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I cracked the top 5 boys. Top 5 longest builds in the history of this forum that is. :lol: Check out the views though, not even close. Ha!

This is sorted by number of replies. Still much to do and places to go!

1117361
 

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For now i will use my 14s . we are changing the tops from stem to bolt through . Right now i do not see a reason to go to a 3 link rear . but that could change lol the biggest thing for me is getting those shocks up off the rocks
 

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Nice. In hindsight that's prolly what I shoulda done - cut into the body a little to fit my shocks. I guess I can always go back and re do it. It'll cost a couple bucks and about 20 hours worth of work! I'm gonna center my axle a little better (requires some mods to my panhard actually) and shorten the straps about another 1/4" and see if I can take off the wheel spacers. I'll be intersted to see how far you have to go on the body cutting.

I need to get this thing on a trail to test some things too.
 

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Homemade dead pedal

My bones offroad dead pedal still relies on the plastic clips, and those were not working out for me. Hitting bumps on steep obstacles would dislodge the dead pedal adding to the chaos of the situation so I needed to fix it. Mason had some extra 3/16" sheet cut out for his welding table to so I re-purposed it. In a little under 2 hours I had something that will work. Yes its super heavy duty but I didn't have enough thinner scrap metal so 3/16" will have to do. Skateboard tape added for some traction.

I think I'm gonna have to cut off the studs on the body and weld on some bolts. They're not M6 so I don't know what thread they are. They could be a little longer anyway. So its not installed yet.

20191129_124526.jpg

20191130_122146.jpg
 

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So that's what a dead pedal is. :LOL: And here I've been thinking it's some gizmo to keep you from stabbing the throttle too hard when rock crawling. I just call that a foot rest! :ROFLMAO:
 

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Have the same issue after guys that did the wiring for my light bar. Won't stay put. Do I hear something about a dead pedal in the works?
Rocker.jpg
Edit: Ahh, I saw the part about welding.
old.png
 

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Homemade dead pedal

My bones offroad dead pedal still relies on the plastic clips, and those were not working out for me. Hitting bumps on steep obstacles would dislodge the dead pedal adding to the chaos of the situation so I needed to fix it. Mason had some extra 3/16" sheet cut out for his welding table to so I re-purposed it. In a little under 2 hours I had something that will work. Yes its super heavy duty but I didn't have enough thinner scrap metal so 3/16" will have to do. Skateboard tape added for some traction.

I think I'm gonna have to cut off the studs on the body and weld on some bolts. They're not M6 so I don't know what thread they are. They could be a little longer anyway. So its not installed yet.

View attachment 1117587
View attachment 1117588
G'Day Dev,
Yoda, metric.....the threads will be either m6 x1.0 pitch...or M8 x 1.25 pitch...
pretty sure its one or other....but i'll check for you.
Cheers
Baz
ps, another thought....is it thread, or just a push on bolt.not actually threaded, just ribbed.
like the kick panel next to your other foot.
cheers
Baz
 

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G'Day Dev,
Yoda, metric.....the threads will be either m6 x1.0 pitch...or M8 x 1.25 pitch...
pretty sure its one or other....but i'll check for you.
Cheers
Baz
ps, another thought....is it thread, or just a push on bolt.not actually threaded, just ribbed.
like the kick panel next to your other foot.
cheers
Baz
It measures about 6mm OD but my M6-1.0 nut does not thread on. The stud is much coarser. The factory uses a plastic nut (that threads on not ribbed) so I'm guessing its just an oddball thread.
 

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It measures about 6mm OD but my M6-1.0 nut does not thread on. The stud is much coarser. The factory uses a plastic nut (that threads on not ribbed) so I'm guessing its just an oddball thread.
G'Day Dev,
Yes, that is odd ball.... standard pitch for an M6 is 1.0 .... fine pitch is 0.75 ... not really any other used....
unless in a previous life, some changed it out to SAE, or something weird ... I don't think Yoda would use anything else....
Cheers
Baz
 

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And not alot of room to run a dye over it and make it an m6x1.0 ...I'd imagine... at least you are young n flexible, bones still bend.... unlike us OF's .... lol
 

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G'Day Dev,
Here is a pic, from the service manual, showing the exploded view, in the yoda instructions it doesn't say what the bolt is, makes me think its not really a true bolt... but a push on type or plastic clip set up .... if it was a standard nut n bolt, the manual tells you what size wrench to use to remove / install it ... and it doesn't ... hence I don't think its a real bolt...
1117768
 

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Just a fwiw . you can get a 1310-1350 ujoint so you could use your Toyota D-line . i had that same 1350 yoke on my currie 9 inch . and ran a Toyota d-line
 

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Did not know that. Would have been nice to order that U joint and yoke from ECGS so I could easily go "1350 - 1350" when the time comes with a HD shaft. Would have saved me from removing the yoke is all.

Next time I build a Toyota I will do that. :D
 
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