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I would do bearing in an alternator if that was what had failed. Take into consideration TIS (time in service) of the alternator and available replacements.

I had an alternator on a Chrysler Town N Country that was what I thought a bad alternator bearing. I could hear it with a Christmas wrapping paper tube (it happened to be mom's car at Christmas). I found one at the local Napa and some discount auto supply store.

Before I started, I did a quick google and got a youtube video so I could see how to best approach and if needed any special tools. It turns out that there is a special pulley on the alternators that can go bad.

This pulley is a fuel efficiency thing. A one way pulley that does not cause drag on engine when you take your foot off the pedal. Known as an ADP (alternator decoupler pulley) I have no idea if this is installed on our vehicles, someone please advise. I don't see FJC listed on this Gates ADP flyer, but it just means Gates is not offering one for sale at the time of the printing. See Below

I was able to replace the pulley alone for about 130 as opposed to three hundred $omething for the rebuilt alternator with the "your gonna be replacing these parts for the rest of your life" warranty
 

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Help ! Replacing idler bearings , got the 3 idlers replaced , can't seem to get tensioner bearing to loosen . And thats the bad one ! Is it reverse thread ?
yup. You'll want to hold the tensioner in place to prevent it from swiniging while you turn the bolt out (left hand thread).

Cheers,
 

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Yes it sounds horrible....
Its loud as hell!


Phone sound recording isnt the best thou..

But like i said ive replaced all the pulleys/tensioner pulley



The whole thing sounds horrible to me. Especially intermittently when assuredly the compressor engages. Maybe I just need better speakers...:surprise
 

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Yes it sounds horrible....
Its loud as hell!


Phone sound recording isnt the best thou..

But like i said ive replaced all the pulleys/tensioner pulley
First thing I'd do is listen to each suspect part with something like a stethoscope. A piece of garden hose or even a wrapping paper 30" cardboard tube works pretty well.

Try to narrow down where the noise(s) are coming from.

Next, remove the fan (serp) belt and start it up. Ignore all the warnings and lights. Just run it for a less than a minute. You will not have cooling water circulating, or alternator refilling your battery, that's OK for just a few seconds, a minute or so.

This will tell you if the noise is actually from belt driven devices.

Oh, before you run it without the belt, spin all that stuff and see if anything makes a sound or feels rough to you by hand. All components should be smooth as silk on Carmen Electra's .... nevermind. I digress.

If you still hear your noise while running with the belt removed, unfortunately it may be that you have internal injuries and that may be outside of your skill set.

Need be said: when I suggest "run it", I mean parked at idle, maybe an occasional rev or two. I would not suggest taking the belt off and going to Moab for a trail ride. Nothing is foolproof for a talented fool.
 

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Took off the serp belt..
WOW so quiet now!!! Good news i guess.

Im 90% sure its from the a/c compressor.
Guess im going to have to have the A/C discharged, change the compressor, then have it recharged
 

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Took off the serp belt..
WOW so quiet now!!! Good news i guess.

Im 90% sure its from the a/c compressor.
Guess im going to have to have the A/C discharged, change the compressor, then have it recharged
If when you spin the compressor pulley by hand, if it is rough, you can just change the pulley without removing the compressor or evacuate the charge of the system. The pulley assembly has the bearing right in itself as well as the compressor shaft has a bearing also. Remember that the pulley has to free wheel when the A/C clutch is not engaged.

There is a pulley removal kit available for rent at some autoparts stores. Basically you buy the used kit and return it when done. You should be able to do the removal and replacement while still mounted to the vehicle.

Take it to an A/C shop and have them hook it up to the gauges and look at the operating pressures. Also try to figure out how many miles on the A/C compressor to determine if it would be worth your while to just change the pulley.

How many miles on the vehicle? What year?
 

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If when you spin the compressor pulley by hand, if it is rough, you can just change the pulley without removing the compressor or evacuate the charge of the system. The pulley assembly has the bearing right in itself as well as the compressor shaft has a bearing also. Remember that the pulley has to free wheel when the A/C clutch is not engaged.

There is a pulley removal kit available for rent at some autoparts stores. Basically you buy the used kit and return it when done. You should be able to do the removal and replacement while still mounted to the vehicle.

Take it to an A/C shop and have them hook it up to the gauges and look at the operating pressures. Also try to figure out how many miles on the A/C compressor to determine if it would be worth your while to just change the pulley.

How many miles on the vehicle? What year?
Yes the pulley is what i believe is causing the bad grinding noise which is mounted the compressor...
Where could i get a pulley?? I haven't found anything online other than just a compressor replacement.

I sat under it tonight and when the compressor is engaged its quiet, but when its not and just free spinning with the pulley its LOUD

There's 175,000kms on it
 

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Yes the pulley is what i believe is causing the bad grinding noise which is mounted the compressor...
Where could i get a pulley?? I haven't found anything online other than just a compressor replacement.

I sat under it tonight and when the compressor is engaged its quiet, but when its not and just free spinning with the pulley its LOUD

There's 175,000kms on it
Where are you located? If quoting KM's then I venture to guess we are not in Kansas.
 

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We arent in Kansas anymore... :)

Great white north my friend...
I am envious, you've got terrain! Plenty of excuses to engage the transfer case...

I did a quick google search and like you said, there was not a lot of pulley options. I did see a delete the compressor pulley that would take the place of the compressor.

With a 108 thousand miles on that compressor, it has done its job well. That is if it hasn't been replaced along the way.

Check with your auto parts store. See if they have one in stock or in a warehouse. If this was Becky's Honda Civic, I could pick one up in several parts houses.

Hold on, I just realized I was searching for a pulley and what we want is a "clutch"

Search "fj cruiser compressor clutch"
 

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This is the Toyota Part Number: 884102F010 for my 2010 FJ cruiser
It is as expensive as the compressor without the clutch 475USD plus shipping

That being said, 475 is for the OEM part, I am sure there is an aftermarket part available.

That is the trick though, you want to find a compressor clutch assembly.
Now, the aftermarket compressors I saw for sale here had the clutch assy included. You might want to consider getting a compressor, removing the clutch and installing on your truck, and keeping the compressor sealed up and ready on the shelf.

NOTE: Make sure you order your clutch for your make and model. I saw on Toyota parts they said there were possibly different parts for different years as they changed some components.

What year is your rig?
I just googled just "Part Number: 884102F010" and found it for 419USD

For 2008 Part Number: 8841035430 is 260 USD from Toyota Parts Direct
 

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You could try spraying electrical parts cleaner between the A/C clutch surfaces and see if that quiets it down without pulling the clutch, but you risk cleaning the front bearing of lubrication as well. Might be worth a try if your planning on pulling it off anyway.

DEWFPO
 
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I just started to get a whine with my Fj haven't looked into which it is coming from. My question is how bad is it to drive with a bad bearing?

I don't want to mess anything up but I won't have time to do the work for a few days.
 

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Usually it will just keep making noise with no issue. However, I would look at the pullies with the engine running and they shake, or are ****eyed, I wouldn't drive it another foot without replacing. Or if the belt is visibly worn or roughed up it means a pully isn't spinning properly and you want to replace the belt and pully immediately
 

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Just ordered the Gates idler pulleys and new belt for mine. It's not screeching yet but has had a slight grinding noise since dring through some water earlier this year. I'm hoping its one of the idlers but we will see. I should change the belt anyway and since I am in there its worth changing the easier pulleys.
 

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need some help guys, I checked my belt and I took it off and it looked fine so I put it back on and now its squeeling on and off, all the pulleys were smooth and the belt was fine......any advice????? should I loosen it up and re-route it again? or just change the belt out??? I've never been through water or mud.......
 
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