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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello;

For you folks that have installed the Light Racing UCA's with a 3" lift, can you tell me what position you set the joints in and if they needed to be repositioned when the vehicle was aligned. I'm trying to make sure I get them in the right position to avoid the need for the alignment shop to unbolt the joints and reposition them. Also, any issue with the installation, anything need to be removed under the hood the clear the bolts?

Thanks

Gino
 

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I believe the install instructions tell you what position to locate ball joint. This does not guarantee the tech will not reposition during alignment. Only gets ya close. dont know about other question.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Install instructions only tell you which position relate to how much caster correction, not a recommended setting for a three inch lift.

Thanks
 

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Take a look at this thread: http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/foru...stall-what-hell-do-those-directions-mean.html

It's been a long time since I installed mine. The only thing I remember doing was loosening the battery up a little. Can't remember for sure but I couldn't get to the bolt too loosen it or get the bolt out with the battery in OEM placement. One of the two can't remember which.........

Be careful when trying to seperate the OEM UCA from the spindle. I've heard of people stripping the nut and screwing threads up as well. So, if you use the hammer method to seperate be precise with your hits.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Take a look at this thread: http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/foru...stall-what-hell-do-those-directions-mean.html

It's been a long time since I installed mine. The only thing I remember doing was loosening the battery up a little. Can't remember for sure but I couldn't get to the bolt too loosen it or get the bolt out with the battery in OEM placement. One of the two can't remember which.........

Be careful when trying to seperate the OEM UCA from the spindle. I've heard of people stripping the nut and screwing threads up as well. So, if you use the hammer method to seperate be precise with your hits.
Thanks, that thread helped. Guess I'll feel better when I get my head in it.
 

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Install instructions only tell you which position relate to how much caster correction, not a recommended setting for a three inch lift.

Thanks
Set them at zero (no correction) or the first position of positive correction and it will be close enough and safe to drive to get it aligned.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Okay, I have my head in this now. Got everything out of the box and assembled and I understand what I am doing. I'm setting the joints at the O degree setting (SPC logo facing the wheel) which is actually +2 degrees over stock. Now if the torrential downpour would stop so I can get this lift done I'd be a happy camper.

On another note, can someone tell me the torque spec for the factory UCA bolt the arm pivots on?

Thanks for the help.
 

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dont forget that these are a factory style UCA and will need to be preloaded before tightening up the bolt that holds them to the frame. Also, when you connect the Spindle to the ball joint make sure you get it all the way as tight as you can by pushing the two together. this will ensure you have enough friction to keep the ball joint from spinning and breaking the boot when you torque the castle nut. It will be easier with the LRs because the other bolt should still be loose at this point. then jack from the spindle till you slightly lift off the jack stand to provide the preload then tighten the bolt holding it to the frame. I dont know the torques for the FJ, I have installed LOTS of these on Tacomas. Just find a copy of the FSM.

Also.... be aware that the very large boot on these tend to hit larger coils at full droop. so if you are running aftermarket coilovers check to make sure youre not hitting the coil at full droop.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
dont forget that these are a factory style UCA and will need to be preloaded before tightening up the bolt that holds them to the frame. Also, when you connect the Spindle to the ball joint make sure you get it all the way as tight as you can by pushing the two together. this will ensure you have enough friction to keep the ball joint from spinning and breaking the boot when you torque the castle nut. It will be easier with the LRs because the other bolt should still be loose at this point. then jack from the spindle till you slightly lift off the jack stand to provide the preload then tighten the bolt holding it to the frame. I dont know the torques for the FJ, I have installed LOTS of these on Tacomas. Just find a copy of the FSM.

Also.... be aware that the very large boot on these tend to hit larger coils at full droop. so if you are running aftermarket coilovers check to make sure youre not hitting the coil at full droop.

Thanks for the headsup! Not sure I am following you 100% on the issue of bolting the joint to the spindle though. I think you are telling me to make sure I seat the taper on the joint into the spindle as snugly as I can prior to tighten the castle nut to prevent the taper on the joint spinning, is that correct?
 

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Thanks for the headsup! Not sure I am following you 100% on the issue of bolting the joint to the spindle though. I think you are telling me to make sure I seat the taper on the joint into the spindle as snugly as I can prior to tighten the castle nut to prevent the taper on the joint spinning, is that correct?
Yeah... its normally more of a problem for people who are just reconnecting a factory UCA because there is still preload on the UCA. so it takes a lot of force down on the UCA to get the taper to fit snugly. so many people have pushed it down just enough to get the nut started then tried to push them together by tightening the nut. since you will have the other bolt loose on the UCA it will be much easier.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks for all the help folks. In the waining few hours of the evening I did the UCA and Walker Evans Lift on the Drivers side. It seems the 2010 models may have some differences that complicate the installation but it's surmountable. All seems well accept the UCA squeaks when I bounce on the suspension. The installation instructions don't say anything about lubricating the bolt and it was dry when I removed it from the factory UCA. Anyone else run into the squeak issue? How was it resolved? Spray lube?

Thanks
 

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Thanks for all the help folks. In the waining few hours of the evening I did the UCA and Walker Evans Lift on the Drivers side. It seems the 2010 models may have some differences that complicate the installation but it's surmountable. All seems well accept the UCA squeaks when I bounce on the suspension. The installation instructions don't say anything about lubricating the bolt and it was dry when I removed it from the factory UCA. Anyone else run into the squeak issue? How was it resolved? Spray lube?

Thanks
I have adjustable coilovers (sway-a-way) as well as the light racing uppers and I had the same problem as you with the squeeking. It turned out that I did not bolt up the front sway bar correctly (with the same amount on either side). I repositioned it and all is well since! :cheers: P.S. I pulled my uppers from the box and never lubed them, and never had a prob.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I have adjustable coilovers (sway-a-way) as well as the light racing uppers and I had the same problem as you with the squeeking. It turned out that I did not bolt up the front sway bar correctly (with the same amount on either side). I repositioned it and all is well since! :cheers: P.S. I pulled my uppers from the box and never lubed them, and never had a prob.
Thanks for the info but I don't think it is the sway bar in my case since it is not connected at the moment. I left it disconnected because I will be doing the passenger side install in the morning.
 

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Anyone else run into the squeak issue? How was it resolved?
Spend your youth building building unmuffled hot-rod engines and shooting without hearing protection, then later in life you will never notice many annoying noises! :jester: I couldn't tell you if mine squeak or not.
 

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Spend your youth building building unmuffled hot-rod engines and shooting without hearing protection, then later in life you will never notice many annoying noises! :jester: I couldn't tell you if mine squeak or not.
:lol: Thats how I resolved it also, except in my case it was loud motorcycles! This also comes in handy being a school bus driver with 50+ screaming kids on board, the noise just doesn't bother me like it does the other drivers :lol: I'am also getting ready to install my new lift, LR uca's and lca's. Just waiting for the lca's to show up so this thread has been on my to read list. Thanks for the great info guys. :cheers:
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Been in construction for 25 years, play in a band, listen to loud music constantly, oh and I almost forgot, I'm, married! My ears suck! This is a loud annoying squeak and it definitely seems to be coming from the UCA. Maybe I'll spray a little silicone lube in the joints on the ends of the bushings. My torque wrench would not fit in on the lower side of the hinge bolt to torque the nut so I had to use a crowsfoot socket on my torque wrench. The result of that might be a little higher torque on the bolt than I should have. Maybe I should loosen it and re-torque to a lower value?
 

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Does the uca move freely? If not maybe overtighten? squirting alittle lube at the bushing might help locate the noise source
 

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No lube and or squeak on mine. Did you install the outer washers on the UCA pivot arm bolt? I had no problems getting a torque wrench in there. I would loosen it up and try torq'n it again.

It won't move freely after it's been torq'd down and set up.
 
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