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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
My 'roo bar arrived Friday, and I was pretty happy that it got here before the holiday weekend, leaving me plenty of time to put it on. I now am somewhat protected from the dangerous 'roos that are spreading all over Florida. :lol:

Pros:

1) Inexpensive
2) I like the way it looks
3) Adds a little protection to the front
4) I like the way it looks
5) Offers a place to mount another pair of lights
6) I like the way it looks
7) Easy 20 minute installation
8) I like the way it looks
9) Has 13" ground clearance

Cons:

1) Cheap mounting bolts need to be replaced
2) Need to repaint mounting brackets before install
3) Made in China
4) You lose angle of attack despite 13" ground clearance

When I unpacked the bar, I noticed some very minor shipping damage to the main tube right where it mounts to the bracket on one side. I got a surprise when I got out the pliers to straighten it back out - this steel is tough stuff. I got it straightened out finally and touched up the scratches with Rustoleum black satin paint, which turned out to be an almost exact match. It's on the bottom of the bar where no one will see it anyway, I just didn't want it to rust.

So I moved on to the mounting brackets. Bad coating job. Some of the coating had been ground off by a grinder leaving bare metal where impefections were ground out of the metal. Really? Spots of bare metal? OK, no problem for me. Sand, prime bare spots, paint, install. I like laquer because it's easy to spray and almost idiot proof because it dries so quickly so that's what I used. After three coats of black laquer I deemed the brackets sufficently attractive and rust resistant. They can always be repainted later if needed. They look good for now. See pic.

- 1 can Rustoleum black laquer for painting brackets
- Some leftover primer that I already had for the bare spots on the brackets
- Some Rustoleum black satin enamel spray paint that I already had for touching up bar

Moving on to the mounting bolts, the 4-1/2" bolts provided to mount the brackets to the frame looked like the weakest point of the system to me, so into the trash they went. They are typical "grade 2" bolts (grade 4.8 metric), and I have busted too many of them over the years with only a wrench and a heavy hand. Off to Lowe's. Problem solved for under $10. I didn't feel a need to go all the way up to grade 8, so I went for grade 5.

- Four grade 5 hex cap screws 3/8-16 x 5
- Four grade 5 nuts 3/8-16
- Four hardened 3/8" split lock washers

Installation went smoothly. Used two crescent wrenches (one small and one large) and a socket wrench with extension for the four bracket mounting bolts. The instruction sheet is hilarious, with hand writing and hand drawn illustrations. :lol: OK, it's just six bolts. Throw the instructions away.

Leave everything slightly loose until you get everything aligned and then tighten everything last. Start by installing the left and right mounting brackets. Be sure to use large washers (I used the ones provided). Push two bolts per side up through the holes in the frame behind the front bumper, put a small crescent wrench on the nut on top of the frame to keep it from spinning and tighten bolts with a socket wrench with an extension. See pic from underneath FJ.

Have a helper hold the bar while you align and install the two large bolts that hold the bar to the brackets. Align everything to your satisfaction. If you need to, use an extra washer here and there to adjust, but I did not have to adjust anything. It went on perfectly the first time. Tighten everything down nice and tight and you are finished. Note: The large bolts that hold the bar to the brackets seem like they take forever to tighten. This is because the welded metal and nut that they screw into inside the bar are being pulled outward slightly as you tighten the bolts. Mine did finally tighten down. I will retighten them in a few days just to make sure. Don't forget the lock washers.

Pics attached. I would buy this bar again despite the extra work I had to put into it. I sort of expected that for $120 plus $30 shipping. No big deal. I just took a day and about $20 to make it right.

Truck Gear Direct

I recommend calling them after a few days to get your tracking number. My tracking number never showed up on their website or in my email, but they gave it to me when I called. They were prompt. I ordered Sat night and it arrived Friday afternoon.

This bar will protect against a bunch of road debris that I have encountered over the years such as plastic buckets, pieces of wood, shredded tires, etc. If you hit a deer at 70 MPH, I'm not sure this bar is going to stop all damage to your FJ, but I do think it will help absorb the impact some. It seems to be fairly sturdy, so long as you upgrade the mounting bolts. I don't mind the decrease in the angle of attack, and the 13" of clearance should be plenty for me. If I ever go on a trip where I might want the angle of attack back, it's a 10 minute job to remove the four bolts and leave the bar at home.

Someone stated in the Hunter fog light thread here on the forum that the silver trim valance behind the bar can be removed (with patience) without removing the whole bumper. How can I get a wrench on the two top nuts? I want that awful silver trim piece painted black ASAP. Ideas? Anyone done this without removing the whole front bumper?

Now, I have to go find some of those dangerous Florida kangaroos and mow 'em down with my new 'roo bar. :bigthumb:

-FJ Florida-
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Another nice post FJ... Great pics too. -R
Don't encourage me ... it will only lead to me spending more money on more mods and, as usual, spending more time under the FJ than I do in it! :lol:

-FJ Florida-
 

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Discussion Starter #4
If you loosen the clips at the bottom you can pry the valance out and find the 10mm nuts along the top. Undo them and voila it is off. Took me awhile and it is tight....But doable.
Hmmmmmmmm ... I know what I am doing tomorrow. More time under the FJ than in it. Thanks for the tip. I will try it and post success with pics or failure with questions.

-FJ Florida-
 

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Nice looking, affordable mod...thanks. It could be a good stand-in for a new front bumper that the CFO just nixed until next year.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Nice looking, affordable mod...thanks. It could be a good stand-in for a new front bumper that the CFO just nixed until next year.
Lemme guess CFO = wife? :lol:

When I was working in the ultra high end audio industry, home audio systems had to pass the "WAF" test ... Wife Acceptance Factor.

Oh, I thought of an added benefit of the 'roo bar - protection against runaway shopping carts. I'd rather touch up the bar than the FJ.

-FJ Florida-
 

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Lemme guess CFO = wife? :lol:

When I was working in the ultra high end audio industry, home audio systems had to pass the "WAF" test ... Wife Acceptance Factor.

Oh, I thought of an added benefit of the 'roo bar - protection against runaway shopping carts. I'd rather touch up the bar than the FJ.

-FJ Florida-
Installing this bar could result in world peace, but if I spend any more $$$ on this rig my wife/cfo is gonna fire me!
 

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Looks great!
 

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The bull bar looks great. I have read a couple of threads that deal with removing the silver paint off various parts of the FJ. I know from experience that a good high pressure washer will take the paint off.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The bull bar looks great. I have read a couple of threads that deal with removing the silver paint off various parts of the FJ. I know from experience that a good high pressure washer will take the paint off.
I was wondering if it was black underneath. I think I read somewhere here that the "wings" are black underneath that silver paint. Hey Toyota, just leave the paint off please and give us black plastic.

-FJ Florida-
 

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First, I love the bull bar and will be ordering in a few minutes lol. Second, take the bumper off and paint. It is soooooooooooooo easy to do and there is less risk prying on plastic parts that will most likely snap. They basic silver parts are not cheap but affordale in the classifieds. I chose to buy all the TT parts from TRDsparks.com. $1000 later I was done, except for the rear valance W/ tow hitch. I would havebought that too, but it was not avail w/ tow hitch first, then avail only w/ entire tow hitch assembly, then finally avail seperately for $64 + S&H. So I decided to paint using dupli-color bed liner spray. Sanded first w/ 320 grit, 3 coats dulpi-color adhesion promotor the their bed liner spray. Came out great, pic attached. Though I do like the look of the TT parts better, and not mad that I paid for them (TRDsparks.com is an awesome dealer), but it is another option. FJ Florida, did you find lights for the bar?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
First, I love the bull bar and will be ordering in a few minutes lol. Second, take the bumper off and paint.

FJ Florida, did you find lights for the bar?
Yes, I have decided to do the painting and transmission cooler all at once. I will make my life simpler by removing everything.

Yes, I found PIAA 4" driving lights that I like a lot and which should fit, but haven't ordered them due to $$$$. Amazon.com: PIAA 5192 510 Series SMR Xtreme White Driving Lamp - Set of 2: Automotive They come with a wiring harness and switch, but there are many switch options out there, including the approximately $60 Toyota fog light switch.

Fog lights instead of driving lights:


Mods are running me out of time and $$$$. Seems like a common problem here.

-FJ Florida-
 

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Discussion Starter #13
So I decided to paint using dupli-color bed liner spray. Sanded first w/ 320 grit, 3 coats dulpi-color adhesion promotor the their bed liner spray.
You know, that silver valance is so low it's just begging for damage from rocks and other road debris. Maybe black bedliner is the ultimate answer.

-FJ Florida-
 

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Yeah the bedliner was a really easy application and dry in 2 hours!
 

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Funny, but when you buy stuff from China, which you list as a "con", in order to keep things inexpensive, which you list as a "pro", it tends to encourage more people from China to make more stuff. China can't be too much of a "con" then, can it?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Funny, but when you buy stuff from China, which you list as a "con", in order to keep things inexpensive, which you list as a "pro", it tends to encourage more people from China to make more stuff. China can't be too much of a "con" then, can it?
Forum rule: "Additionally, there is no thread crapping. This goes hand in hand with having nothing constructive to offer. If you feel like flinging poo, do it in your own thread and not in your fellow man's."

I posted information that people can use to evaluate their own decision to purchase a bar made in China or not.

-FJ Florida-
 

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I have the exact same bull guard. I got mine from eBay and I think the dealer was in Houston. I put some kc slimlites and changed the bulbs to silverstars to compliment my silverstar ultra headlights. My lights tend to shake a bit with bumps in the road. Let me know if you have this problem. It bugs me and I need a solution.

Side note, I tried the black out project by removing the paint. Under the silver paint it is black just like the tt parts. But on the parts I had there were some imperfections in the plastic I didn't like. I used aircraft paint remover and it worked great.
 

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Forum rule: "Additionally, there is no thread crapping. This goes hand in hand with having nothing constructive to offer. If you feel like flinging poo, do it in your own thread and not in your fellow man's."

I posted information that people can use to evaluate their own decision to purchase a bar made in China or not.

-FJ Florida-
Forgive me.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I have the exact same bull guard. I got mine from eBay and I think the dealer was in Houston.
They ship from Houston, TX. They sell from an ebay store and also direct from their web site. I see this week it is $10 less on ebay than I paid at their website (total including shipping). When I bought mine it was exactly the opposite. Oh well. Be sure to check both to see which one is the least expensive.

One more note, there basically is no warranty since you have to pay shipping both ways and also a prorated amount (up to 50% of the purchase price after one year).

"This warranty does not apply to the rust/corrosion of the mounting brackets. If the grille guard is rusting, Hunter will refinish the product at no cost to the customer. The purchaser will only be responsible for the freight cost to and from our company."

For any warranty claim the customer will be responsible for all shipping charges both to and from our warehouse and depending on the date of purchase will be responsible for additional prorated charges. Within the first 30 days of purchase, the customer will not be responsible for any additional charges. For claims between 30 days and six (6) months of purchase the customer will be responsible for an additional 25% of the original purchase price. For claims between six (6) months and twelve (12) months of original purchase will be responsible for an additional 35% of the original purchase price. For claims after one (1) year of purchase the customer will be responsible for an additional 50% of the original purchase price.

Source: Truck Gear Direct

Anyway, I would buy it again. If it rusts, either I'll fix it or toss it. I need to go wax it.

I put some kc slimlites and changed the bulbs to silverstars to compliment my silverstar ultra headlights. My lights tend to shake a bit with bumps in the road. Let me know if you have this problem. It bugs me and I need a solution.
Got a link to those lights? Also, how do you like them and how difficult was the installation? With the lights shaking, which part is the most flexible - the whole bar (push down on it hard), or the bolt on light mounting brackets, which have rubber pads behind them, or the light mounts themselves? Find the weakest link and you will find the answer. I have not installed lights yet, and I would be happy to know what you find out.

Side note, I tried the black out project by removing the paint. Under the silver paint it is black just like the tt parts. But on the parts I had there were some imperfections in the plastic I didn't like. I used aircraft paint remover and it worked great.
Interesting. I wish Toyota would do us a favor and leave them black. People who want silver can have them painted silver instead of us trying to turn them black again. I'll solve the "silver problem" when I remove everything to install my transmission cooler (whenever that is - maybe over the 4th of July weekend).

-FJ Florida-
 

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aircraft paint removing is the best stuff on the planet!!!!!!!!!!!! over the weekend i was painting my 07 alloy wheels and completely forgot about the "only use in tempetures 60-90 degree" part in the directions and it was 105 here in south louisiana. so the paint was all messed up and gritty so i had to take it off. started out the a putty knife and paint thinner until if found this stuff and within 15 minutes it was all off! if you use it watch out because the fumes are very strong
 
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