Toyota FJ Cruiser Forum banner

1 - 20 of 26 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
358 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
So instead of buying new rear control arms to replace and beef up the crappy bent stock ones, I ended up picking up a 110 volt welder off of craigslist. I then bought some 1 1/2 steel square tube with a 1/4 wall all for a lot less then I would of paid for after market arms.
I went with the square tubing because I like the look better then tube but I also believe by turning it on end it would be stronger then tube. In theory the corner will have a smaller radius then tube and this would make it stronger, it also creates a lot smaller contact area when sliding across rocks.
So her are some pics.
Welder

Tube

The original control arms only have a 3/32 wall...no wonder they bend easy.
You can see the difference in wall thickness


Here is the stock control arm all bent :)

I just cut the ends off so I could reuse them.

and then notched the tube and welded them on. I use one of the straight control arms I got from Lordac put some steel pins in it and used it to hold the new one in place while I welded it.



I painted it up and mounted it to test it out.....fits perfect. :rocker:



Also added oversize washers to help prevent the mounting brackets from bending and getting mashed up.


There is no way in hell these will ever bend, they are extremely heavy duty.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,507 Posts
Interesting project, I like it. You could make some sliders real easy too by using some angle iron. That would work perfect for your application.:cheers:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,387 Posts
How was your weld penetration? The 110 volt welders top out at 1/4 in. thickness. I have the same welder and have not had good luck without preheating the thicker metal.

They do look good. I might need to try this mod....if I can get the welds right.:cheers:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,113 Posts
:clap: :rocker: Nice work. :)
 

·
RIP Tim
Joined
·
885 Posts
That is unreal, I know a fabricater here in Middle Ga, I think I will be calling in the morning, to do some cutting and welding for me. a little paint and boom there you go...

So instead of buying new rear control arms to replace and beef up the crappy bent stock ones, I ended up picking up a 110 volt welder off of craigslist. I then bought some 1 1/2 steel square tube with a 1/4 wall all for a lot less then I would of paid for after market arms.
I went with the square tubing because I like the look better then tube but I also believe by turning it on end it would be stronger then tube. In theory the corner will have a smaller radius then tube and this would make it stronger, it also creates a lot smaller contact area when sliding across rocks.
So her are some pics.
Welder

Tube

The original control arms only have a 3/32 wall...no wonder they bend easy.
You can see the difference in wall thickness


Here is the stock control arm all bent :)

I just cut the ends off so I could reuse them.

and then notched the tube and welded them on. I use one of the straight control arms I got from Lordac put some steel pins in it and used it to hold the new one in place while I welded it.



I painted it up and mounted it to test it out.....fits perfect. :rocker:



Also added oversize washers to help prevent the mounting brackets from bending and getting mashed up.


There is no way in hell these will ever bend, they are extremely heavy duty.
 

·
RIP Tim
Joined
·
885 Posts
Were you concerned with the heat and the rubber bushings?


You are always up at thid hour when I am...LOL My meds wake me up...to funny
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
16,793 Posts
You are always up at thid hour when I am...LOL My meds wake me up...to funny
I work about 4pm-12am.
So i am up/sleep very weird, and different times every day. haha.
About to get off work in a second, go home and install my fire extinguisher mount.:bigthumb:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
358 Posts
Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Were you concerned with the heat and the rubber bushings?
Yeah I was
I could only weld in small burst so the rubber wouldn't heat up and catch on fire plus I also soaked a rag in water and kept dabbing the rubber to keep it cool

Great work, looks good! So how much for a set??? :)
I was actually thinking on making a few more sets once I invest in some more equipment so I can make them faster, and I probably would sell them for $125 a set

How was your weld penetration? The 110 volt welders top out at 1/4 in. thickness. I have the same welder and have not had good luck without preheating the thicker metal.

They do look good. I might need to try this mod....if I can get the welds right.:cheers:
I was getting good penetration with that welder, I actually had to be careful not to burn through the metal. Remember the tube is 1/4 thick which is max for the welder but when you grind a 45 on the ends the thickness becomes more like 1/8 to 3/16 thick :)
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
16,793 Posts
I was actually thinking on making a few more sets once I invest in some more equipment so I can make them faster, and I probably would sell them for $125 a set
Becareful with who/how you present this information on here. Lot's of rules about how to go about selling advertising.

They do look good, and your stocker is the most bent i have ever seen:bigthumb:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
358 Posts
Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Becareful with who/how you present this information on here. Lot's of rules about how to go about selling advertising.

They do look good, and your stocker is the most bent i have ever seen:bigthumb:
Will do, that was just a ball park figure if I do start to sell them.
And thank you, I take great pride in destroying my rig :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,885 Posts
Just this week an FJ was with us in Moab and completely broke his lower arm into two pieces... took the broken arm to an off road shop and they did exactly this, though with heavy tubing. Same idea though.

Nice job!

Any particular reason you welded it so the square cross section sits diagonally on the truck instead of straight?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,470 Posts
It would be easier to go with heavy wall DOM tubing and put Heim joints in each end....
The amount of penetration required for a good (not too keen on the weld I see on yours) would make that thin wall bushing red hot. I would like to see you take it on some trail rides where you bent the last one (take a spare) before you make more - theres some liability when you make stuff like this.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,990 Posts
Good job. They do look beefy.

One option for others considering using the square tubing . . . the angled corner provides less area to drag on a flat rock, however, by mounting it square you could've copied ICON's very cool idea of adding HMWPE (high molecular weight polyethylene) for even easier sliding without metal to rock contact.

If you were going to sell these, you could easily offer various options to suit customers needs at various price points.

For example:
1) Arm as you've shown with stock ends (cheapest)
2) Arm welded square with HMWPE skids
3) Upgrade one end (of either of the above styles) to a more flexible johnny joint
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,500 Posts
There's got to be a way to press out those bushings before welding. Nice job.

DEWFPO
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,113 Posts
What about square S.S. tubing????? That'd be sick!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
358 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
There's got to be a way to press out those bushings before welding. Nice job.

DEWFPO
If you find a way let me know because it doesn't look like you can.



So I made up another one last night to run as a spare. I tested them out last weekend on a 6 hour trail run I lead on some moderate trails (even ran the trail that bent the original) and they worked awesome. I'm leading another run tomorrow and in 2 weeks I'll be taking a group down to Rausch Creek PA off road park to beat the snot out of the arms. I personally do not see any structural problems with these at all but Rausch will be the test of them :)

Reusing the ends is definitely the most cost effective but as some mention I am looking into Heims joints as an option and also looking into welding a 1/2 thick square nut into the ends, so I can use threaded adjustable johnny joints. I'm finding this square tube to be just as easy as round tubing and I honestly think it will be stronger and more impacted resistant too.
Side note: Original weighs about 7lbs a piece, new ones are 15lbs a piece :)

Here's some pics of the spare:

I can't run a solid bead per each flat side because it will generate too much heat, so I alternate doing smaller beads on each end. But I'm not have no problem getting good penetration.

 
1 - 20 of 26 Posts
Top