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Would it be considered an advantage that the new filter location - dead center of the engine and upside down - would guarantee that the oil filter stays full of oil 100% of the time?
Dunno have never had any issues. Have had vehicles with cold start rod/bearing knock in cold weather, FJ isn't one of them.

I "like" changing my own oil because then I know the oil is genuine Mobil 1 and is 0W-20 and I can compare the new filter to the old. Who knows what the flunky at "Snippy Glube" might use?

-FJ Florida-
That is probably the most important reason to change your own oil
 

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This design definitely offers less protection to the filter including, that low positioned filter is not good for off-roaders, and can be damaged even behind not very strong stock skid plate on a trail.
i totally agreed.
Extra care MUST be taken with those o rings.....cartridge type oil filter is a major PITA.
 

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Help me out here......why are you guys changing oil so quickly? At 1200 miles or so?

Just to be sure there's nothing in there from break in, or what?
 

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nice writeup

haven't done the 1st oil change on the 2010 yet, but for some reason i thought the oil draining was all done through the plastic nozzle. did not know there was still the pan drain plug. now i hate this cartridge filter setup.
2X on your last statement. I was a Pro-Mech for many years and to this day I can remember what a crappy set-up it is and it hasn't changed, actually it's worse on the FJ, since the canister housing threads into the aluminum receptacle. Most other designs use a long cinch bolt. It's a bit frustrating since they could have gone with a quick lock thread & latch system.
 

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When I got my 2011, the dealership threw in oil change and tire rotations for first 36k miles. I didn't ask for it...they made it sound like it was standard service on all new FJs. Anybody else get this?

BTW -- the first scheduled oil change is at 5,000 miles....
 

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Discussion Starter #47
In the first few hundred miles of a new engine is where youre likely to get the most material wear as the parts "break-in". Thus the idea is to do the first oil change early to get that extra crap out of the oil.
As I said in my post, there were plenty of metal particles visible in the filter. That's just what was visible to the naked eye.

-FJ Florida-
 

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When I got my 2011, the dealership threw in oil change and tire rotations for first 36k miles. I didn't ask for it...they made it sound like it was standard service on all new FJs. Anybody else get this?

BTW -- the first scheduled oil change is at 5,000 miles....
Not bad but all the scheduled maintenance for the first 2 years/25,000 miles is free anyway

Toyota makes two years of free maintenance standard - Drive On: A conversation about the cars and trucks we drive - USATODAY.com
 

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I finally changed the oil in my NSSE for the first time yesterday at 2,024 miles. It wasn't as big of a deal as I was expecting, and the oil really didn't look too bad--no metal shaving or issues noted. I used one of the Wix filters from Schuck's. The worst part was getting the skid plate back on. The truck isn't quite tall enough to let the hooks both un-engage on flat ground, so I had to drive with my front wheels just barely up on a concrete slab to give it a little more lift. I used my knee and leg to help support it up while putting the screws in and I just threaded each in a little so I could shift it around and get it in place.

But I'd really like to find a stock-like front skid plate in aluminum. I looked at the comparison thread elsewhere here and it looks like the ones discussed are actually thicker and therefore probably heavier than stock. As a girl working on her own car by herself, bigger and heavier isn't going to work for me. Has anyone seen an aluminum aftermarket piece anywhere?
 

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May be a dumb question. So Toyota uses their own brand of synth oil 0-20W. At 5K I changed my own oil with Mobile 1 0-20W. I'm getting to change my oil again at 10K. At 10K the dealer includes a free oil/filter change. What are the down side if I use their free oil change oppose to changing myself with Mobile 1 0-20W?

Will their be any difference in engine wear, switching oil manufactures around every other oil change?

I will continue to use the TRD oil filter though.

Thoughts?
 

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May be a dumb question. So Toyota uses their own brand of synth oil 0-20W. At 5K I changed my own oil with Mobile 1 0-20W. I'm getting to change my oil again at 10K. At 10K the dealer includes a free oil/filter change. What are the down side if I use their free oil change oppose to changing myself with Mobile 1 0-20W?

Will their be any difference in engine wear, switching oil manufactures around every other oil change?

I will continue to use the TRD oil filter though.

Thoughts?
If you use the dealers oil you will get about 250,000 mi on the motor, on average, before a major repair

If you use M1 or switch back and forth you will get about a quarter million miles

:) :jester:

I wouldn't lose sleep over the brand of oil.
 

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If you use the dealers oil you will get about 250,000 mi on the motor, on average, before a major repair

If you use M1 or switch back and forth you will get about a quarter million miles

:) :jester:

I wouldn't lose sleep over the brand of oil.
PLUS, you can bring your own oil and let them do the work since its free anyway...
 

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FWIW, I was told by my Toyota service mgr. (friend of mine) that "Toyota oil" is Mobile 1. Clearly Toyota doesnt make there own oil. And even if they did, changing from one synthetic to another (same weight) is not a problem. The base stock for the synthetic oil is only made by a few different companies anyway. Mobile is one of them.

I dont know, I rather do stuff myself (when I can) then I know its done right and corners are not cut. I would use a TRD filter without question as they are constructed better. Generally, I really dont trust the dealers to do the work correctly. I think I've seen and heard too much. Just my .02.
 

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If you use the dealers oil you will get about 250,000 mi on the motor, on average, before a major repair

If you use M1 or switch back and forth you will get about a quarter million miles

:) :jester:

I wouldn't lose sleep over the brand of oil.
I hope to heck I get more than 250,000 miles out of this thing. With all the money going into mods, I needs this to go 40 years or 400,000 miles, whichever comes later!
 

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Cadillac, BMW, Volvo, AUDI (i think), Ford (diesel), and a few other manufactures have been using this cartrige style for years now. I am suprised that Toyota did this though. I guess they want the customer to rely more on the dealerships for their PM needs.
 

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Thanks for the write up.

My baby is about to hit 1000 miles, so your thread will be a great help this weekend

In step four you mentioned plastic filter drain tool. Is it a part of the filter housing, or do I have to purchase this drain tool?

I noticed that people try to cut cost by buying cheaper filters or oil. When it comes to these things you should get the best stuff available. Most of aftermarket filters don't seal properly and filtrate oil poorly. Buy saving couple of bucks, you significantly shorten life of your engine. The bitterness of bad quality stayies far after the sweetnes of good price has been forgoten.
To cut cost of good filters I usually buy them with somebody in bulk. That way you kill three rabbits in one shot: save money on you initial purchase, save time by not having to buy filters in the future and couple years later you will not have to pay increased price for them (things do not become cheaeper). That way they come allmost at the price of cheap filters.

Also, I would not worry about filter housing being plastic. As long a you work with it correctly, you should not have any problem. If you tighten it to manufacturers required torque (which is usually not tight at all) you won't strip it. You do have to have a torque wrench to do it right. In my opinion you should have it anyway, not just for oil change. And in my experience plastic filter housing tends to sit in during oil change interval. By the time you'll need to change your oil, you'll have to apply a lot more torque to losen plastic housing rather then when you tightened it couple thouthend miles ago.

To protect it from damaging during heavy wheeling use good skid plates. If you will be driving over stuff that may damage filter housing through factory skid plate, there is a good chance that you might damage something else as well.

I have three German made cars of different brands. All of them use plastic filter housing setup (a bit different from FJs). I change oil in all my cars every 3000 miles or when it becomes darker than pancake syrup. I've never had problems with plastic filter housings. And oil change process on FJ looks by far to be the easiest comparing to my other cars.

I am not trying to say that FJ's new plastic filter housing setup is better. I just think it is not such as big deal as people think of it. Also, I do believe that Toyota injeneers change things for a good reason and not for cost cut.
 

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In step four you mentioned plastic filter drain tool. Is it a part of the filter housing, or do I have to purchase this drain tool?
Should come with the filter, check in the box before you buy it
 
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