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Discussion Starter #21
Great write up! Already done 3 oil changes on 2010, couldn`t have said it better. Well done sir!
Thanks. I try to contribute where I can.

By the way, did you lose that oil pan cover on the factory engine skid? I threw it away lol
I see no real reason to keep it there unless someone can tell me why. It's just a small oval plate made of sheet metal, and I don't see how it could provide much protection from anything but mud and road salt.

-FJ Florida-
 

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So do I as it roars to life.



I read an article somewhere (maybe here) that the FJ has never required premium gas. It was explained like this in what I read: a "research" octane of at least 92 was specified by Toyota.

There are two octane ratings, research octane and motor octane, with research octane being the higher of the two by about 10. We average together the two numbers to get the octane rating that we see on the pump (R+M/2). So, 87 octane was fine according to this article that I read.

Toyota finally updated their statement to stop the confusion. Personally I am using 89 because I seem to get a bit more mileage out of it.

By the way, I found out that all gasolines are not created equal, contrary to what I always had been told. I'll post a new thread on that. In my city, Toyota/Lexus only recognizes 4 brands of gas as "top tier" to prevent deposits, and they aren't who I expected.

-FJ Florida-
That makes a bit more sense now why they can push the oil change intervals to 10,000 miles with synthetic. The more oil the better also a good fail-safe knowing your it will take longer for your oil level to go down. I'm curious to know if the 6.4 qt capacity can be added as a mod to the previous model years?

The sticker inside my fuel lid does specify "Premium Fuel" but I use regular (89 octane) most of the time. The only time I will fill with premium is when I tow my dual ATV trailer (very heavy) and when offroad.

I'm with you on the engine roar first thing in the morning it sounds awesome. My AFE cat-back really adds to the tone... just love it! :rocker:

BTY, excellent write-up!
 

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I received the 2 year free maintenance when I bought my '10 FJ, my 1st service was at 5k and was told that they would top off the fluids if needed and rotate the tires, the oil change would come at 10K.
I want them to do the 1st oil change, once that is done I will do an in beween oil and filter change as I have never done oil changes at over 5k even using synthetic oil, but I would hate for something to go wrong if I did the 1st oil change and have them forfeit the agreement.
I saw at Advance Auto Parts both Fram and Purolator oil filters for under
$5 and included both small and large oil rings, along with a plastic piece used to drain the filter case, just a FYI.
 

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My dealer said if you bring in your own oil they'll do the oil change with the rest of the maintenance tasks at 5K at no charge.

Whether that's just them or a Toyota thing I don't know, but the $45 or so for 7 quarts of Mobil 1 0W-20 seems a nit if you're going to keep the vehicle long-term.
 

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In the picture, it looks like the primary differences are metal end caps and an extra seal and different filter media. Any other major differences?

I wonder if we ALL should be using this filter. Shouldn't we all be using the best?

-FJ Florida-
Other then the aluminum flange around the filter and gaskets on the top and bottom, the TRD filter is much more solid then the stock one. The pleats on the filter seem more fine, to trap more sediment and filter properly. For $15 you can't go wrong.
 

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$15 for the TRD filter seems kinda price to me just to have an enclosed type top and bottom on the element. So I looked around and found FRAM CH10158.


It comes with the element both O-rings and the drain tool (though slightly different than the one in the OP post) just like the WIX but the ends are capped like the TRD filter. It was $7 at my local O'Reilly and the FRAM website lists it as the exact cross reference as the WIX number.

Part Details
 

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Discussion Starter #27
$15 for the TRD filter seems kinda price to me just to have an enclosed type top and bottom on the element. So I looked around and found FRAM CH10158.


It comes with the element both O-rings and the drain tool (though slightly different than the one in the OP post) just like the WIX but the ends are capped like the TRD filter. It was $7 at my local O'Reilly and the FRAM website lists it as the exact cross reference as the WIX number.

Part Details
Any filtration specs on that filter? I haven't used a Fram filter since one disintigrated on me several years ago. Cardboard inside the filter blew out as soon as I started the car. What a mess.

-FJ Florida-
 

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Any filtration specs on that filter? I haven't used a Fram filter since one disintigrated on me several years ago. Cardboard inside the filter blew out as soon as I started the car. What a mess.

-FJ Florida-
Well it's classified as part of their ExtraGuard line which is their basic filter series. Here's the generic details their website lists for this product line:

"With an ideal balance of dirt-trapping efficiency and dirt-holding capacity, every FRAM oil filter uses a special blend of fibers and resin providing a proprietary filter media that delivers excellent engine protection.
•The most commonly used filter media is cellulose, which is a natural material that presents a random and irregular field of fibers to the oil. By itself, it can only deliver about 80% dirt-trapping efficiency.
•By adding microscopic synthetic fibers, small windows are created that trap the smaller dirt particles without affecting the flow of oil. Blending synthetic fibers with cellulose increases a filter’s dirt-trapping efficiency and its dirt-holding capacity for higher levels of engine protection and longer filter life.

1.VS LEADING ECONOMY FILTERS' AVERAGE. FRAM Engine Protection ratings are based on multiplying an oil filter's dirt-trapping efficiency by its dirt-holding capacity.
2.Honeywell testing of filter efficiency and capacity of models equivalent to PH8A, 3387A and 6607 under ISO 4548-12 for particles > 20 microns. Engine protection is the FRAM measure of a filter’s ability to not just trap dirt but hold it for the life of the filter.
3.Honeywell testing of filter efficiency (using FRAM XG3387A and XG8A average) and dirt holding capacity (using XG8A average only) and their leading economy filter equivalents under ISO 4548-12 for particles > 20 microns.
4.Follow recommended change intervals as noted in your vehicle's owner's manual. 10,000-mile change interval under normal driving conditions using fully synthetic motor oil."
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Well it's classified as part of their ExtraGuard line which is their basic filter series. Here's the generic details their website lists for this product line:

"With an ideal balance of dirt-trapping efficiency and dirt-holding capacity, every FRAM oil filter uses a special blend of fibers and resin providing a proprietary filter media that delivers excellent engine protection.
•The most commonly used filter media is cellulose, which is a natural material that presents a random and irregular field of fibers to the oil. By itself, it can only deliver about 80% dirt-trapping efficiency.
•By adding microscopic synthetic fibers, small windows are created that trap the smaller dirt particles without affecting the flow of oil. Blending synthetic fibers with cellulose increases a filter’s dirt-trapping efficiency and its dirt-holding capacity for higher levels of engine protection and longer filter life.

1.VS LEADING ECONOMY FILTERS' AVERAGE. FRAM Engine Protection ratings are based on multiplying an oil filter's dirt-trapping efficiency by its dirt-holding capacity.
2.Honeywell testing of filter efficiency and capacity of models equivalent to PH8A, 3387A and 6607 under ISO 4548-12 for particles > 20 microns. Engine protection is the FRAM measure of a filter’s ability to not just trap dirt but hold it for the life of the filter.
3.Honeywell testing of filter efficiency (using FRAM XG3387A and XG8A average) and dirt holding capacity (using XG8A average only) and their leading economy filter equivalents under ISO 4548-12 for particles > 20 microns.
4.Follow recommended change intervals as noted in your vehicle's owner's manual. 10,000-mile change interval under normal driving conditions using fully synthetic motor oil."
Hmmmmmm ... I will track down one of these Fram filters and take a look at it.

I looked at the Purolator and did not like it. Then I looked at the WIX, and it looked like the Toyota OEM filter, only it had slightly thinner filter material and more pleats.

I am thinking I will just use Toyota OEM at this point. They are cheap enough. If I can get a deal on the TRD filters online, I'll probably use those.

-FJ Florida-
 

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Thanks for this write up! i'll see if i can get LCS to add this to the technical articles.



Even more a PITA for folks with heavy skids like budbuilts.
Yes. It's a sunuvabish. Toyota you're supposed to "Move FORWARD". Toyota must have run out of brainstorming ideas and realized everything old must be new/reinvented again.
 

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while the original post is very good how is this different that all the posts on the 2010 oil change? The first one is time consuming but ive done several now and its easy. i dont even have the 65mm socket, just hand tighten
 

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Step 9 - Do whatever it takes to get the fiber drain plug washer off. That thing was stuck on there so hard I was almost thinking it was part of the metal drain pan. A wooden dowel and a whack knocked it loose without damaging the sealing surface. I used a ribbed (for my pleasure) nylon washer that I hope will not stick like that. No leaks - yeah!
Too bad I didn't see your post until I've changed oil on my 2010 FJ. I really thought the stuck washer was part of the oil pan, and I even added another washer to it! Not leaking so far :rocker:

I have the OEM filter wrench from toyota but that thing is very tight too.

I have Ricochet skids that mount over factory skids. The rear end of factory front skid is stuck under Ricochet's engine skid and doesn't come off so I dropped both front and engine skids. That's eight bolts to wrench with some heavy pieces but I was able to get everything done under the unlifted truck without jacking up.

Overall, it's still a lot of work for just an oil change! I might consider doing a quick oil drain and fill at 5000miles/6month and a full oil and filter change with skid plate cleaning at 10000miles/12month.
 

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Wow what a pain in the ass just to change the oil! The part that would scare me the most is having to take down the stock skid plate. I had to take mine off to do some work to the truck and it took longer to put the skid back on then to do the repairs! It was all banged up and bent so the holes wouldn't line up. Two pry bars and three people to get it back on!
 

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Did my 1st oil change today @1200km and was also surprised at how dirty the oil looked. I also changed the transfer case and rear diff while I had it up on the jack stands. Not too bad of a job and it will be way quicker the next time
 

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I have heard horribly stories about new cartridge type oil filter design. It is very easy to strip thread on plastic cup. I heard this from different people, including oil station personal. So, now we need torque wrench to do an oil change!
The other story was even worse. Toyota has many engines with this type oil filter in different sizes. It is easy to mix the filter number and install ether shorter or taller filter. You can not see the filter element when you tighten filter cup, which lives even more room for mistakes. Taller filter will be smashed and can easily clog the oil line. Short one will not filter oil at all. Both are very dangerous to the engine.
Now I can easily see how mechanics at any oil change facility can screw things up. They use to be able install longer or shorter filters, as long as filter has same connection sizes. This bad habit together with unusual and rare filter becomes fatal now. I try to assess risk to do an oil change anywhere, including dealerships. I do not buy story about oil change performed by only top trained mechanics, as it is low level job, and will be done always by low level temp personal.
I will check the filter part number at least twice every time I need to change my filter. And I wish you all good luck with our oil filters!
 

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It is very easy to strip thread on plastic cup. <snip> Toyota has many engines with this type oil filter in different sizes. It is easy to mix the filter number and install ether shorter or taller filter. <snip> <snip> Taller filter will be smashed and can easily clog the oil line. Short one will not filter oil at all. <snip> I do not buy story about oil change performed by only top trained mechanics, as it is low level job, and will be done always by low level temp personal.
You raise good points and I cannot disagree with any of them

I suppose if I had a motor with the cartridge filter, I would actually compare the old one I just removed, to the new one about to go in. Just to verify they are the same height and width.

You can bet that any "mechanic" who changes your oil will just automatically put in whatever filter he has in his hands.

I can do an oil change on my '07 in 5 mins, 10 mins if I wait longer for the old oil to drain more. Not sure why Toyota had to change that, except to make DIY such a PITA that most who would change their own oil, will no longer do so
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Would it be considered an advantage that the new filter location - dead center of the engine and upside down - would guarantee that the oil filter stays full of oil 100% of the time?

I agree on the plastic housing. POS for something as important as an oil filter. Should be metal. I also do not like the feeling of bottoming out O-rings, but that's the way Toyota did it, so that's the way I put it back.

Just don't cross thread the thing, and don't get too heavy handed with it I suppose.

I "like" changing my own oil because then I know the oil is genuine Mobil 1 and is 0W-20 and I can compare the new filter to the old. Who knows what the flunky at "Snippy Glube" might use?

-FJ Florida-
 

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"..Would it be considered an advantage that the new filter location - dead center of the engine and upside down - would guarantee that the oil filter stays full of oil 100% of the time?"
Sorry for you all with the new oil filter set-up...2007 with filter up top and an access plate for the drain plug can't be beat. With over 105K miles and no engine problems,I don't think the filter being upside down is such a worry...though when I first got the truck and saw that filter location I wasn't sure.
 
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