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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Roof leak? Sound deadening? Insulation? If you answered yes to any or all of the above then you may need to drop that headliner!

Tool list:

Philips screwdriver
Metric socket set
Panel tools

If you don't have a set of panel tools you can get buy with a butter knife and a few other improvised tools but you run the risk marring plastic components. A set of panel tools costs next to nothing and will be one of the best purchases you'll ever make.

Here's a link -
https://www.amazon.com/GOOACC-Remov...eywords=auto+trim+tools&qid=1617983081&sr=8-8

Once your tools are in order make sure to DISCONNECT the ground from your battery. Depending on the year of your FJ you may have side airbags under your headliner, inside your seats, etc so always disconnect you battery before removing major trim components - last thing youn need is an airbag going off!

One last tip: the headliner stains easily so make sure to start with clean hands or use latex gloves.

Now that you're all set up and safe it's time to get started. Step one is removing the sun visors, start buy turning the visor clip counter clockwise and pulling down - it should pop right out:
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You might have to wiggle it a bit to get it out but it will go.
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Next grab your screwdriver and remove the two Philips screws holding the visor up:
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After that move on to the grab handle on the A Pilar. There are two tab covers on the top and bottom of each grab handle, pop them off with a panel tool (or butter knife) to reveal the fasteners:
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Grab your Philips screwdriver and remove the screws:
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Repeat this process for all 4 grab handles.

Next you're gonna want to remove the A Pilar panel, start by wedging a panel tool (or whatever you have on hand) between the doors weatherstripping and the panel:
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While prying with one hand, slide your other hand into the top of the panel until you have a good grip on it and then pull down HARD:
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It will feel like your about to break the panel but I promise you wont, just use both hands if needed and pull until you hear the snap clips pop off.

Next it's the upper door latches located on the top edge of the inner door jambs, start by prying off the two circular caps located on either side of the latch. Wedge in a panel tool and wiggle until they pop off:
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Then grab a 10mm socket and remove the mounting bolts:
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Now the latch covers should pop right off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Moving on to the 2 coat hooks located in the back cargo area. Pinch the lower section with both fingers to release cover:
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Fold down the cover to reveal the bolts - 10mm again here.

Next up remove the 4 retainer clips from the headliner - there are two on either side of the rear dome light and two more towards the middle dome light. A pry panel tool or a tack puller works perfect here:
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After that move on to the dome lights. Start by wedging between the light's lens and trim ring, a gentle pry will pop the cover off:
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Once the cover is off remove the two "lock" panels on either side of the inner housing:
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Push in the two release tabs located under the panels you just removed - now the light housing is ready to be pulled down:
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Wedge your panel tool or butter knife between the headliner and outer edge of the light housing. The light should pop down but will still be attached to the wiring - let it dangle for now.

Next up are the retainer clips located above the small rear side windows, grab your screwdriver and push in the release button in the middle of the clip until you hear a pop:
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Using your pry tool, remove the retainer clips:
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After that move onto the circular covers located on the upper trim panels behind the suicide doors. Pop the covers and remove the bolts with your (you guessed it) 10mm socket - you'll need an extension this time since the bolts are in there pretty deep:
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By the time I had realized that I should take pictures and do a post about this I had already removed the inner wheel well cover panels so unfortunately I don't have pictures for that step. They are held on by a few bolts and inner retainer clips and are pretty easy to remove once you get the hang of it. If you have a subwoofer you will have to remove it as well prior to removing the passenger side panel. Anyone stuck on this step can feel free to message me and I'd be happy to walk you through it. Anyone who only needs to DROP the headliner, not fully remove it (maybe you just need to check for water damage or access some of those pesky roof rack brackets) skip to removing the rearview mirror, detailed in the next section.

Now, remove the upper cargo panels. Start by popping the clips midway up the suicide door jambs with a pry tool:
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Work your way down the lower portion of the panel and release as many clips as it takes to get a good grip on the front side of the panel. Then, gripping the front of the panel, pull away until the rest of the clips release:
1158780
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Now it's time to remove rear view mirror. I saved this for last since it does a great job holding up the headliner while you take everything else apart.

Start by removing the plastic cover where the mirror meets the headliner. Working from the back, pry with your panel tool until the cover pops off:

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Remove the two Philips screws behind the plastic cover. Make sure you have a hand on the mirror before you remove the last screw in case it wants to fall down:

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At this point the only thing keeping the headliner up is the weatherstripping around the door jambs. Start pulling and the headliner should drop down:

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Next you're going to want to feed the dome light housings up through the top of the headliner, pulling them through to the other side:

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Moving onto the "speaker exciters" (if anyone could tell me what the hell these things actually do I'd appreciate it) located above each headrest. Start by peeling back the adhesive foam covering the wire connections, the adhesive is very strong so use a sharp pocket knife to get a corner started until you can get a good enough grip to pull them back:

1158793


To release the connectors gently push down on the little top tab with the tip of your pocket knife and wiggle the sides with your fingers. One side came out easy for me and the other one was a pain in the ass:

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Now you're free to pull up all the wiring from the black adhesive strips, take your time sperating the wire from the adhesive - don't just yank it all off in one piece. You'll need the adhesive to stay put for when you put things back together:
1158795


Once you've pulled up all the wiring the headliner is free!

Open the back hatch and slowly pull it out - careful with the edges, they will want to catch on the way. If you have someone to help with this part it's going to be a lot easier. The headliner is big and cumbersome:
1158796


That's it!

The whole job can easily be done in a few hours, quicker if you have help. Personally I removed my headliner as part of my sound proofing project (I'll be doing a "how to" on that later on so follow me if you're interested) and while it was out I dropped it off at my local car wash/detailer to get professionally cleaned since it was pretty nasty. I also added some insulation between the roof and headliner before it put it back together to help with climate control.

Curious to hear from anyone else who's done this - any shared insights would be appreciated. It was a lot harder to write this post then the job itself so hopefully a few of you find it useful 😅. If anyone has any questions feel free to ask and I'll do my best to respond.

Enjoy
 

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RoboKarl,
Thanks for taking the time to document this process. I removed my headliner a couple years ago, also for the purpose of sound treatment. The only instructions I could find was an incomplete Youtube video. Like you, I was also stumped when discovering the "Speaker Exciters". I first thought they might be alarms but after researching and finding their nomenclature, I left them disconnected.

For anyone else following this post and considering sound treating their roof, there is a lot of space between the roof and headliner so you can go heavy on material. I used foil backed butyl them layered closed cel acoustic foam over it.
 

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2013 FJ Cruiser TT • 1 of 2,500
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Now it's time to remove rear view mirror. I saved this for last since it does a great job holding up the headliner while you take everything else apart.

Start by removing the plastic cover where the mirror meets the headliner. Working from the back, pry with your panel tool until the cover pops off:

1158785


Remove the two Philips screws behind the plastic cover. Make sure you have a hand on the mirror before you remove the last screw in case it wants to fall down:

1158797


At this point the only thing keeping the headliner up is the weatherstripping around the door jambs. Start pulling and the headliner should drop down:

1158787


1158788


Next you're going to want to feed the dome light housings up through the top of the headliner, pulling them through to the other side:

1158791


Moving onto the "speaker exciters" (if anyone could tell me what the hell these things actually do I'd appreciate it) located above each headrest. Start by peeling back the adhesive foam covering the wire connections, the adhesive is very strong so use a sharp pocket knife to get a corner started until you can get a good enough grip to pull them back:

1158793


To release the connectors gently push down on the little top tab with the tip of your pocket knife and wiggle the sides with your fingers. One side came out easy for me and the other one was a pain in the ass:

1158794


Now you're free to pull up all the wiring from the black adhesive strips, take your time sperating the wire from the adhesive - don't just yank it all off in one piece. You'll need the adhesive to stay put for when you put things back together:
1158795


Once you've pulled up all the wiring the headliner is free!

Open the back hatch and slowly pull it out - careful with the edges, they will want to catch on the way. If you have someone to help with this part it's going to be a lot easier. The headliner is big and cumbersome:
1158796


That's it!

The whole job can easily be done in a few hours, quicker if you have help. Personally I removed my headliner as part of my sound proofing project (I'll be doing a "how to" on that later on so follow me if you're interested) and while it was out I dropped it off at my local car wash/detailer to get professionally cleaned since it was pretty nasty. I also added some insulation between the roof and headliner before it put it back together to help with climate control.

Curious to hear from anyone else who's done this - any shared insights would be appreciated. It was a lot harder to write this post then the job itself so hopefully a few of you find it useful 😅. If anyone has any questions feel free to ask and I'll do my best to respond.

Enjoy
If you need any advice I stripped my entire 2013 FJ last May. I installed a stereo and did an overkill sound insulation install with many layers.

I never did a complete write up, but I did 100% coverage of Sound Deadener (Butyl) on the roof, floor up the firewall, and all 4 doors and rear door. I followed it up with closed cell foam EVERYWHERE. I then did Mass Loaded Vinyl (MLV) on the floor front to back, and then more closed cell foam (CCF) on the floor as a buffer between the plastic floors which is under my rubber floor mats.

It took me 40 Days & around 250hrs during COVID.

I would love to be able to help out anyone with questions about this. It completely changed how it drives, the ride, the road noise & power of my sub.

You can watch the transformation in my Instagram Story @_Babyota & feel free to ask me any questions.

👌🏽

ps. great job with the step by step headliner removal. Documenting it takes as much time as it takes to actually remove it.
 

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2013 FJ Cruiser TT • 1 of 2,500
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Now it's time to remove rear view mirror. I saved this for last since it does a great job holding up the headliner while you take everything else apart.

Start by removing the plastic cover where the mirror meets the headliner. Working from the back, pry with your panel tool until the cover pops off:

1158785


Remove the two Philips screws behind the plastic cover. Make sure you have a hand on the mirror before you remove the last screw in case it wants to fall down:

1158797


At this point the only thing keeping the headliner up is the weatherstripping around the door jambs. Start pulling and the headliner should drop down:

1158787


1158788


Next you're going to want to feed the dome light housings up through the top of the headliner, pulling them through to the other side:

1158791


Moving onto the "speaker exciters" (if anyone could tell me what the hell these things actually do I'd appreciate it) located above each headrest. Start by peeling back the adhesive foam covering the wire connections, the adhesive is very strong so use a sharp pocket knife to get a corner started until you can get a good enough grip to pull them back:

1158793


To release the connectors gently push down on the little top tab with the tip of your pocket knife and wiggle the sides with your fingers. One side came out easy for me and the other one was a pain in the ass:

1158794


Now you're free to pull up all the wiring from the black adhesive strips, take your time sperating the wire from the adhesive - don't just yank it all off in one piece. You'll need the adhesive to stay put for when you put things back together:
1158795


Once you've pulled up all the wiring the headliner is free!

Open the back hatch and slowly pull it out - careful with the edges, they will want to catch on the way. If you have someone to help with this part it's going to be a lot easier. The headliner is big and cumbersome:
1158796


That's it!

The whole job can easily be done in a few hours, quicker if you have help. Personally I removed my headliner as part of my sound proofing project (I'll be doing a "how to" on that later on so follow me if you're interested) and while it was out I dropped it off at my local car wash/detailer to get professionally cleaned since it was pretty nasty. I also added some insulation between the roof and headliner before it put it back together to help with climate control.

Curious to hear from anyone else who's done this - any shared insights would be appreciated. It was a lot harder to write this post then the job itself so hopefully a few of you find it useful 😅. If anyone has any questions feel free to ask and I'll do my best to respond.

Enjoy
If you need any advice I stripped my entire 2013 FJ last May. I installed a stereo and did an overkill sound insulation install with many layers.

I never did a complete write up, but I did 100% coverage of Sound Deadener (Buytl
RoboKarl,
Thanks for taking the time to document this process. I removed my headliner a couple years ago, also for the purpose of sound treatment. The only instructions I could find was an incomplete Youtube video. Like you, I was also stumped when discovering the "Speaker Exciters". I first thought they might be alarms but after researching and finding their nomenclature, I left them disconnected.

For anyone else following this post and considering sound treating their roof, there is a lot of space between the roof and headliner so you can go heavy on material. I used foil backed butyl them layered closed cel acoustic foam over it.
Ya, doesn’t it make a world of a difference when it rains. I did butyl and CCF & still had extra room. I wish I put OCF (Open cell Foam) on it before I put it all back together tho.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
If you need any advice I stripped my entire 2013 FJ last May. I installed a stereo and did an overkill sound insulation install with many layers.

I never did a complete write up, but I did 100% coverage of Sound Deadener (Buytl


Ya, doesn’t it make a world of a difference when it rains. I did butyl and CCF & still had extra room. I wish I put OCF (Open cell Foam) on it before I put it all back together tho.
I did butyl foil/killmatt on the roof and then some reflectix on top of that for insulation. The killmatt made all the difference in the world - night and day when you take a listen before and after.

I wish I would have done some closed cell foam up there as well seeing how there was plenty space for killmatt, ccf and insulation but by the point I realized I still had plenty extra space I was ready to get my headliner out of my living room (I don't have a garage) and back into the FJ!

If anyone out there is going to do some sound treatment one part of their FJ I would highly recommend under the headliner. The thin metal roof paired with the dead space between that and the headliner (which is pretty resonate It's self) makes the perfect resonant chamber for amplifying driving noise, especially at speed.

Toyota should have at least put something up there - the roof rack alone is loud and if you throw a canoe or anything else up there it's just brutal without any sound deadening in place.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
& just an added note:

The best thing I did during the whole process was dropping my headliner off (most places will only do a full steam clean if the headliner is detached) to get cleaned at my local auto detailer. It had water stains from roof leaks, hand prints, etc and was just nasty after the years. It cost me $35 for the cleaning and now my 14 year old headliner looks brand new!
1159776
 

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I did butyl foil/killmatt on the roof and then some reflectix on top of that for insulation. The killmatt made all the difference in the world - night and day when you take a listen before and after.

I wish I would have done some closed cell foam up there as well seeing how there was plenty space for killmatt, ccf and insulation but by the point I realized I still had plenty extra space I was ready to get my headliner out of my living room (I don't have a garage) and back into the FJ!

If anyone out there is going to do some sound treatment one part of their FJ I would highly recommend under the headliner. The thin metal roof paired with the dead space between that and the headliner (which is pretty resonate It's self) makes the perfect resonant chamber for amplifying driving noise, especially at speed.

Toyota should have at least put something up there - the roof rack alone is loud and if you throw a canoe or anything else up there it's just brutal without any sound deadening in place.

I’m actually super happy they didn’t put any crap up there - it made it easier to work on it. Unlike under passenger and driver side flooring they used this hard glue that took me hours to remove. HELL!

and ya same situation with me, headliner & interior panels took over my living room 🤣... take a look at my Instagram story. I look back at it and it truely reminds me how bored we got during covid. I went super OCD on everything .
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1159782
 

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& just an added note:

The best thing I did during the whole process was dropping my headliner off (most places will only do a full steam clean if the headliner is detached) to get cleaned at my local auto detailer. It had water stains from roof leaks, hand prints, etc and was just nasty after the years. It cost me $35 for the cleaning and now my 14 year old headliner looks brand new! View attachment 1159776
Wow that’s amazing. I’m lucky mine isn’t that dirty at all only a few spots but that’s a great trick I had no clue they would do that!
 

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I did butyl foil/killmatt on the roof and then some reflectix on top of that for insulation. The killmatt made all the difference in the world - night and day when you take a listen before and after.

I wish I would have done some closed cell foam up there as well seeing how there was plenty space for killmatt, ccf and insulation but by the point I realized I still had plenty extra space I was ready to get my headliner out of my living room (I don't have a garage) and back into the FJ!

If anyone out there is going to do some sound treatment one part of their FJ I would highly recommend under the headliner. The thin metal roof paired with the dead space between that and the headliner (which is pretty resonate It's self) makes the perfect resonant chamber for amplifying driving noise, especially at speed.

Toyota should have at least put something up there - the roof rack alone is loud and if you throw a canoe or anything else up there it's just brutal without any sound deadening in place.

I am planning to cut part of my fj but wanted to know how far to go to sound deffen everything for freeway noise and also for stereo/speaker replacement
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I am planning to cut part of my fj but wanted to know how far to go to sound deffen everything for freeway noise and also for stereo/speaker replacement
Not sure what you mean by "cut part of my fj"

Feel free to message me if you have any questions regarding soundproofing, like I said I'll be posting a thread about it soon
 

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I am planning to cut part of my fj but wanted to know how far to go to sound deffen everything for freeway noise and also for stereo/speaker replacement
It all depends how extreme you want to go. After completing mine, I would have done things a little differently. Using second skin products would have made my life way easier and worth the little extra money.
Doing the roof, all 5 doors and floor with 2 products (Damplifier Deadening Mat) & (LUXURY LINER PRO) which is a mix of CCF & MLV will have great results.

IF YOU CAN AFFORD IT, and want to take accoustics to the next level add OCF “open cell foam” (otherwise known as Second Skins Mega Zorbe™ - Hydrophobic Melamine Foam). I highly suggest starting a chat on their website to discuss everything. Today they are offering 20% discount on products too which is best I’ve ever seen. They are very good at helping you buy the right amount of product. Second skin is much easier to work with then other brands and wish I only used them when I did my FJ. I’m in Vegas if you are ever around and want to see/hear the difference.
Before purchasing text me for a promo code as well. (408)896-5160 also willing to answer any questions you may have.

1159874
1159875
1159878
 

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It all depends how extreme you want to go. After completing mine, I would have done things a little differently. Using second skin products would have made my life way easier and worth the little extra money.
Doing the roof, all 5 doors and floor with 2 products (Damplifier Deadening Mat) & (LUXURY LINER PRO) which is a mix of CCF & MLV will have great results.

IF YOU CAN AFFORD IT, and want to take accoustics to the next level add OCF “open cell foam” (otherwise known as Second Skins Mega Zorbe™ - Hydrophobic Melamine Foam). I highly suggest starting a chat on their website to discuss everything. Today they are offering 20% discount on products too which is best I’ve ever seen. They are very good at helping you buy the right amount of product. Second skin is much easier to work with then other brands and wish I only used them when I did my FJ. I’m in Vegas if you are ever around and want to see/hear the difference.
Before purchasing text me for a promo code as well. (408)896-5160 also willing to answer any questions you may have.

View attachment 1159874 View attachment 1159875 View attachment 1159878
yes, im in vegas aswell maybe we can meet up ill DM you my info. would help so im not recreating the wheel. thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
You may be able to drop the back portion down a bit but it would still require you to remove the lower & upper rear window and wheel well panels along with the rear dome light, coat hooks and a few retainer clips. All of that is detailed in the post, you'll just have to backtrack.

I don't know how you plan to route your antenna wire but it may be easier to use a fish tape or something and try to push the end of the antenna cable through the top of the rear window panel.

Many posts on antenna installation/cable routing on the forum.

.https://www.fjcruiserforums.com/threads/cb-antenna-cable-routing-question.20752/#post-335172
 

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Quick question for you guys on this. So I removed my oem roof rack and the little piece that the roof rack bolts are screwed into, fell off into my headliner, but only on the very front drivers corner and the very rear passenger corner. I’m wondering if you think it’s possible to only drop the headliner a little bit on each of these corners just enough to get the piece back in place. Thanks for your help!
 

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Quick question for you guys on this. So I removed my oem roof rack and the little piece that the roof rack bolts are screwed into, fell off into my headliner, but only on the very front drivers corner and the very rear passenger corner. I’m wondering if you think it’s possible to only drop the headliner a little bit on each of these corners just enough to get the piece back in place. Thanks for your help!
The Same thing happaned to me. First off be very careful with headliner, the airbags run along both sides so make sure you disconnect the battery before messing with that. Plus it can easily be damaged. (Once you fully remove it you will be relieved you didn’t try to fish it out)

yes it may seem like a lot of work but if you don’t replace the hardware properly and seal the hole with silicone from the top and bottom you risk a future water leak that could cause a ton of damage. It’s not worth it.

Just remove the entire headliner and at the same time put some insulation up there. (Butyl 25% & Closed Cell Foam) & disconnect those vibration speakers.

Make the best of a bad situation because you need to reinstall the brackets and seal that hole VERY WELL from the inside and you can damages the headliner + you will have a leak down the line that will cause a lot of damage.

If you need any tips look at my story on my Instagram. It’s a headache to remove it but there is a number of things you can complete at the same time that makes it worth it.

Another unique thing I found out after the fact is that the dealership will actually STEAM CLEAN the headliner for like 50$ (could be wrong about the cost) and make it look brand new. Something I would do if I ever take it out again. (but must be fully removed)

It is for these reasons I insulated the entire vehicle, and rewired my stereo and it’s 2x quieter and music sounds pristine now.

Plus, when it rains it doesn’t sound someone is throwing quarters at your roof lol
 
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