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2007 Black FJC
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Discussion Starter #21
OK, so, because i screwed up the drilling of the pin hole, the arms don't hold up well under fast offroad running over whoops and the like. Basically, the vibration unscrews the pin, then the arms can move more, and, well, it's a bad scene. The forces end up causing the spindle mounts to move and it's ugly.

Chris and I chatted a bit about this and it ended up looking like a latch might be the way to go.

What I ended up doing was installing a heavy duty latch and having it pull the arms until the lock tight against the aluminium spacer I installed (actually the spacer is very slightly too thin and the arms pull in just a little - will have to fix that).

I installed the latch and ran it this weekend. Was fine, except the prior running when the arms swung loose has broken the spindle mounts away from the bumper (they were bolted in previously on tapped holes into the bumper - said bolts had stripped the thread under the forces). So I think downstream there's going to be some welding in store - just in time for my dad to come back out for his summer holidays :)









 

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2007 Black FJC
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Discussion Starter #22

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2007 Black FJC
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Discussion Starter #23
Continuing my obsession with the Lucrum swing out...

I still wanted to figure out a way to have a stronger and more rigid system. I'm not crazy about the screw-in tie and also the arms were joining bowed in towards the back door.

We ended up coming up with a system involving antiluce fasteners. Now, when I searched for these parts, I could only come up with websites from the UK, Australia, etc. So, in English these parts are called "antiluce fasteners," but neither Ben (Australian) nor I (British) could figure out what the name for these parts would be in Yank :).

This is an antiluce. The top end piece can move 90 degrees from straight to up - a hole in a plate can slide over the piece when "straight out" and then can be locked up when the piece is rotated into the angle shown in the image:



So we welded two vertical mounts onto the two arms and bolted the antiluce fasteners through the rear bumper and through the frame.




Here's the device open and locked:




Now, these pieces have the nice feature that as they are vibrated, the mobile piece of the antiluce will tighten. This is great except when you finally want to open the rear gates. What I've ended up doing is putting a tiny mallet in the front top dash box, which can easily tap the antiluce free:



On the horizontal, we added a similar setup:




The antiluce is on the tire carrier side:



With the antiluce in place, the arms are now held almost perfectly straight:




I also welded the swingout pivot mounts directly to the top of the AllPro bumper. Now able to get rid of the damned screw thing. So to open, I just undo the latch and tap two of the antiluce fasteners. Vibration in the arms is now greatly damped by directly tying the arms to the bumper through the steel mounts. They should also add a fair amount of strength.

Finished product:

 

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Nice Write up! i see this double swingout from lucrum...

My english is bad...but i will try to explain what i thing is the problem....

Here my own custom fabrication...




First...there three kind of swingout assembly....the regular...about 1000lbs, the medium duty...about 1500lbs and the big one from 4x4Lab are rated about 3000lbs

For offroad...nothing else the the heavy duty one! but the one that you have is the small one....But i dont think is the problem....

If you see on my picture....the primary shaft of the swingout need to be welding in two different place. One pass of welding on the top and a another pass of welding 4" lower on the bottom...

When i study mechanical engineering I'd learn how to fix a part in the space....you need three to stop all rotation point, transalated moving. It need three fixing point...and the braquet that I see in person at rausch creek can move. There's nothing to stop rotation axe from the base...it can move, the flat plate can twist just a little bit.

Take a pencil between two finger...take it just by the erase of it...push the other end and you will see it is easy to move. Take the same pencil and put the erase in a small hole (or hard on the desk) and fix the middle with your two finger and now try to move the othe end...you will see is more stif!

I wish my last explaination is clear!

Good luck!
 

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2007 Black FJC
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Discussion Starter #25
First...there three kind of swingout assembly....the regular...about 1000lbs, the medium duty...about 1500lbs and the big one from 4x4Lab are rated about 3000lbs

For offroad...nothing else the the heavy duty one! but the one that you have is the small one....But i dont think is the problem....

If you see on my picture....the primary shaft of the swingout need to be welding in two different place. One pass of welding on the top and a another pass of welding 4" lower on the bottom...
Yeah, I had no choice in the spindle strength - I would have gone heavy if given the choice.

Do you have more photos illustrating the welding on the primary shaft? I think I need to see it to get an understanding.

Thanks!
 

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2007 Black FJC
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Discussion Starter #27
here a good picture....

and that the link of my Gallery...
Ah, yes. This is an issue with the Lucrum when used with an AllPro bumper. In all other bumpers, the Lucrum has a brace piece that looks just like your lower link. The AllPro is too small (has no open interior volume where this supported is supposed to be used) to allow this piece to be used.

If my changes, above, aren't enough to fix the motion problem, I'm going to have to cut the AP bumper up a bit :)
 

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2007 Black FJC
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Discussion Starter #28
Well, the rear swing out held up very well during a week long trip through UT and AZ in the summer - including maybe a couple hundred miles of pretty fast and bumpy offroading, so issues with stability have been completely resolved.

One remaining thing that I figured could be improved is having a "stop" that locked the arms open when open. In their default configuration, if the arm flies open (say if you're on a slope), then all that happens is the plastic head on piston gets stripped. Kind of annoying. I noticed a little latch on the end of a Kaymar swing out, and while I could not create anything quite as elegant, I ended up using some spring latches and welding a catch onto the base plate. Please forgive the world's worst welding... :mecry: (and residual Utah red dirt)

Spring latches on both arms:




The catches welded to the swing out base:



The arm latched open:
 

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Nice Mir'.... Good to see ya' around... Stick weld, no-gas wire, ?

Ohh, and hows the 897's working, still holding the weight ?......
 

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2007 Black FJC
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Discussion Starter #30
Nice Mir'.... Good to see ya' around... Stick weld, no-gas wire, ?

Ohh, and hows the 897's working, still holding the weight ?......
Yeah, it's good to be able to think FJ again! :)

Cheap-o-stick welder...

Still doing great back there on the 897's...
 

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2007 Black FJC
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Discussion Starter #31
Here are the original installation instructions from Lucrum (since you can't get them from Lucrum anymore). A few days ago, OROnorcal had asked me if I had them, and I couldn't find my old paper copies. After much searching, I did have the electronic copies. Attached are PDF versions.
 

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