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My '08 FJ with the Off Road pkg has 47000 miles on it. So far the shocks/struts all seem to be holding fine. I spend about 90% of the time on-road and about 10% on gravel/dirt roads sometimes hitting bumps or holes at around30-40 mph. What is the life expectancy on these shocks? Should I go by the same recommendations as the base shocks, or should the Bilsteins last longer? I just need to know when to start a suspension fund.
 

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I have gotten over 100k on my TRD suspension on my Taco's, a guy I work with son-n-law works for Bilstein and Bilstein's standard response is(cause I asked him) Bilstein shocks will last forever as long as the seals hold and do not leak.

Kind of like how many licks does it take to get to the center of the lollipop, we may never know:rofl:

Seriously high grade shocks should last at a minimum 100k unless a seal goes, they are abused, or there is a manufacturing defect.
 

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Bumping this up. Still debating what kind of level to do in the front with 72k miles on my original TT bilsteins. Two options so far are 1/2 inch toytec spacer which yields 3/4 to 1 inch of front lift for leveling, or if the shocks are on their way out or don't have much life left in them, 5100s all around with 3rd notch on front (which from my understanding can lead to a nose up look).

Thoughts?


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Mine were definitely tired upon removal of my original 07 shocks at 45k but think the lift spacers caused some of the wear. I think it all comes down to the ride. If the ride is good without harshness on bumps, etc you're probably good with what you have.


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I've had a number of Bilstein equipped vehicles and 50K-75K has been max for me. It's like they go overnight.. Everything is OK one day and then it's like "wow my shocks are gone". My 08 standard Toyota shocks/struts are mostly gone at 70K.. Ron
 

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Nobody has any input on the life of these?


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The Bills are a gas shock which assists in preventing aeration of the oil as it passes through the valves allowing for more consistent operation and assisting in cooling, under average normal use providing the shock seals stay in good condition you should see many miles and years of shock life.
 

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Mixed opinions here some say 75k max and then some say long life lol idk what to do! I'm worried about the 5100s on third because I don't want the pre runner look. I measured and I have 2 inches of rake almost exactly.


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You can see if the shocks are leaky by visually inspecting them. That was the first sign mine were shot. Rallying them offroad a bunch tired them out real quick :lol: Especially the washboards.

They went in the trash when I got my new coil overs :rocker:


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One way you can look at this, if you can comfortably afford to replace the shocks then you will be happy you did . As for knowing if the stock ones need replacing do a visual check all around the shock body if you see any wet stains brown/ black oily then they have blown the seals and are done. A Shocks job is to control the vehicles ride and absorb sharp impacts from bumps and holes and also prevent bouncy ride .
Drive over a good size speed bump fast and slow . At slow speed after the bump the vehicle should compress down rise back up and settle to normal ride position if it bounces down and up more than 1- 11/4 times then the shocks are garbage , at fast speed you should NOT hear and feel a sharp loud clunking noise like the drive line fell off.
There is only two ways to look at replacement , you need em, you want em .The other consideration is can you do the install or are you paying a shop ? if you are paying your almost twice the cost of shocks alone when done..... I guess If your crapping dollar bills all day buy new . As for the 5100 at the third level if your nose is in the air you can replace the rear springs or do as I did add a spacer on top it has worked well for me and cost little. Good luck and cheers
 

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you should see many miles and years of shock life.
Well thats terribly useful. Good thing the maintenance schedule isn't that vague.

Obviously life expectancy cannot be nailed down because everyone's driving conditions will be different. Install 5100's or start a suspension fund because you WANT to lift/level your truck rather than just waiting till your shocks need replacement.

...5100s all around with 3rd notch on front (which from my understanding can lead to a nose up look)
I'm worried about the 5100s on third because I don't want the pre runner look. I measured and I have 2 inches of rake almost exactly.
Where are you getting this information?! I have the 5100's and everything I've read, in addition to my own experience says the 3rd notch is perfect to level the front. Your front end is sagging 2 inches. The 3rd notch provides 1.75 inches of lift. = your front will be roughly .25 inches lower than the rear. What makes you think that will result in a high nose look?
 

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Well thats terribly useful. Good thing the maintenance schedule isn't that vague.

Obviously life expectancy cannot be nailed down because everyone's driving conditions will be different. Install 5100's or start a suspension fund because you WANT to lift/level your truck rather than just waiting till your shocks need replacement.





Where are you getting this information?! I have the 5100's and everything I've read, in addition to my own experience says the 3rd notch is perfect to level the front. Your front end is sagging 2 inches. The 3rd notch provides 1.75 inches of lift. = your front will be roughly .25 inches lower than the rear. What makes you think that will result in a high nose look?
The 5100 level poll thread has quite a few individuals who have noted a nose up look on the third notch, and many claim the actual lift is closer to two inches, some even more. Not sure why there is such a variance.


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I have over 130K on my 08's TRD shocks and everything is fine. Tires wear normally and ride is still tight.
 

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Should have added before, here is a before and after pic of my truck using the 3rd notch.
I think the truck had around 40-45,000 miles on it when these were installed.

The front end has settled even more over the following 50k miles.
 

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Not a great angle for this purpose but this was about 2 weeks ago.

Guess what I was trying to say is that when first installed on the 3rd notch it looked perfectly level in regards to space between tire and top of wheel well. Sometimes when I look at it now(~50k miles later) it appears to have a SLIGHT forward rake. Nothing very significant though. 3rd notch is the way to go. Or even better, do yourself a favor and just go to the highest notch then add a spacer to the rear. Save yourself the time/$$ when you're wishing for a little bit more lift down the road. I'd like to raise my front to the highest notch and install a modified 1.5" poly spacer on the rear but there are other projects ahead of that on my to-do list.
 

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I don't believe the weight of the grill guard is very significant. Those are stock size tires 265-70-17 and they're down to maybe 1/4" of tread.
 

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If I lift the front 2.5 inches on the fourth notch, it typically will require aftermarket uca to get the alignment in spec no? I have been going back and forth with third notch and fourth notch plus 895e or superflex coils on the back but I am doing this on a budget and would rather not drop the coin on the ucas. If I was going to spend in excess of a grand I'd just get the toytec coil over kit and ucas


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