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Discussion Starter #1
I've searched the threads and not found an answer to this. If I just missed it I apologize.

I went to change a tire with my hi lift jack and I raised the fj just fine but when I was done I flipped the lever to lower position and pumped the handle but the jack wouldn't lower. The pins wouldn't move much as I moved the handle down and back up fully. I switched the lever back to the up position and the jack continued to raise just fine. Finally I set the lever to lower and pumped the handle but nothing.

It's been a long time since i'd used the jack and I have it mounted on my roof rack uncovered. Does it just need to be lubricated, could it be user error or is there a bigger issue here?

Any constructive thoughts are appreciated.
 

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After I flip the lever on mine I have to push the handle all the way down and then all the way up. Its a PITA but it works. If I don`t do this mine will only go up. Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Ok so you're saying flip lever to lower, fully pump the handle down and up and I should be good to go from there? I'll give it a shot Thx!
 

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Hi-lifts never, ever lower easily. It is mostly due to the fact that we leave them out in the elements and they get dirt in the mechanism. So, here is a down-and-dirty (no pun intended) fix to the problem on the side of the road or trail. Keep a small can of WD-40 in your truck and use it to lube the mechanism. You might also have to give it a few gentle love-taps with a small rock/hammer/tool to coax the pistons to move. Never get between the handle and the jack body lest you will discover true pain - take it from experience. Hang onto the jack handle and let it down easy. Good luck with your repairs.
 

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x2 on WD-40.

If you look; with handle down, you can easily push the holding pin back with a screwdriver, lift handle, it'll drop one link; push handle down again, push holding pin back... Once I got mine out little WD-40 and cleanup it's good again. I noticed they do sell a pin maintenance kit (Maybe heavier springs...) Mine, knowingly, was from neglect. Bad me...
 

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i had this problem and was frustrated till i noticed that one of the pins had broken, hi-lift sent me a new pin for no charge
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Goooood stuff everybody. I'm glad to know it's not just me. I'll head out and give it a shot.

Thanks
 

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x's 3 on the WD and hammer. Lube it up before you start. :)

That is it right there. I always lube the jack before use out on the trail. Run the jack up and down a couple times. The Hi Lift jack is dangerous even when in fine working order..........
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well, a little lube goes a long way! I now keep a can of wd-40 in my fj. I lubed the jack up this afternoon and gave it a shot. Sure enough it functioned flawlessly. Thanks everyone. I appreciate the advice.
 

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WD-40... Don't leave home without it! :cheers:

cheers,

dale
 

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As a certified I4WDTA.org Trainer i can tell you 99% of brand new Hi-Lifts don't work...

the Hi-Lift is one of the most versital tools, and also one of the least used and understood. there are a couple places you should give attention to on a brand new Hi-Lift, if you look at the area of the jack where the climbing pins are you will see there are two "ramps" that push the cross pins back thus pulling the climbing pin out of the hole in the jack beam. this piece "reversing switch cam bar" is moved by a spring and the ramps on these are typicaly rough cast and painted. when it is pushed down by the spring and the ramp is rough they just bind up on the cross pin and it sticks. you should file the ramps smooth and use plenty of lube that should be enough to make your jack work nice and smooth...

scotty
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thx Scotty. Good to know.
 

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I fear my hi lift as well. I'll exhaust all other option before going to it. I keep mine out of the elements. In the cover and strapped inside my cargo area.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Yeah I just saw a neoprene cover so I think I'll pick one of those up and I've already got the wd40. I'm not afraid of it but any time you have to lift that much weight it's gonna be dangerous. I do fear getting wacked in the head with the handle though. I rock a death grip for sure.
 

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The biggest problem with the hi-lift is that no body takes the time to learn how to use it... get it out and play with it if the situation presents its self that you need it and you don't know how to use it why even carry it in your truck? almost every beginner off-roader goes out and buys one because everybody says you need to have one but they don't take the time to learn how to use it or all the things it can be used for...

as a trainer it's one of the first things i like to go over in classes, most peoples opinions of the hi-lift change once they know how and when to use it...

and for gods sake cut those frigin zip ties off the handle before you put it in your truck nothing screams newbe more than that... lol...

scotty
 

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As a certified I4WDTA.org Trainer i can tell you 99% of brand new Hi-Lifts don't work...

the Hi-Lift is one of the most versital tools, and also one of the least used and understood. there are a couple places you should give attention to on a brand new Hi-Lift, if you look at the area of the jack where the climbing pins are you will see there are two "ramps" that push the cross pins back thus pulling the climbing pin out of the hole in the jack beam. this piece "reversing switch cam bar" is moved by a spring and the ramps on these are typicaly rough cast and painted. when it is pushed down by the spring and the ramp is rough they just bind up on the cross pin and it sticks. you should file the ramps smooth and use plenty of lube that should be enough to make your jack work nice and smooth...

scotty
Not to mention the I-beam as well... give the powder coat a good filing where the complete running gear (whole lifting mechanism) slides on the I-beam. There's usually excess powder coat on the I-beam that can catch the complete running gear.
 

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Not to mention the I-beam as well... give the powder coat a good filing where the complete running gear (whole lifting mechanism) slides on the I-beam. There's usually excess powder coat on the I-beam that can catch the complete running gear.
Yep thats a good one too, although that is not gereraly the cause for one that will not lower, go down...

heres a little trivia question, how does the hi-lift actualy hold a load? most people will say the pins, while they do hold the load at certain times the jacks ability to hold the lifted load actually comes from the climbling mechanisim binding on the jack I beam. that little bit of wiggle between the mecanisim and the beam causes it to "dig in" and bind on the beam. this is the same as a trailer hitch, the cross pin is not intended or rated to hold the weight of a trailer. the reason you need tongue weight on a trailer is to cause the hitch bar to bind in the reciever.

all good info and hopefully this will get some of you guys that aren't comfortable with your jacks to get them out and spend some time with them....

scotty
 

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Discussion Starter #20
The biggest problem with the hi-lift is that no body takes the time to learn how to use it... get it out and play with it if the situation presents its self that you need it and you don't know how to use it why even carry it in your truck? almost every beginner off-roader goes out and buys one because everybody says you need to have one but they don't take the time to learn how to use it or all the things it can be used for...

as a trainer it's one of the first things i like to go over in classes, most peoples opinions of the hi-lift change once they know how and when to use it...

and for gods sake cut those frigin zip ties off the handle before you put it in your truck nothing screams newbe more than that... lol...

scotty
Scotty- I'm a practice like you play kind of guy. What are some examples of situations that should be practiced. I'd like to apply this advice.
Thx - Tim
 
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