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My 'roo bar arrived Friday, and I was pretty happy that it got here before the holiday weekend, leaving me plenty of time to put it on. I now am somewhat protected from the dangerous 'roos that are spreading all over Florida. :lol:
Pros:
1) Inexpensive
2) I like the way it looks
3) Adds a little protection to the front
4) I like the way it looks
5) Offers a place to mount another pair of lights
6) I like the way it looks
7) Easy 20 minute installation
8) I like the way it looks
9) Has 13" ground clearance
Cons:
1) Cheap mounting bolts need to be replaced
2) Need to repaint mounting brackets before install
3) Made in China
4) You lose angle of attack despite 13" ground clearance
When I unpacked the bar, I noticed some very minor shipping damage to the main tube right where it mounts to the bracket on one side. I got a surprise when I got out the pliers to straighten it back out - this steel is tough stuff. I got it straightened out finally and touched up the scratches with Rustoleum black satin paint, which turned out to be an almost exact match. It's on the bottom of the bar where no one will see it anyway, I just didn't want it to rust.
So I moved on to the mounting brackets. Bad coating job. Some of the coating had been ground off by a grinder leaving bare metal where impefections were ground out of the metal. Really? Spots of bare metal? OK, no problem for me. Sand, prime bare spots, paint, install. I like laquer because it's easy to spray and almost idiot proof because it dries so quickly so that's what I used. After three coats of black laquer I deemed the brackets sufficently attractive and rust resistant. They can always be repainted later if needed. They look good for now. See pic.
- 1 can Rustoleum black laquer for painting brackets
- Some leftover primer that I already had for the bare spots on the brackets
- Some Rustoleum black satin enamel spray paint that I already had for touching up bar
Moving on to the mounting bolts, the 4-1/2" bolts provided to mount the brackets to the frame looked like the weakest point of the system to me, so into the trash they went. They are typical "grade 2" bolts (grade 4.8 metric), and I have busted too many of them over the years with only a wrench and a heavy hand. Off to Lowe's. Problem solved for under $10. I didn't feel a need to go all the way up to grade 8, so I went for grade 5.
- Four grade 5 hex cap screws 3/8-16 x 5
- Four grade 5 nuts 3/8-16
- Four hardened 3/8" split lock washers
Installation went smoothly. Used two crescent wrenches (one small and one large) and a socket wrench with extension for the four bracket mounting bolts. The instruction sheet is hilarious, with hand writing and hand drawn illustrations. :lol: OK, it's just six bolts. Throw the instructions away.
Leave everything slightly loose until you get everything aligned and then tighten everything last. Start by installing the left and right mounting brackets. Be sure to use large washers (I used the ones provided). Push two bolts per side up through the holes in the frame behind the front bumper, put a small crescent wrench on the nut on top of the frame to keep it from spinning and tighten bolts with a socket wrench with an extension. See pic from underneath FJ.
Have a helper hold the bar while you align and install the two large bolts that hold the bar to the brackets. Align everything to your satisfaction. If you need to, use an extra washer here and there to adjust, but I did not have to adjust anything. It went on perfectly the first time. Tighten everything down nice and tight and you are finished. Note: The large bolts that hold the bar to the brackets seem like they take forever to tighten. This is because the welded metal and nut that they screw into inside the bar are being pulled outward slightly as you tighten the bolts. Mine did finally tighten down. I will retighten them in a few days just to make sure. Don't forget the lock washers.
Pics attached. I would buy this bar again despite the extra work I had to put into it. I sort of expected that for $120 plus $30 shipping. No big deal. I just took a day and about $20 to make it right.
Truck Gear Direct
I recommend calling them after a few days to get your tracking number. My tracking number never showed up on their website or in my email, but they gave it to me when I called. They were prompt. I ordered Sat night and it arrived Friday afternoon.
This bar will protect against a bunch of road debris that I have encountered over the years such as plastic buckets, pieces of wood, shredded tires, etc. If you hit a deer at 70 MPH, I'm not sure this bar is going to stop all damage to your FJ, but I do think it will help absorb the impact some. It seems to be fairly sturdy, so long as you upgrade the mounting bolts. I don't mind the decrease in the angle of attack, and the 13" of clearance should be plenty for me. If I ever go on a trip where I might want the angle of attack back, it's a 10 minute job to remove the four bolts and leave the bar at home.
Someone stated in the Hunter fog light thread here on the forum that the silver trim valance behind the bar can be removed (with patience) without removing the whole bumper. How can I get a wrench on the two top nuts? I want that awful silver trim piece painted black ASAP. Ideas? Anyone done this without removing the whole front bumper?
Now, I have to go find some of those dangerous Florida kangaroos and mow 'em down with my new 'roo bar. :bigthumb:
-FJ Florida-
Pros:
1) Inexpensive
2) I like the way it looks
3) Adds a little protection to the front
4) I like the way it looks
5) Offers a place to mount another pair of lights
6) I like the way it looks
7) Easy 20 minute installation
8) I like the way it looks
9) Has 13" ground clearance
Cons:
1) Cheap mounting bolts need to be replaced
2) Need to repaint mounting brackets before install
3) Made in China
4) You lose angle of attack despite 13" ground clearance
When I unpacked the bar, I noticed some very minor shipping damage to the main tube right where it mounts to the bracket on one side. I got a surprise when I got out the pliers to straighten it back out - this steel is tough stuff. I got it straightened out finally and touched up the scratches with Rustoleum black satin paint, which turned out to be an almost exact match. It's on the bottom of the bar where no one will see it anyway, I just didn't want it to rust.
So I moved on to the mounting brackets. Bad coating job. Some of the coating had been ground off by a grinder leaving bare metal where impefections were ground out of the metal. Really? Spots of bare metal? OK, no problem for me. Sand, prime bare spots, paint, install. I like laquer because it's easy to spray and almost idiot proof because it dries so quickly so that's what I used. After three coats of black laquer I deemed the brackets sufficently attractive and rust resistant. They can always be repainted later if needed. They look good for now. See pic.
- 1 can Rustoleum black laquer for painting brackets
- Some leftover primer that I already had for the bare spots on the brackets
- Some Rustoleum black satin enamel spray paint that I already had for touching up bar
Moving on to the mounting bolts, the 4-1/2" bolts provided to mount the brackets to the frame looked like the weakest point of the system to me, so into the trash they went. They are typical "grade 2" bolts (grade 4.8 metric), and I have busted too many of them over the years with only a wrench and a heavy hand. Off to Lowe's. Problem solved for under $10. I didn't feel a need to go all the way up to grade 8, so I went for grade 5.
- Four grade 5 hex cap screws 3/8-16 x 5
- Four grade 5 nuts 3/8-16
- Four hardened 3/8" split lock washers
Installation went smoothly. Used two crescent wrenches (one small and one large) and a socket wrench with extension for the four bracket mounting bolts. The instruction sheet is hilarious, with hand writing and hand drawn illustrations. :lol: OK, it's just six bolts. Throw the instructions away.
Leave everything slightly loose until you get everything aligned and then tighten everything last. Start by installing the left and right mounting brackets. Be sure to use large washers (I used the ones provided). Push two bolts per side up through the holes in the frame behind the front bumper, put a small crescent wrench on the nut on top of the frame to keep it from spinning and tighten bolts with a socket wrench with an extension. See pic from underneath FJ.
Have a helper hold the bar while you align and install the two large bolts that hold the bar to the brackets. Align everything to your satisfaction. If you need to, use an extra washer here and there to adjust, but I did not have to adjust anything. It went on perfectly the first time. Tighten everything down nice and tight and you are finished. Note: The large bolts that hold the bar to the brackets seem like they take forever to tighten. This is because the welded metal and nut that they screw into inside the bar are being pulled outward slightly as you tighten the bolts. Mine did finally tighten down. I will retighten them in a few days just to make sure. Don't forget the lock washers.
Pics attached. I would buy this bar again despite the extra work I had to put into it. I sort of expected that for $120 plus $30 shipping. No big deal. I just took a day and about $20 to make it right.
Truck Gear Direct
I recommend calling them after a few days to get your tracking number. My tracking number never showed up on their website or in my email, but they gave it to me when I called. They were prompt. I ordered Sat night and it arrived Friday afternoon.
This bar will protect against a bunch of road debris that I have encountered over the years such as plastic buckets, pieces of wood, shredded tires, etc. If you hit a deer at 70 MPH, I'm not sure this bar is going to stop all damage to your FJ, but I do think it will help absorb the impact some. It seems to be fairly sturdy, so long as you upgrade the mounting bolts. I don't mind the decrease in the angle of attack, and the 13" of clearance should be plenty for me. If I ever go on a trip where I might want the angle of attack back, it's a 10 minute job to remove the four bolts and leave the bar at home.
Someone stated in the Hunter fog light thread here on the forum that the silver trim valance behind the bar can be removed (with patience) without removing the whole bumper. How can I get a wrench on the two top nuts? I want that awful silver trim piece painted black ASAP. Ideas? Anyone done this without removing the whole front bumper?
Now, I have to go find some of those dangerous Florida kangaroos and mow 'em down with my new 'roo bar. :bigthumb:
-FJ Florida-
