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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So all of a sudden I started getting a shake around 20mph to 45mph. So I changed ujoints, LCA, wheel bearings, cvaxels and got an alignment.(all needed anyways) felt better for a week but then it started again and got worst. Switching to 4wd makes no difference but when driving in 4 instead of D it doesn't happen. I know almost nothing about automatic trans missions but seems like a torque converter to me?? I pulled the trans pan and found no shavings. I was going to take it to the dealership for a fulsh as last time doen was about 70k miles ago but thought i would hear the forums thoughts. I did a quick search and most seems to be old related topics and wasn't sure if a fix was actually found.

thanks in advanced


revised I forgot to add about 6 weeks ago I was snowwheeling and did get an A/T temp light. This was the 1st time this every happened. I shut her down for abpout 45mins and it seemed fine. The shaking started shortly after this night.
 

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This may help
 

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Discussion Starter #3

This may help
49 pages is there an audio book version? LOL
 

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Condensed version: the 'shuddering' is caused by a slipping/chattering torque converter clutch. The lockup clutch control system used in the FJ is unusual in that it has three modes of operation: fully unlocked, fully locked, and 'intentional slip' mode. The 'shuddering' you are feeling is the clutch chattering (stick/slip) during the intentional-slip mode.

In the great majority of cases, this can be resolved by simply changing the transmission lubricant, using ONLY Toyota WS or equivalent WS-rated fluid. You can drain and refill the pan multiple times over several weeks (~3-4 quarts each time), or flush the entire 12+ quarts at one shot. There are multiple threads on DIY transmission flush procedures on this forum.

After a fluid change, it may take a few thousand miles to remove the glaze from the lockup clutch friction material. In rare cases where changing the lubricant doesn't fully resolve the problem, the next step is to add a small dose of a commercially available friction modifier (Shudder-Fixx) to the lube and again wait a few days. Only in rare cases is torque converter replacement actually required.

You indicated that the last time the transmission was dealer-serviced was 70k miles ago. Do you remember EXACTLY what was done? A full transmission flush? Or just a fluid level check?

If a full flush was performed, it would be unusual for shuddering to develop in only 70K miles, although if your transmission overheat warning light came on, that indicates SEVERE overheating of the fluid, which greatly increases the rate of fluid breakdown.

How frequently to you go 'snow-wheeling' in the conditions that recently triggered the transmission overheat light?
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Condensed version: the 'shuddering' is caused by a slipping/chattering torque converter clutch. The lockup clutch control system used in the FJ is unusual in that it has three modes of operation: fully unlocked, fully locked, and 'intentional slip' mode. The 'shuddering' you are feeling is the clutch chattering (stick/slip) during the intentional-slip mode.

In the great majority of cases, this can be resolved by simply changing the transmission lubricant, using ONLY Toyota WS or equivalent WS-rated fluid. You can drain and refill the pan multiple times over several weeks (~3 quarts each time), or flush the entire 12+ quarts at one shot. There are multiple threads on DIY transmission flush procedures on this forum.

After a fluid change, it may take a few thousand miles to remove the glaze from the lockup clutch friction material, In rare cases where changing the lubricant doesn't fully resolve the problem, the next step is to add a small dose of a commercially available friction modifier (Shudder-Fixx) to the lube and again wait a few days. Only in rare cases is torque converter replacement actually required.

You indicated that the last time the transmission was dealer-serviced was 70k miles ago. Do you remember EXACTLY what was done? A full transmission flush? Or just a fluid level check?

If a full flush was performed, it would be unusual for shuddering to develop in only 70K miles, although if your transmission overheat warning light came on, that indicates SEVERE overheating of the fluid, which greatly increases the rate of fluid breakdown.

How frequently to you go 'snow-wheeling' in the conditions that recently triggered the transmission overheat light?
Great input! I went snowwheeling daily lol to some extent i wheel a lot. I had also recently went thru some crazy deep water too. changed out all my fluids no water in any of them tho. As for the night it overheated i was stuck in deep snow. rocking back and forth. I saw the light and immediately turned it off and helped my other stuck buddy for 45 mins or so. When I restarted light was off and we continued for another hour and a half or so. It was a fun night. at one point I had the records but I'm pretty sure it was a complete flush at 100k miles. I called the dealership here they want $269 to do the current flush. I'm pretty sure it was close to that last time too.
 

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Flushed the transmission and then balanced the wheels the same day?

Or flushed all the debris out of the wheels, and then balanced them?
 

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I was going to second Hannibal ,
I had a speed dependent shudder that was fixed by wheel balancing.

I was thinking it could be that you lost a balance weight that night in the fray.

Cheap fix if it’s that simple.
 

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Same thing happened to my '13 at 72K. I read the forums, and sweated bullets debating the decision of a converter. Decided to gamble with a flush, and fill. Come to find out the cooler lines were sweating fluid, and probably the only issue is that it was just a little low. Best decision I've ever made. No issues since KNOCK ON WOOD!!!
 

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I also had same issue with my 07 FJ. I did complete transmission flush and it fixed issue. I gotta say, FJ does need transmission flush. My oil was really dirty. GL
 

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Drain and fill for now and add Lube Guard, if shudder goes away do a full flush and install a transmission cooler. The shudder occurred after your transmission heated up and the lubricity of the oil went south.
 
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