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Discussion Starter #1
I've had my 170's installed for about 6 months now and there hasn't been a problem with them until today. They are wired into my high beams as per the instructions from Lightforce. They are also wired to a switch so if I don't want them to turn on with the high beams they won't.

Since wiring them in, every time I start the vehicle the lights kick on for a brief moment and then turn back off. I assume this is due to the power surge to the headlights upon the vehicle turning on and the daytime running lights kicking on.

Today when I turned the Cruiser on the 170's kicked on, and stayed lit. I figured maybe there was a small spike when I turned the lights on and it just kicked the relay on and for some reason it wouldn't shut off. Well I flicked the high beams on and off and nothing changed. I flicked the switch to turn them off and they stayed on. I then turned the truck off and still nothing changed.

What could be causing this? I ended up having the take the positive wire off the battery to get them to turn off. Is it a possibility the relay is shot from taking the surge every time the vehicle is turned on? A bad relay is the only thing I can think of that might be doing it but before I tear into the wiring I figured I would ask here first, hoping someone has had the same thing happen to them. Thanks guys :smile

 

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I`d say the relay is stuck...

IMHO I would never tie any lighting into the canbus wiring of the FJ.

try and keep your add ons separate from the vehicle harness...

I think the only think I would use is the factory FOG lamp harness for a pair of equivalent amp/draw lamps, that`s it...
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The lights have their own power feed. The wire going to the high beams is only used to switch the relay on or off. If I was to just remove this wire from the high beams and only run the fogs from the switch, which I don't really want to do, would I just run the "fog wire" to a 12v source?
 

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my point is, try not qnd tie anything to the existing lighting harness other than Toyota`s own harness for the factory fog`s or equivalent. with todays canbus system and lite gauge wiring, daytime/lighting modules your just asking for troubles down the road... keep it simple keep it separate. use another source to trigger the relay...or just re-wire the aftermarket lights. are those 170`s even legal to have lit in your state?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
In Florida you can run them on the vehicle. I don't run them while driving around unless there is no one in front of me and no incoming traffic, just like I wouldn't run my high beams in those circumstances. For me, running them to the high beams made sense. When I drive to the mountains I want as much light as possible. With my old LED light, I would have to kill the high beams and then hit the light switch every time I wanted to turn them off. What a pain. With the lights being switched on using the high beams it is much easier.
 

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G'day,
I agree with PR, your relay is probably cooked.
And its never a good idea to use the OE harness ...
I recommend you start again and follow to diagram below. tap the headlight for your trigger, and wire accordingly. You may have to modify depending on the type of switch you are using.... but the principal is the same..

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This will trigger the 170's when high beam is activated, when switched on....

cheers
Baz
:blueblob:
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I might not have described where I wired to correctly in my post. I tapped into the high beams at the driver's side (US) headlight. In Baz's diagram it would seem like I wired it correctly.

Maybe I just need to get a new relay.

Would a stuck relay keep the lights on even if the switch was turned off and the truck was turned off?
 

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YESSIR, indeed it would.
A relay is a remote switch. Terminals 30 and 87 are the two switched contacts, if stuck it's lights on.....
Tap the relay with a screwdriver handle my guess is your lights go out.
What you should do is take a multi meter and measure DC voltage at term 85 and 86' NO voltage, then measure at 30 and 87 NO voltage .... Relay is stuck closed. = lights on.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Cool beans. I'll just run to Autozone or the like in the morning and pick up a new one. I don't want to wire these another way as I like how they operate now. Just a bummer the relay went the crap after 6 months.

Thanks for all the help fellas:cheers:
 

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G'day,
Sounds like a plan.
Make sure your relay is mounted correctly, ie not side ways, always in the vertical with pins down.
Cheers
Baz
:blueblob:
 

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You should buy a multi meter and learn what has happened instead of just swapping parts.... Trust me you will use a multi meter for the rest of your life once you learn how to use one, plus it will save you a ton of time and cash.
Question to ask yourself If this relay has failed WHY, has it failed, Is it the relay or is the job it's trying to do to much for it. Always good to know why.
Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
It would seem that when I installed the ARB fog lights in the bumper a couple weeks ago I unmounted the relay for the Lightforces.

The relay was tucked in behind the battery laying sideways, not secured vertically like it had been. Whoops. Easy fix though.

I just got back from a road trip up through the mountains of Georgia and Tennessee where most of the roads were rutted out dirt tracks with water crossings. I would bet that's why the relay died.
 

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Manufactures only recommend tying into your high beam circuit as a CYA. If its clear enough for high beams than its clear enough to trigger their lights.

I would rewire the lights to their own independent circuit this way you can trigger the lights as you see fit with out causing any potential issues to your factory circuits.
 
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