Toyota FJ Cruiser Forum banner
1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,984 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So i had the red air bag light in my dash a couple of months now. It would come and go. I read the codes with my Techstream and got back the code B1801 which is a short in the spiral cable... Yeah that says a lot....

Last week i went to the dealer to get my transmission fluid changed and asked him to check it out. He came back with a defective Clock Spring, part price 416$ ( keep in mind i live in Canada... ) Found one cheaper on Eb** but it ended up not fitting ( cable connections would not click ) even if it was the same part number, go figure.



So got the Toyota part from the dealer.

FJ Cruiser Clock Spring part no 84306-07040


Install is pretty easy once you know how ( aren’t they all )

-First disconnect your battery ( just to be sure the air bag doesn’t deploy )

-Under the steering wheel there are 2 square plastic “doors” remove them


-You get access to 2 torx screws , unscrew them, they will stay in the steering wheel Column, so no worries for them to fall down and loose them.

-Once unscrewed, pull on the middle part of the steering wheel ( the part where the Toyota logo is ) on each side. Go easy there are wires behind that part. That’s your airbag.


-Unplug the ground , small black cable and the 2 center cables, you might need a flat head screw driver to pull them out, again be gentle.

-Once removed you have access to the steering wheel nut, unscrew it. It may be wise to draw a straight line across the nut to your steering wheel to know where it was before you remove it, because it needs to go back at the same place if you want your steering wheel to be straight.


-Once the nut removed pull on the steering wheel, this might need some force, you can rock it side to side, gently, so it comes off.

-Once off you have access to the clock spring. Remove the 4 screws at each corner, disconnect the 2 cables at the bottom of the clock spring.



-Only thing left is to redo this backwards

-Connect the cables back into the new clock spring

-Make sure that you DO NOT move the square part that the 2 airbag cables come out from. It should be locked into place by an orange plastic pin.


-Once the cables are connected and the clock spring is screwed back into place pull and break the orange plastic clip, it will release the clock spring leaving it to turn freely. If you don’t have that clip or have removed it by accident, turn the clock spring until you meet a resistance, then turn it back until you get a resistance again, count 2 ½ turn back to middle. It should be now centered, side to side is normally 5 turns.

-Put your steering wheel back on, pull the airbag cables through the top part

-Screw back the steering wheel nut, stop where your line is ( make sure the steering wheel is straight )

-Connect the 2 airbag cables by pushing them until they clip into the airbag,
reconnect the black ground wire.

-Screw back the torx screws, you might have to turn the steering wheel so they align properly.

-Put the plastic tabs back on the steering wheel.

- Connect your battery, start the truck , and the airbag light should disappear after a couple of seconds

-You are DONE !

Hope this helps someone, sorry if the pictures are not always clear and the bad grammar ;)

:smile
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,160 Posts
Awesome write up indeed.
Dealers and mechanics are loosening a lot of money by "DO IT YOURSELF"
Love it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,158 Posts
If your D Squib Circuit issue was corrected by replacing the spiral spring, it is possible that the airbag ECU still has the trouble code stored in it, illuminating that light.

There is a sequence to clearing the DTC (diagnostic trouble code) in the airbag system:

1) Use a paperclip to connect terminals TC and CG in the "DLC3" (the "OBDII" connector under the dash). CG is terminal #4 (chassis ground), TC is terminal #13 (Toyota uses this one for the airbag system check). Make sure you get the right ones as doing this wrong can cause trouble.
Font Parallel Slope Electric blue Circle



2) turn the ignition key to "ON" and wait for approx. 60 sec.

3) the airbag light will blink, if it blinks 2x/second, that means all is OK. If it blinks 1x/second, that means it is OK but there is a stored trouble code. Then it will proceed to blink out the stored trouble codes starting with the lowest one if there are more than one, with a 1.5 second pause between each digit, and a 2.5 second pause between each code. When it is done there will be a 4 second pause and then the whole sequence will be repeated.

4) turn off the ignition key, and the DTCs should be cleared.

5) there are a few codes which will not be cleared by this process, and in that case you repeat the above but then the trouble codes start being blinked, within 3~10 seconds of them starting to blink pull out the paperclip. Then watch to see if the SRS warning light comes on after about 3 seconds. Then, within 2~4 seconds of that SRS light going on, reconnect TC and CG (make sure you get the right holes!), then the SRS light will go off within 2~4 seconds then disconnect (pull out the paperclip again) within 2~4 seconds of the SRS light going off. The light will go on again, within 2~4 seconds and reconnect those two terminals one last time, once again within 2~4 seconds of the light having gone on.

Its pretty fussy for a reason, so that it won't be affected by anything normal or by accident. Because it is so fussy, its usually easiest to use a Techstream to clear such codes (it does it all electronically, and behind the scenes).

See if that works (I had an airbag light on, because I'd been driving with one airbag unplugged for a while, during a project, and it was really hard to get the sequence just right to turn it back off!).
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,158 Posts
By the way, "Open in D Squib Circuit" is ambiguous. Did it mean the driver's steering wheel airbag, or did it mean one of the other driver's side airbag squibs? The Toyota list of trouble codes has text which gives more detail. I wonder if it would be worth having a dealer read the code with their Techstream (and maybe clear it while they are at it)?
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top