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Ughhhhhh. Previous owner must have put the roof rack bolts in with an impact wrench and welder. Soaked the bolts with wd40 / pb-blaster overnight. T40 and breaker bar immediately stripped the inside. I drilled the tops off with a 9/16” bit. Easily lifted off the rack. Discovered one driver’s side front nuts gone and the other nut about to fall into the headliner.
I have large set of channel locks that can’t get any of the bolts to budge at all. Tried cutting a notch in one and using giant flat head, twisted off the top of the shank.
My question is this. Given that I now have to drop the headliner, how big of a deal would it be to just replace everything that’s underneath (nuts / retainer/ etc.) ? Can anyone tell me some part numbers for the inside stuff.
1120505
 

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@Hannibal hooked a brother up with this link awhile back and I’ll do the same for you. I’m a friend of Ray’s at Pure, the best of people over there so please look them up and they’ll get you squared away. These are the interior units that fit above the headliner, he should be able to supply all the corresponding hardware for the topside and I highly recommend changing all of it if they’re that bad.

 

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Thanks so much for the link. Well I dropped it. I was able to get to all of them. Will be a bitch getting them back in. You guys will not believe this - the missing but wasn’t missing ... remember how I said they were put in at a ridiculous torque. Look at this pic and you tell me what they did...... yep that IS actually spun around itself.
 

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I have reached out to Pure for some additional parts. In the diagram it looks like there is a retaining bracket that goes topside. I have already purchased the bolt kit from Toyota that included the mastic washers - but need the topside bracket and 1 retaining clip for the inside that holds the bolt bracket to the frame mount. In this diagram it’s 63187a - the topside part is 63185d. Can’t seem to find these.
 

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Thanks so much for the link. Well I dropped it. I was able to get to all of them. Will be a bitch getting them back in. You guys will not believe this - the missing but wasn’t missing ... remember how I said they were put in at a ridiculous torque. Look at this pic and you tell me what they did...... yep that IS actually spun around itself.
That is exactly what happens if you completely remove one bolt before breaking the other one loose.

Always break BOTH bolts loose, and back them BOTH out several turns to make sure they don't bind up due to corrosion, before completely removing the first bolt.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
That is exactly what happens if you completely remove one bolt before breaking the other one loose.

Always break BOTH bolts loose, and back them BOTH out several turns to make sure they don't bind up due to corrosion, before completely removing the first bolt.
I believe they previous owner did this, then put it back on knowing there was an open hole underneath the bolt they put back in. Sad. I have all the replacement parts ordered. One thing I noticed -- I did NOT have any of the external (outside top of roof) retaining clips shown in the diagram I shared.
 

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Yep! Thanks - so I didn't have any of these when I removed the rack. So the recommendation is to obtain and install these when i reinstall the rack right? I have ordered 6 of these 6 of the nut housing and 1 retaining clip for the nut housing, I was able to save all of the others except the one missing.
 

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I’m reinstalling the rack today. 2 questions if you can help ASAP.

#1 mentioned above - I got those external brackets that were not present when I removed the rack. Do I put those on topside before replacing the rack.

#2 the OEM bolt kit came with fiber washers and mastic washers. How is the placement of the washers ? Is it mastic sticky side down the a fiber washer on top to keep the bolt from shearing the rubber? Or some other configuration.
 

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CAUTION!

There must also be a seal between the outer brackets (63185-0R010) and the roof itself; this is NOT shown on the roof-rack installation instructions.

My '14 (bought new) was delivered sans rack, so when I was removing the hardware to install a Prinsu rack, I saw that there were very thin black rubber seals (the same "mastic gaskets" called out in the install instructions?) on the underside of the brackets.

Do your new 63185 brackets have these seals already installed on them? If not, you need to use something (more of the mastic gaskets?) to seal the brackets to the roof.
 

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The outside brackets had a felt material underneath. I put a bead of silicone around each of the plastic guides on the inside nut housing and squeezed it up made a good deal around the outside of the hole. I put the fiber washer around the hole on the outside bracket where the plastic guide sticks through. I put the mastic washer on the rack mount out spindle holes. I tightened everything to 30ft pounds. I also had to completely make a new wiring harness for the Aird dam lights. I’ll post pics later today.
 

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Your seal positioning is NOT correct.

The mastic washers go on the bottom of the cylindrical "spools" projecting down from the roof rack mounting feet; they seal against the top of the 63185 brackets.

The fiber washers go under the heads of the rack mounting bolts; they seal the bolt heads against the top of the roof rack mounting feet.

It doesn't sound like you followed Toyota's OEM rack installation instructions provided in the link in post #13; no silicone adhesive is recommended. In some cases, regular RTV silicone can cause problems as they release acetic acid as a part of the curing process. The acetic acid can cause corrosion if it becomes trapped in threads, in the gap between adjacent steel parts, etc.
 

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Your seal positioning is NOT correct.

The mastic washers go on the bottom of the cylindrical "spools" projecting down from the roof rack mounting feet; they seal against the top of the 63185 brackets.

The fiber washers go under the heads of the rack mounting bolts; they seal the bolt heads against the top of the roof rack mounting feet.

It doesn't sound like you followed Toyota's OEM rack installation instructions provided in the link in post #13; no silicone adhesive is recommended. In some cases, regular RTV silicone can cause problems as they release acetic acid as a part of the curing process. The acetic acid can cause corrosion if it becomes trapped in threads, in the gap between adjacent steel parts, etc.
I didn’t see any prohibition of sealant mentioned in those instructions. Still would do it again because the idiot who put the bolts in with1000 lbs of torque damaged the through roof holes. They were sort of “wallered” out so things did not fit as well as the should have.
 
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