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Discussion Starter #1
Sadly I have developed two warning lights simultaneously, the standard engine warning light combined with the “Slip” warning light.

This has occurred on start up when the car has been sat overnight which I’m assuming set the car in limp mode as performance was hindered some what.

I plugged in my cheap and cheerful diagnostic machine to show two faults. P2440 & P2442.
With the aid of Google and this wonderful forum it appears to be related to the secondary air system which is all new to me!
I cleared the faults and the car drove with no issues for around two days when sadly it returned in the same way on start up. (It’s Autumn...or Fall for my American friends, but not massively cold)

About the car:
It is a 2011 RHD 4 speed auto model imported from Japan to the UK.
Full service history with around 70,000 miles.
Used for normal driving conditions, not used off road and not driven through deep water or had the engine bay sprayed with water etc.

My questions are:
I’m assuming as two fault codes have appeared simultaneously then the report of the valve being stuck open for both banks is highly unlikely and as such is there a shared component that would indicate such a fault?
Has someone experienced such a fault that was rectified with a replacement part or was it something a little simplier?
As I’m quite new to the world of the FJ are these components easy to get to, any images, diagrams of what they look like and it’s location would be appreciated.

I’m hoping what ever is the fault that my local garage will be able to rectify it and source the parts as I’m envisaging them being difficult to source in the UK unless they are shared with the likes of the Land Cruiser?

Thanks in advance
 

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How's the battery?
As you say it's starting to get cold, that's when a battery problem often presents itself. I know that FJ's do weird things with low batteries.
All the air filters are clear? No rodents nesting in there?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Battery is spot on with no issues.

All filters, oil etc changed in August and certainly no rodents or evidence of anything like that.

I initially assumed that after clearing the fault codes the issue would have come back almost immediately if there was an immediate fault however I used the car for around 2 days with no problems.

I guess that’s the problem with electrical issues?
 

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Any kind of debris or leaves blocking any air intakes or anything? Had a friend get a leaf stuck on his MAF sensor and it caused him all kinds of grief. I know it sounds weird but worth a look its simple to do :)
 

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The secondary air injection (SAI) system only operates for a very short period of time during a cold start. The objective is to blow oxygen-rich air (relative to the exhaust gas) into the exhaust manifold upstream of the first catalytic converter to help the converter heat up more quickly and get the fuel injection system into close-loop mixture control mode ASAP.

The main components are:
1. A centrifugal air air pump;
2. An electrically operated 'secondary air switching valve' at each exhaust manifold;
3. A pressure sensor integrated with each valve.
4. A check valve (reed valve) integrated with each valve that is supposed to prevent exhaust gas from flowing back into the SAS valve and air pump.

Both the pump and the valves have some history of premature failure. The pump fails from corrosion caused by raw water getting into the pump intake, or sometimes it sheds pieces from a broken plastic impeller.
The valves apparently fail from moisture getting in through the pump, or possibly condensed from the exhaust gas.

It does seem odd that both your valves have 'failed' simultaneously. This could occur if the pump impeller was shedding pieces that got into both valves. Or, possibly some wiring fault that affected both valves.

You have done a comprehensive visual check of the valves for rodent-chewed wiring, loose or missing mounting bolts, or damage to the little pieces of rubber vacuum line that are present on the exterior of the valves?

As far as parts availability, although FJ Cruisers weren't distributed in the UK, what about the Prado and other Toyota vehicles that may have used the 1GR-FE engine? Not sure which world markets got the version of the engine with the SAI system except '13 and '14 USA, and apparently '11 and later JDM?

What's your level of mechanical aptitude? Some owners have had success in disassembling and cleaning the valves and pump, although a broken impeller means a new pump. There are also SAI 'bypass' kits available that disable the SAI system if strict emissions control system inspection is not enforced in your area.

Here's a photo of the air pump's plastic impeller, showing broken vanes:
(web photo)
SAI pump with broken vanes.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the advice, I’ve had a good look at all the wiring and everything appears in place with no obvious issues.

I have arranged a mechanic to have a look at it on Thursday with the hope that his diagnostic machine will pinpoint the exact issue.

I intend to have a look at the various parts mentioned and believe the picture I have attached shows the various mechanical parts involved. I’m still perplexed why 2 faults for both valves would show and when cleared doesn’t come back immediately. Is there a common electrical sensor for this and where would it be?

1145464
 

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Discussion Starter #7
My mechanic has reset and run tests on the fault codes displayed but sadly it doesn’t pinpoint the exact fault.

We have had a look at the blades of the pump and they were in perfect condition with no obvious issues.

Partially took off the left electric switching valve and I believe I can see what I believe is check valve at the base which has 2 small screws holding a fixed metal plate above it?
I’m guessing the valve itself is beyond this check valve by taking off the 2 screws?

I have held off from taking this off at the moment because it will be Sod’s law that one or both screws will snap!

I have attached a photo which shows some signs of corrosion albeit it wasn’t really bad (Unless you guys disagree?) there was a small amount of condensation inside but it was a short journey to the garage.

Does this look bad or relatively normal?

Ideally I would like an image of the internals showing the valve, does anybody have an image or tech drawing?

1145790
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Sadly the fault has come back again today on cold start up travelling home from work!

I have been advised by some chaps at a remapping garage that if the problem persists they can remap the ECU to ignore the valve fault and therefore the car won’t go into limp mode. They believe this won’t be an issue and won’t fail the UK emission rules or the running of the car.
Not sure if this is strictly true or not, any thoughts?

Either way I’m going to take them off first to inspect them & clean them first to see if this makes a difference.

I did find a stock image of a Toyota Valve below which I believe demonstrates the issue I may have with the check valve as I’m sure it was open a little similar to the image below



1145896
 

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Unfortunately I can't help with your most recent question about emissions however I'm also in the UK and very recently purchased a RHD FJ cruiser imported from Japan and have researched availability of parts. Thought I'd share my limited experience getting various bits and pieces for the FJ both prior to and after purchase

I've tended to alternate between the following three overseas suppliers when I've needed anything, each supply Toyota OEM parts- Megazip, Amayama Trading Company and Partsouq. Megazip and Amayama send parts from UAE and Japan warehouses- The shipping costs from Japan is usually double that from the UAE and for both you'll need to add on VAT and import duty and wait patiently for the part to arrive although my experience items from Megazip' have arrived the quickest sometimes within a week.

Megazip also have an excellent parts catalogue/schematics and you can drill down to sales territory.
Part number 25701-31014 Valve Set, Emission Control, No.1 (if this is the correct part) is listed for $110 (£87) plus shipping and taxes along with alternative/successor part numbers. I haven't identified a compatable part used on a UK domestic Toyota

As you know FJ parts avialibility in the UK is very limited but sometimes I've struck lucky on ebay or at a UK supplier. Nippon Auto spares for example say they can get most Toyota parts direct from the Japan often cheaper than Toyota main dealers- they had the rear door stay I needed in stock for £99. Toyota original.com again a UK supplier also make similiar claim. I've read Toyota main dealers can source parts for the FJ but I've not tried this as I've tended to find main dealers generally unhelpful

I've yet to make my introduction on the forum but will do soon- the knowledge and advice on the forum has been a great help in the limited time I've had the FJ.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Unfortunately I can't help with your most recent question about emissions however I'm also in the UK and very recently purchased a RHD FJ cruiser imported from Japan and have researched availability of parts. Thought I'd share my limited experience getting various bits and pieces for the FJ both prior to and after purchase

I've tended to alternate between the following three overseas suppliers when I've needed anything, each supply Toyota OEM parts- Megazip, Amayama Trading Company and Partsouq. Megazip and Amayama send parts from UAE and Japan warehouses- The shipping costs from Japan is usually double that from the UAE and for both you'll need to add on VAT and import duty and wait patiently for the part to arrive although my experience items from Megazip' have arrived the quickest sometimes within a week.

Megazip also have an excellent parts catalogue/schematics and you can drill down to sales territory.
Part number 25701-31014 Valve Set, Emission Control, No.1 (if this is the correct part) is listed for $110 (£87) plus shipping and taxes along with alternative/successor part numbers. I haven't identified a compatable part used on a UK domestic Toyota

As you know FJ parts avialibility in the UK is very limited but sometimes I've struck lucky on ebay or at a UK supplier. Nippon Auto spares for example say they can get most Toyota parts direct from the Japan often cheaper than Toyota main dealers- they had the rear door stay I needed in stock for £99. Toyota original.com again a UK supplier also make similiar claim. I've read Toyota main dealers can source parts for the FJ but I've not tried this as I've tended to find main dealers generally unhelpful

I've yet to make my introduction on the forum but will do soon- the knowledge and advice on the forum has been a great help in the limited time I've had the FJ.
Thanks ever so much for the names of suppliers which will be very useful as I’m guessing I will encounter a few stumbling blocks.

We must be in double figures of FJ’s in the UK by now!,😀
I’m going to guess your model is .......yellow?
 

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Thanks ever so much for the names of suppliers which will be very useful as I’m guessing I will encounter a few stumbling blocks.

We must be in double figures of FJ’s in the UK by now!,😀
I’m going to guess your model is .......yellow?
Thanks ever so much for the names of suppliers which will be very useful as I’m guessing I will encounter a few stumbling blocks.

We must be in double figures of FJ’s in the UK by now!,😀
I’m going to guess your model is .......yellow?
Silver fresco! Hope you get your problem with the FJ sorted.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well I’ve had no further issues since resetting it the second time.

Today I took both valves off to fully inspect them and to me there was nothing blatantly obvious apart what was mentioned before about the check valve being slightly open on both as shown in the photo. Not sure if this refers to the fault code on this check valve or the larger valve?

Either way gave them a good clean and appears to be 👌.



1146593
 

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Well I’ve had no further issues since resetting it the second time.

Today I took both valves off to fully inspect them and to me there was nothing blatantly obvious apart what was mentioned before about the check valve being slightly open on both as shown in the photo. Not sure if this refers to the fault code on this check valve or the larger valve?

Either way gave them a good clean and appears to be 👌.



View attachment 1146593
The wet-looking brown deposit on what should be the 'clean air' side of the valve (upstream of the reed valves) is troubling ... was it actually wet, or a coating of baked-on 'varnish'?

If wet, was it wet with water, or oil?

The reed valves being slightly open is a concern, and that may be related to the amount of gunk in the 'clean air' side; did you note if the reed valve itself was symmetrical? If so, that would allow it to be cleaned and flipped 180 degrees so that the slight bend in the valve preloaded it 'closed' against its seat, rather than staying slightly open at all times.

I wasn't familiar with your "Sod's Law" or "Finagle's Law" until I looked them up, but they're the equivalent of our 'Murphy's Law".

I understand your reluctance to try to remove the reed valve retaining screws, especially as Toyota may have used some secondary locking means to prevent screw loosening. But just a cautious application of heat to the housing, followed by a controlled application of torque, should reveal if they are willing to come out without risk of breaking the screw or stripping the driving recess.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
The wet-looking brown deposit on what should be the 'clean air' side of the valve (upstream of the reed valves) is troubling ... was it actually wet, or a coating of baked-on 'varnish'?

If wet, was it wet with water, or oil?

The reed valves being slightly open is a concern, and that may be related to the amount of gunk in the 'clean air' side; did you note if the reed valve itself was symmetrical? If so, that would allow it to be cleaned and flipped 180 degrees so that the slight bend in the valve preloaded it 'closed' against its seat, rather than staying slightly open at all times.

I wasn't familiar with your "Sod's Law" or "Finagle's Law" until I looked them up, but they're the equivalent of our 'Murphy's Law".

I understand your reluctance to try to remove the reed valve retaining screws, especially as Toyota may have used some secondary locking means to prevent screw loosening. But just a cautious application of heat to the housing, followed by a controlled application of torque, should reveal if they are willing to come out without risk of breaking the screw or stripping the driving recess.
Thanks for the advice, flipping the check valve sounds a good idea to effectively straighten it, sounds obvious now!
I hope the screws will come off so next time I will follow your advice. I wonder what material it’s made of?

Forgot about UK slang, apologies! English language is great!

The area was slightly wet with moisture, car hadn’t been run for a couple of days and the weather is quite cold & foggy today, not sure if that had anything to with it?

The varnished/brown appearance I think is rust and not a lot came off when cleaned. Will keep this posted for developments.
 
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