torque loss factor at the fastener, caused by frictional losses through the gear train, must be taken into consideration in determining the desired torque at the output side of the torque multiplier. Torque loss factors are available from most torque tool manufacturers. Torque wrenches are available which can be used between the output side of the torque multiplier and the fastener. When used in this manner, the actual torque on the fastener may be read without the need to compensate for frictional loss.
X4 Torque Multipliers
Torque Multipliers and Torque Multiplier Set
Torque Multiplier | Torque Wrenches | Northern Tool + Equipment
Torque Wrenches & Power Multipliers - Bloomer Tool - Elora Tool Manufacturing - German Industrial Hand Tools
(ooo pricey)
1 - 20 of 31 Posts
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