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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I dont know if this has been put up here before.This is the write up of my third inner replacement. First one i broke in 'arf, the second and this one were opposite sides of the vehicle and both had hugely excessive play. THis side had probably about 1/2inch or so and everytime i hit a bump or curb my steering would feel loose. I was going to do it last year but just kept dealing with it coz i was lazy, but eventually got sick of the 1/2 inch movement in my LHS front tyre.

SO here goes.

I did this on a lift, but the other times i have done it was on the ground. It does make it easier to bend the lock washer tabs over on the lift, but it is possible without.

Tools

You need

14mm Wrench
19mm wrench
22mm Wrench
Pliers
36mm Wrench/Pipe Wrench/Multi grips (any of these will work)
Hammer
Assorted punches - I use one that is 1 foot long and a shorter one.
Paint pen of some description

Step one, turn the wheel full lock to the side you are replacing, and remove the boot. If you have the tools you can keep the large clamp for reuse, i tend to just break it with a long flat blade and zip tie it back on when i am done. (chances are i'll just be replacing the inner again in the next year or so lol) Also undo the small clamp and slide the boot down the shaft.



Step two, remove the split pin from the castle nut on the tie rod ball joint, and then loosen the castle nut.
I personally like the quickness of removing the ball joint form the knuckle this way - leave the nut on only a couple of threads, grab a hammer and hit the knuckle section between the ball joint a couple of times, it will jar the ball joint loose. I do this anytime i have a similiar ball joint and never had any problems, provided your a good shot with the hammer. If not, i reocmmend using a fork or ball joint remover (and if your that way inclined, make sure you have one)



At this stage you can remove the outer tie rod end (the bit with the ball joint) as you will most likely need it on the new inner section. With the paint pen, mark a line on both the inner and outer sections so you can count how many turns you unwind the outer so you can put it back on correctly later on without affecting your wheel alignment. After you have marked it, you can either hold the outer tie rod end with a 19mm wrench (there is a flat section for it) or the inner tie rod end with a 14mm wrench and undo the center 22mm jam nut. This will then alow you to spin the outer tie rod end off. Remember to count the turns! The other thing you can do is wrap electrical tape around the exposed threads of the Inner tie rod end, that way if you forget how many threads you have turned it you can re-count.





Step three, Fold the tabs on the lockwasher over so you the Inner tie rod ball joint is unrestricted.



Step four, Unscrew the inner ball joint with your choice of tool (36mm wrench, pipe wrench, multi-grips). Undo it all the way and you will have a inner tie rod in your hands.


yes in this pic i left the outer tie rod attached.


Refit is the reverse of removal, remembering the locktite on the threads. The lock tab for the inner ball joint can be a real PITA to kick over, but if you take your time you'll figure it out (normaly you can fold one side over from underneath, and the other from through the little "window" at the frame)




You will need the boot and original clamp from the old inner end.
put the original clamp on the small end of the boot and i use a zip tie for the large end of the boot.



Wind the outer tie rod end the same amount of turns as you prevoisly recorded and do it all up nice and snug (remember this is YOUR steering, its kinda important)


NEW split pin on the tie rod ball join and your all set to go, and now you have a trail spare (assuming you just replaced your old one coz it had excessive play and wasnt actually snapped in half)

As usual, if you royally screw up somehow, you have no-one but yourself to blame.
 

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Thanks for the info Ben :)

I don't have to do this, but just having these kinds of resources out there is great!

Thanks for the write up!
 

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Be careful using a fork to remove the tie rods. It can rip the rubber boot and I couldn't find just the boots to replace. I had to buy both tie rod ends with the new boots attached! The instuctions from Toyota call for using a puller on the ends.
 

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Did u notice any clicking or popping with the tie rod? There seems to be a small amount of play in my tie rod. However, I have checked multiple things and it seems this click/pop is coming from the innner tie rod. Outer looks good.....would the inner make this type of noise?
 

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Did u notice any clicking or popping with the tie rod? There seems to be a small amount of play in my tie rod. However, I have checked multiple things and it seems this click/pop is coming from the innner tie rod. Outer looks good.....would the inner make this type of noise?
This may be your magic cure! I've had this annoying popping sound for over a year. I'm gonna check it out this wknd. Maybe this is the problem area all along, the last thing to check.:lol:
 

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Yes - especially when taking off camber road exits (driveways, mall entrances etc)
This may be your magic cure! I've had this annoying popping sound for over a year. I'm gonna check it out this wknd. Maybe this is the problem area all along, the last thing to check.:lol:
Thanks for the info! I may have finally discovered my annoying pop. Now I have to figure out if I want to replace it myself or not. Any idea where the cheapest place is to pick up a new inner?

I will definitely use this thread as a guide for replacement.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
At the moment toyota is the only one I know of that sell a Tie Rod for the FJC. However I helped a friend (ExpatOz) Do his inner tie rods on his 4Runner last weekend and the inner tie rod is the same except the FJ one is 1/2in longer. This shouldn't affect the vehicle as it should be able to be accomodated by the outer tie rod end location. The good thing is the 4rnr tie rod ends can be picked up for anywhere from $20 - 50 as Aftermakret parts.
We do have some photos to show the difference in length. I'm going to order some 4rnr ones and use those, and I'll let ya'all know how it works out
 

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At the moment toyota is the only one I know of that sell a Tie Rod for the FJC. However I helped a friend (ExpatOz) Do his inner tie rods on his 4Runner last weekend and the inner tie rod is the same except the FJ one is 1/2in longer. This shouldn't affect the vehicle as it should be able to be accomodated by the outer tie rod end location. The good thing is the 4rnr tie rod ends can be picked up for anywhere from $20 - 50 as Aftermakret parts.
We do have some photos to show the difference in length. I'm going to order some 4rnr ones and use those, and I'll let ya'all know how it works out
That would certainly be a better price! $110 for the FJ inner is a little much I think.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
OK, more on Tie Rod Ends 101.

Comparison between a V8 4 Runner Inner TRE and a FJC Inner TRE.

The FJ has its chamfer in a different location and is about 1/2 in longer then the v8 Runner ITRE. V8 4R ITRE Left, FJC right. Everything else is identical.



Dissection of a ITRE. I cut this one up. It was removed becasue of excessive play in the left wheel. It would move and make noise while hitting bumps/going over drains etc. Probably had about 1/2 in movement left to right while supported under the LCA by a jack.

Cut an FJ ITRE up.


The three main peices


The Cup, and bushing


See the cup on this one was excessivly worn around the edges


And on the inside surface, it was full of pits and grooves



As well as a chunk of it that had broken off at some stage


Another bushing the one around the ball joint rides on. Both bushings have grooves on the mating surfaces to prevent rotation of the bushing - they lock into place.






Anyway, thought Id share, might help somehow!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Fitted the 4runner ITREs to my vehicle today. Fits nice. The 4r ITREs have 4 threads less lenght then the FJC ones at the point where the Outer Tie Rod End screws on - so in my case I unwound the OTRE off the FJC ITRE 21 turns, wound it back onto the 4runner ITRE 17 turns put me in the exact same alignment / steering wheel position as i started.

At $37 each the 4runner ITREs are a nice affordable way to replace these when they go bad instead of toyotas $130.

I would like to try ALL Pros link, but I cant afford to spend 600 on steering links just yet.

I took a whole bunch of new photos to re-write the how-to. Will do that during the week.
 

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Any chance on getting the pics back up?
 
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