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Discussion Starter #1
Let me start this off by I have searched around in here and online for 2 evenings before working up the nerve to ask this. I am sure it is a horse that has been beaten to death, but everywhere I look I get information that kills my understanding and thoughts of the previous thread I read, and sooner or later I find myself back at the beginning with little if any understanding on what I need to do.

So here it goes, please be gentle. All my lift v/s tire knowledge is wrapped around the 4 corner leaf spring riding Jeep. I became very familiar with that setup. This FJ is a completely new monster. Completely new setup, and completely new challenges. What I did learn from my YJ experience is you better play chess rather than checkers or you will spend money twice on the same mission. So this is why I am really working hard to figure out what I need to do. So, when you start typing responses, remember I am new here and may not completely understand some of the acronyms used. But I do understand some.

So without further delay, this is my "want to accomplish" mission. Looking to run 33" tires. I don't want to completely kill my IFS by going bigger, but I still want to go places in my rig. I am looking for reasonable highway manners, but also needing to be able to hit the mud, tackle that off camber trail, a few light rocks and a bunch of dirt hills and piles where high centering tends to stop the ride for a quick retrieval mission if you ain't set up right.. I learned a suspension able to move as much as possible and keep the shoes on the ground is best, just don't quite know the best way to do that in the FJ. And of course budget is a big steering force with this decision.

I am looking at the Pro Comp 3" KB5074B (part number) and the Pro Comp UCA's 57003B. Should this get me where I can run 33" tires without tearing off a fender and make it over some good obstacles and get under the skin of some of my wrangler buddies? Or should I just look at the full Pro Comp K5067B 6"lift. I will be putting tube style bumpers on my rig with a winch at some point, So I will be adding weight but not as much as some of the armor bumper setups. I know there are about a million other lifts out there, but for whatever reason I seem to be drawn to these. Keeps me under 1.5k either way and that is where I need to be. I like the adjust-ability of some of the lifts like the Toy Tec lifts, but there are so many different options I have no idea what to do or what direction to go or which package to pic. I cannot see me going much bigger than 33" tires ever, simply because I will be driving this on the road for a weekend warrior/go to the beach vehicle, but will be wheeling it also. Ran 36" swampers on my jeep, and went anywhere I ever wanted, and some places I had no business going, but from what I can see,the FJ should do with 33" tires what my old YJ did with 36" tires with the difference in suspension setup. I don't want to just put in spacers and go completely cheep, but also don't want to kill the bank.

I have read and searched around in here and just cannot decide. I really liked the write up Jimmy Buffet did, just not sure I can afford all the advise given in there. Not sure if my idea of wheeling on the weekends rises to the level of serious wheeling or not. I used to think I got into serious adventures, but I never went full Moab anywhere. So please help. Completely lost at this point. Not sure if I will ever go bigger than a 33" tire. May one day, but for now, don't plan on it.

Thanks for bearing with me through all that, and I look forward to advise.
 

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G'Day,
My simple advise would be to not worry about lifts n tyres...yet ...take it out as it is..see what it can do ..then research tyres n lifts.
In stock form, the FJ is really very capable..and will perform better than you think it could possibly perform....

We are not immune from doing things twice...to get it right.... nature of the beast....

get a handle on how an IFS Yoda works ... in the real world of rocks n mud... then consider what type of lift n tyres are going to help and improve it....

Budget and compromise are a fact of life.... even with an FJ....

cheers
Baz
:blueblob:
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Thanks for the response. But I do question the logic. Not for the sake of argument, but for the sake of education. I know the look I want. I know the tire size I want. I know where I want to take my rig. I am no novice to going off road. Been doing it for years. I understand I need to learn the capabilities of the FJ. I also understand it is quite capable sitting bone stock. Need no convincing of that. Was why I bought it. So why not set it up like I want to set it up, and learn the rig set up? Obviously, I know I need to lift it. I need more tire. Even if I didn't lift it I need tires. The street tires on it now simply will not do. And I would rather not spend money on tires I won't want in 6 months and replace and move forward anyway. My question is not what tire to run. But which lift would be best suited to run it. Not up and down the road. But not jumping the canyon either. Never been afraid to go headlight deep in a pond, Love a challenging trail, few rocks simply because here in Florida, well, that is what we have. A few rocks, but nothing like the mountains. But we have dirt, and interesting washouts, trails, hills, and holes I intend on playing in. And capable or not, the way it is set up now,will not do what I want. I only mention the type of off roading to give an idea of what I plan to do with it. To gauge how much off roading it will be doing to help find the correct lift. Please don't take this wrong, but I am trying to understand. Not asking if I should lift my FJ, asking what lift will best suit what I am doing with it. Know my destination, just trying to lean on experience to chart the course.
 

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Thanks. so a followup. How much tire can I stuff in there without tearing up fenders with no lift. The tires on it now are street tires. Still in good shape, but not aggressive tread at all. If I am running stock height for a bit, I at least need to put some grips on there. With no idea how it handles or what it does, I cannot judge if I can get a bit bigger under there or not. Thanks for the advise.
G'day,
Thats a hard /simple question ... haha

It is possible to run a 285/70/17 with no lift ..many have ... and many have also failed ... depends on the tyre ..how aggressive and what shape your suspension is in....
the other risk factor is how close to the UCA you end up with the wider tyre on ( if you are still on stock rims ).... and how far you can push the castor forward to stop it scrubbing the rear of the wheel arch / mud flap area.... no two FJs are identical.... a good tyre shop should be able to help you... a 275/70/17 is a slightly safer bet ...

The stock Dunlops - AT20/AT22 tyres that yoda use, are actually good in sand and on trails ... not much good in mud n rocks....

Like I said, give a run, see how it goes....

Cheers
Baz
:blueblob:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Again. Thanks for the advise. Sorry, I edited the quote you put up there I guess while you were posting. Please don't take offense. The question still remains. Which lift, not do I get a lift or not, but which lift would work best on this rig for what I am doing? Not interested in keeping the street tread tires that is currently on it, and not interested in purchasing tires, just to do it again in 6 months. Would rather pull off what I want up front. Which is why I ask the above question. I do appreciate the insight. And I guess I understand where it comes from. Just know the direction I want to go, and looking for advise on how to get there as best as possible reaching out for the collective knowledge in this group. Not asking if I should indeed go in a direction. But again, I do appreciate you taking the time. Just not answering the question I am asking.
 

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Again. Thanks for the advise. Sorry, I edited the quote you put up there I guess while you were posting. Please don't take offense. The question still remains. Which lift, not do I get a lift or not, but which lift would work best on this rig for what I am doing? Not interested in keeping the street tread tires that is currently on it, and not interested in purchasing tires, just to do it again in 6 months. Would rather pull off what I want up front. Which is why I ask the above question. I do appreciate the insight. And I guess I understand where it comes from. Just know the direction I want to go, and looking for advise on how to get there as best as possible reaching out for the collective knowledge in this group. Not asking if I should indeed go in a direction. But again, I do appreciate you taking the time. Just not answering the question I am asking.
no sweat mate.
tis all good....
If you know what you want to do, thats great.... I can't offer an opinion on the lift you are looking at...as its not sold Down Under... all I can say .. the cheaper the lift ..the more likely you will replace it...in the future.... but I guess you already know this ...

tyres are almost a personal thing... lol... some love BFG, some love Coopers, some love GY ... if you had a tyre you liked and worked for you on the Jeep, then it will work pretty much the same on the FJ.... a 33 or 285/70/17 AT ... is a good balance for most situations, and a standard 2 inch lift will more than accommodate a 33

good luck

cheers
Baz
:blueblob:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hey Bazross, what part of Australia you from. Had a buddy in Sydney area. That guy was a trip. Always wanted to take a trip over there. Be well sir, thanks for playing along.
 

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Cappy, all I can speak to is that I have had bad luck with Bilsteins getting leaks, ProComp makes some really stiff shocks relative to others - I have two sets of ProComp in boxes for my old FJ60 - because I ran them and they just were too harsh unless you were rolling over boulders. I looked a lot, as you have, back in '07.

If you made up your mind, then just do it.

If not, then IMO you can't beat OME complete 3" setup for the ride and their toughness. My shocks are still not leaking and the ride is still smooth and friendly offroad and on. When one of them leaks, then it will be more OME for replacements.

I have the 3" OME setup with the front end levelers, 1.5" SpiderTrax spacers all around. I ran 285/70-17's for years, and only rubbed when articulating a lot while turning. I recently did the BMC - no rubbing in any contortions with same tire size.

Whatever you do, go with the pre-assembled front coil/shock. I busted a window in SWMBO's old ride when a spring compressor decided to slip. And I am most handy with tools - but that's a lot of tension to deal with using rented tools...
 

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Cpt. Ray T,

I'll share my 2 cents worth of advice.

(1) Do not even consider any lift over 3 inches.

(2) Do some research on what's know as The Body Mount Chop and make it your first project. Not always necessary but provides more flexibility when choosing tire size. Easy, cheap modification. Just do it and be done with it.

(3) Limiting yourself to a budget of 1.5K for a lift will not provide you with top quality products and you may find yourself unhappy with ride quality and performance. If necessary, wait and save up a little more cash and purchase quality products the first go around.

(4) A simple leveling kit combined with the body mount chop will easily allow you to run 285 70's with no clearance issues.

(5) Invest in a quality set of Upper Control Arms. Check out JBA. Good bang for the buck.

(6) For just under 2k I would recommend Bilstein 6112's up front set to max height of 2.5 inches. JBA upper control arms. Bilstein 5100's in the rear, and 1 inch rear spring spacers. This setup will provide decent on-road ride quality with fair offroad capabilities and without any alignment issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks GUys. Yea, have already kind of steered toward the 3". So many choices. Found some freedom Off Road 2.5-5" adjustable full setup. Plus some of their UCA's. Price for that is for sure in my wheel house, and I have read some good reviews. Just don't always trust reviews on a companies website. Have any of you guys had any experience with them? I have already looked at the body mount chop. Have a plan for that if there is a need. Getting new wheels, so plan on getting backspacing to accommodate those needs rather than run spacers. I do like the adjustable idea for when I add winch and bumper, will be able to crank it up a bit. A solid plus from what I am reading. I also have always heard good things about the OME line. And they are not out of the picture. Those JBA Offroad UCA's look cool as well.
 

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Cap, you might also consider a 1" body lift - makes more room for tires and doesn't affect overall handling much at all.

I've been running spacers since '07, mainly because it helps when you are running over hillsides - the 3" wider stance does make a difference in when the old FJ starts feeling tipsy. I have had zero repercussions from using the spacers.

I ran without the BMC for a decade - wish I had gone ahead and chopped that stupid body ear off years ago.

I never trust any review that is signed as "Bill" or "Mark" or "Joe"...maybe I'm just too cynical?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I ran spacers on my last rig. Just figured I would cut out the middle man and just get wheels that had a decent -offset. Stability is important for sure. I have also bee looking at the body lifts. Am I to understand correctly that one can go up 1" normally without getting into wiring and shifter clearance issues? And with the 1" will there be a need for a steering arm stretch?
 

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The ToyTec lift kit has steering fixer and radiator drop mounts with the spacers - it's an ez thing for those. Getting to those rear body ounts is the pain. And you have to jack one side up, install, then jack up the other...
 

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Cpt. Ray T,

I see "Cpt" in your user name and you using the term "Wheel House". As a Navy retiree, I'm curious!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Cpt. Ray T,

I see "Cpt" in your user name and you using the term "Wheel House". As a Navy retiree, I'm curious!
No, Grew up in the boat world, so picked up on some of the lingo I guess. Cpt. is because I am a Captain at our local Police Department. Never been in the Navy, closest I have come to that is having a son that joined a few years back. He is a Devil Doc with the 2nd Marine Division (I think it is) Third Reg in Hawaii.
 

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Cap, I made a rifle mount that sits above the cargo area - holds 2 and mounts to the clothes hangers doodads. Cost me about $50 bucks all in - if you're interested. Can still see out that little back window some even with a shotgun and .3006 carbine hanging.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Cap, I made a rifle mount that sits above the cargo area - holds 2 and mounts to the clothes hangers doodads. Cost me about $50 bucks all in - if you're interested. Can still see out that little back window some even with a shotgun and .3006 carbine hanging.
Wonder if it could be modified to move forward a bit... Better to gain access to in the event of shenanigans..... Like just behind the front seats.... Funny you mention that, was sitting in there looking at it thinking of ways to secure some "stuff". Shoot me some pics. Still new enough that I am not sure if I can receive or send PM's. But would love to take a look. Been looking at the new Remington Tac13 for the grab in a hurry item. Trying to come up with a secure latch to hold it close, kind of like our mounts in our marked cars. Triggered by a hidden switch, and without solidly secure.

Always looking. Heck that rig you are talking about may work in my work truck. I drive a 06 Tundra. Currently have a hanging 2 long gun mount that attaches to my head rests on my back seat, but I don't like it. When I get all my gear in there, things tend to get clogged up. Having something across the top may be a better thought.
 

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It's all black, so it doesn't photo well, but I will try tomorrow. Basically, I used an all-thread rod, lots of nuts to double them up and lock things where I wanted, Quick Fist Weapons Mounts attached to aluminum plates secured by double nuts. The 10mm bolts screw to some angled 'ears' I bent to fit the slope of the headliner. I used some of that black wire covering stuff to hide the all-thread.

I put a 12g riot gun and my .3006 in the rack and drove it for a month - the guns shifted a little, but tightening the quick fists fixed that. The roll bar didn't shift or roll with the weight of a single gun in it, so both sides with gun it's balanced and not going to shift either.

I carry my pistol in a pocket that is part of my seat cover. I had to take the greendot off for it to fit, but a 9mm is pretty accurate at 20 feet without. The seat covers are from Wet Okole, and they are wet suit material, and they offer the pistol pocket as an option. Had them since 07, so going to buy new ones when I get a windfall...lol

If you don't mind the rifle riding in the passenger side, you could easily use the Quick Fist mounts to rig your rifle on the side of the console. I tried to devise a quick grabngo thing, but with all the other gear I carry - space is just not there, and SWMBO don't like rubbing shoulders with my toys. So opted for the 9mm up front and the rest in the rack if I am nervous about any old thing.

Try and post some pics in gallery tomorrow after I get home from my farm...
 
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