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After reading a lot of comments here, and wishing to not be stuck in the middle of nowhere, i think I may want to replace my rear lower control arms. But the price seems to range from $300 and up. MAF seems to have a set with 0.25" wall thickness, ARB has a couple options with different tubing sizes and thicknesses, and there is always the more exotic ones out there.

That said... raw materials are comparitively inexpensive. A 6' bar of 1.5" round stock 41L40 steel is only $72 from mcmaster (plus unknown shipping) The end tubes will be cheap, even if they use adjustable threads. I have not yet looked for the bushings, but they should be relatively cheap.

But before I spend too much time on this I am seeking a little more knowledge. I have two questions.

1. What is the downside of having more mass in the control arms? (i.e. if they weight a lot more because they are solid bar and not tube... is that bad?)
2. How precise should the length be if not made adjustable?

Thanks.
 

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Weight would be the only real issue with exception of precision in adjustable length or the perfect length without adjustability. If I were you, I would lean toward spending the extra $15-30 dollars to build in an adjustability. As you said, shouldn't be hard to find the right stuff.

Please let me know how it turns out. I really like the idea and think I may go the same route.

Cheers,

Mike

P.S. PM me if and when you build them. I'd love to see how they turn out. Can't get to my own for a few months, but have a few issues I'd like to finish up with once my current plate is empty.
 

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After reading a lot of comments here, and wishing to not be stuck in the middle of nowhere, i think I may want to replace my rear lower control arms. But the price seems to range from $300 and up. MAF seems to have a set with 0.25" wall thickness, ARB has a couple options with different tubing sizes and thicknesses, and there is always the more exotic ones out there.

That said... raw materials are comparitively inexpensive. A 6' bar of 1.5" round stock 41L40 steel is only $72 from mcmaster (plus unknown shipping) The end tubes will be cheap, even if they use adjustable threads. I have not yet looked for the bushings, but they should be relatively cheap.

But before I spend too much time on this I am seeking a little more knowledge. I have two questions.

1. What is the downside of having more mass in the control arms? (i.e. if they weight a lot more because they are solid bar and not tube... is that bad?)
2. How precise should the length be if not made adjustable?

Thanks.
1. solid bar would actually bend easier than tube, I'd reccomend using a square tube for more rigidity. weight really shouldnt be an issue though being so low on the vehicle you could even factor it in, very minutely to lowering your COG.

2. Personally I would add a quarter to a half inch to it lust so you get a bit more flex. the preciceness should be in making sure both of them are the same exact size otherwise you will get a slight side drift from the rear. it will look like your rig is driving with the rear off to one side at an angle. definitly want it tracking straight.
3. You could use the toyota stock bushings and press them in to your end tubes. Adjustable threaded heims Look nice but In my opinion they are high maintanance and actually a weaker option than just welding straight to the bushing tube. remember, the more moving parts, the more chance for breakage.
I'm not suggesting copying anyones product but check out these for ideas.
check the difference between the pro and ultimates. I think the ultimates are the better option for strength and low maintanance.
pro

ultimate
 

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I made my own out of 2"x2"x3/16 tube, was super easy you want to be pretty close on length, do one at a time and use the other to measure. 2"x2" tube weights 4.32 lbs per foot, each is roughly 2', Your looking at under 20lbs. total, you will not notice that.

good luck,
 

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Take the OEM arm and weld some L metal on those and your good to go!
Freakin brilliant idea! That would definately stiffin them up and be hella cheap. :cheers:
 

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i bought the cheaper version from AP without the johnny joint and I think my bushing have worn out, I hear a clunk ever time I articulate I thought it was my upper links but i swear its the bottoms:( time for new bushings!
 

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Take the OEM arm and weld some L metal on those and your good to go!
oh and how would you know that Jake! j/k

that's what we did for the time being and haven't had any problems... our lower control arms were both bent really bad so considering they're already bad...the L metal did it good....
 

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ONe of my buddies from copper state cruisers did this on there rigs long time ago darling:rofl: what are you trying to say I stole that from ya??:fight:
 

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now now no thread humping over here:indifferent: this is serieeous!
 
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