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Hey guys, been on this site for a few years now, very useful! 1st Time poster, I've been searching threads and can't really find anyone who covers my specific issue. I'll try and keep it short and as simple as possible.
Hooked up auxilary LEDs in bumber, spliced into the Passenger side reverse light, only want them to come on when in reverse. Light up for better oem camera view.
Ran wire from positive battery back to rear passenger compartment. In line fuse installed.
Used a relay, wired as per instructions.
Put in reverse, the passenger side new led blows out instanly. The driver side stays lit and works fine.
I'm on my 3rd light. I don't want to hook it up just to burn it out again.
I am scratching my head as too why one blows and the passenger doesn't. The lead line from relay is connected to both lights at one connection. Each light is grounded seperately to frame by each light.
I've read on here where folks haven't used inline fuse or a relay and have no issues splicing directly into reverse lamp wires. I did this the first try, blew light. Added relay, lead line direct from battery, inline fuse before before relay...?... blew the light.
11 FJ, no subwoofer, no trailer hitch wire harness. Havent installed an led flasher yet...
Also had the issue where the Camera stopped working when shift into reverse...
Read somewhere that maybe I should be splicing into the Driver side reverse light as this is where the camera "switch connection" is.
Im fairly capable of this type of project, sodering splices, making sure of good grounding etc... just completely baffled as to what I'm missing for what should be a simple mod.
Appreciate any expert advise, diagram, schematic.
 

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If all of your connections are correct (as you say they are), I would be suspicious of your grounding. Why not just connect your second light to exactly the same power and ground leads as the first light and see if it works.

Ground loops are notorious for causing problems in car stereos. The most common solution is to make sure all the grounds are tied together.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Appreciate the feedback.
I thought about that, but didnt want to blow 2 lights IF the power surge, assuming thats whats blowing the light, is coming from the vehicle side.
Wouldnt an open ground, bad ground, just cause light to not come on? Not actually blow, burnout the light?
 

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Using the frame to ground LED bulbs is a no no, connect both ground wires together before the ground point un less the LEDs have reverse voltage protection and over voltage protection built into them. thats why the good harnesses have a full ground circiut on them.
What brand LED lights were they. A while back I had bought 12 little 2 1/2" cube LEDs for the FJs from Tractor supply and 4 burned out instantly also , when I took them back I was told that some of them were assembled with the wires on backwards.
 

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Isn't a diodes function to only allow current to flow in one direction? Therefor being self reverse current protected.
 

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yes it is but the voltage and current regulation to the LED is not, and that is what makes it reliable and last
 

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If you spliced into the passenger side reverse light, why do you need to run battery power back to it? I just did this same Mod a few weeks ago, two flush-mount Aux LED lights in the rear bumper fascia. I have a subwoofer on the right side, so I just used two scotch-lock taps on the driver's side reverse light wires, one on the hot side, one on the ground, directly to the Aux lights wired in series. It works fine. The LEDs draw so little current, it doesn't affect the circuit at all. There's no need for any added power wire, relay or fuse. I also swapped out the stock reverse bulbs for some brighter, "projector" style LED bulbs. Those bulbs make the overall current draw in the circuit even less than the stock incandescent bulbs.
Good luck with it!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks guys.
It's literally driving me nuts. I know it should be that simple. I'm starting to wonder if it isnt the light itself... Lightronic 3.5" 12-24v from amazon.
I'm going ring the grounds up into the cap and connect there.
I guess I should only connect the one light that has always worked to confirm connection, then only connect new light only and confirm connection and function... process of elimination... Argh.
Anyone have any inclination as to why some of experience the back up camera loss during this process?
 
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