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I wasn't able to get the metal cap off either without the entire assembly unscrewing with it. It's not reverse threaded, is it? That thing is stuck on there and wouldn't budge. I ended up just changing the filter element and draining/filling the oil as normal. However, my OCD is kicking in and i want to be able to get that cap off, or at least, the next time without having to purchase a whole new assembly.
 

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I was able to get the washer off. After 10 mins of lite hits with a flat head covered in a shirt got it off. The washer came off with no damage to the pan can't say that about the washer. I wish I had a wooden Dowell on hand. Any one doing the first oil change should be prepared for the same situation.

Also, thank you forum members for all the great information. This forum is a great help. I posted a pic of the washer and in a matter of mins the information was flowing in.

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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I changed the oil 3 weeks ago, first time doing this too in my FJ, I didn't have any issues with the canister getting stuck, however, what a freaking mess to change the oil in this vehicle, I've never ever splashed so much oil in my life changing the oil in any vehicle, my god, what are you guys doing to avoid the mess ?
The oil drains from very high, and freaking oil shoots out everywhere once it touches my low clearance drain pan, at least I can poke the filter with the plastic tool that comes with it and drain that oil, I can only imagine taking the entire canister out without draining the oil would cause another oil mess.
I put 3 big, and I mean 3 big oil stains in my driveway, that took me about couple of hours and a trip to Lowes to clean, yes I should've put some sort of big plastic cover before hand, but oh well, i'm not going to cover the driveway in oil next time, that's for sure :)
Good thing "pull it out" exist at Lowes or Home Depot, lol.
 

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First - thanks for this tutorial, it was very helpful for the 1st change on my 2014. A couple of observations:

- The filter holder drain arrangement wasn't very effective, about 1/2 a quart of oil remained in the holder after the drain had stopped flowing. Does the oil fill cap need to be open to provide vacuum release?
- I used a short section of road bicycle inner tube to extend the filter holder drain to my oil drain pan. Worked a treat, but needed a zip tie to secure to the tube fitting.
- My plastic filter holder came off with little effort using an oil filter wrench of the right size - which also fits my 2005 Corolla spin-on filter!
- I bought and installed the aluminum filter holder available on ebay. It is a confidence-inspiring upgrade to the plastic one.
- Tried sanding the dipstick tip w/320-grit and that worked nicely too. I can see my oil level now!

Thanks again for this and all the forum contributions. I feel like I'll be modding and maintaining the FJ for years!
 

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So I changed my oil this past weekend and realized I made a mistake with the O-ring for the filter cap.

I must have accidentally slid it all the way to the base of the cap. This explains why I was unable to screw on the cap as far up as it was when I removed it.

Anyway, my question is, does anyone know the size of the o-ring? I think I'm going to drain the oil from the filter cap and remove and replace the o-ring.

If no one knows the size I may just buy a new filter kit and consider it a lesson learned.
 

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You know ideally, you should change the orings, and oil plug crush gasket every time. I think that if you were to get a new filter kit and change your oring tsy87, that would be great.
Next filter change, if it is less than a year old and by visual inspection the same oring looks serviceable and is still pliable, I would approve reuse for the next one time.
 

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So I changed my oil this past weekend and realized I made a mistake with the O-ring for the filter cap.

I must have accidentally slid it all the way to the base of the cap. This explains why I was unable to screw on the cap as far up as it was when I removed it.

Anyway, my question is, does anyone know the size of the o-ring? I think I'm going to drain the oil from the filter cap and remove and replace the o-ring.

If no one knows the size I may just buy a new filter kit and consider it a lesson learned.
How long do you want to wait for one? I have plenty as they come with every filter and I never change them. I just look them over for any cracks, tears or chaffing that would cause a leak and if they look good I reoil and reuse. Then I check for leaks under pressure when I refill before I replace the skid and if everything is good just save the o-ring kits for emergency.

I could mail you one but it'll take a couple days USPS I'm sure
 

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How long do you want to wait for one? I have plenty as they come with every filter and I never change them. I just look them over for any cracks, tears or chaffing that would cause a leak and if they look good I reoil and reuse. Then I check for leaks under pressure when I refill before I replace the skid and if everything is good just save the o-ring kits for emergency.

I could mail you one but it'll take a couple days USPS I'm sure
Thanks for the offer, I think ill just swing by the dealership to pick up a filter since I just used up my last one anyway. The FJ isnt my DD luckily, I just read about and ordered the metal filter cap as well so I will just install it over the weekend.

Hopefully not all the oil drains out of the filter cap but if it does, I'll just use my mityvac to suck out the oil and replace it after.
 

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Ya'll,

Does anyone thinks there's a difference in terms of mess depending if you drain all the oil or the oil from the filter first?

I've seen some different write ups that have said different things. Just wondering what ya'll do!

Cheers
 

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I have only done it draining the filter. Not messy at all. Actually the cleanest oil change on any of my cars. If you let it drain long enough, you will likely get no oil mess, or at worst, a few spots here and there

Have seen other owners change it without draining the filter. it works but looks a lot messier

I think I am in the minority that think the new setup is far superior to the spin on filters.
 

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First time changing the oil myself since I had the dealer do it since two were included for free. All went fine until I tried to get that metal plug out of the plastic canister. Entire plastic canister turned. Just like others have experienced, talk about deal techs over tightening things.....

So I'll just install new o-ring on the canister and let it be. I had a new oil drain plug gasket from my 03 V8 4R and it fit exactly the same as the one I removed from my FJ.

All in all not too bad, but man I think I'll be getting a new canister set up and Fumoto valve for the next oil change.
 

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Great post & excellent write up! The Tundras are the same way. I cant for the life of me figure out why they did this & make it so hard. I have a 2007 with a Fumoto & need no tools & no mess??
 

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anyone have the torque specs for the M8 skid plate bolts?
I want to write them on the skid plate so the monkeys at the dealership have no excuse to strip them and shear off the heads again...
... had to drill out and repair three of them!
 

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Cheapo $2.86 rattle cans from Lowes! I had assorted half empty primers I did a first coat with and grabbed some bottom shelf Grey Gloss at Lowes. It says rust preventative on the label and the bottom of the can indicates it is made by Valspar. I'll see how it holds up.
 

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I'd like to tag on this thread since I have a 2011 and am due for for my first oil change after a full 30k service. I am planning on having my local dealer do the change. So if I may a few questions...

1) (newbie question) Is the oil filter changed with every oil change?

2) I have newly installed RCI skids. If the filter is to be changed do the skids need to come off? Since the skid has the panel I assume you can drain without skid removal but I am unsure if the skid has to come off to change the filer.
 
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