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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,

Been lurking and reading for awhile.
Pretty much thinking on getting a 2" LT setup (3.5" involves too much)

Q1: Anyone used the All-Pro setup ?

they claim 12" of travel.
Most I've read around here talk about the TC (2" or 3.5") or Camburg (only available in 3.5")

Thinking about getting Fox LT coilovers w/ it.

Q2: what are my options for the rear ?

Q3: how does it affect the occasional rock crawling ? less clearance, same, more ?

Thanks a lot,
 

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Hi,

Been lurking and reading for awhile.
Pretty much thinking on getting a 2" LT setup (3.5" involves too much)

Q1: Anyone used the All-Pro setup ?

they claim 12" of travel.
Most I've read around here talk about the TC (2" or 3.5") or Camburg (only available in 3.5")

Thinking about getting Fox LT coilovers w/ it.

Q2: what are my options for the rear ?

Q3: how does it affect the occasional rock crawling ? less clearance, same, more ?

Thanks a lot,
A lot more people are running the TC instead of the AllPro. TC's LT Tacoma youtube video had me sold after I saw it. For the rear you can do a 3 link from Metal tech with the stock axle, a Dana 60 straight swap (same 4 links), or a Dana 60 with a custom 3 link. Those are also in order from least to most expensive. The LT kit in the front will allow you more articulation so it will do better rock crawling than the stock lower and upper control arms. Clearance does not change.

One thing that SHOULD be mentioned is that the TC 2+ kit gives you about 10.5 inches of wheel travel (FJNewb discovered this). I highly doubt that AllPro's kit gets 12" of wheel travel without significant fender well modifications.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
To answer some of the questions asked, I rather have a suspension that can handle pretty much any situation, especially @ higher speeds, I want the suspension to behave in a controlled manner. I won't be racing the FJ, but a baja style suspension would make me happy.

I'd love to get the 3.5" but with all set and done, we're talking close to 10k$... still not decided, but I might bite that bullet... but in another hand, a 2" seems to be a good compromise @ lower cost.

Do you guys have more information on the 3-link rears ???

Also to mention that front + rear bumper will be changed and putting winch + lights too... so I want the suspension to be able to handle the weight... maybe a 50 lb/in extra spring rate, who knows... but then, the valving of the shocks should be corresponding to the rate. Which of the big shock companies offer custom valving... I rather have the right valving, especially if we start changing spring rates.

Hmmm.
Concerning the rotor clearance, I've been thinking about it for awhile... including brake upgrade.
I was thinking on getting longer ARP studs, put a 1/2" spacer between the hub + rotor, and refab the bracket on the after market big-brake upgrade... that should clear the rotor.
This will be a longer term project... first I need to focus on the suspension.

Thanks,

btw, for a little background... I know quite a bit about suspension but more on asphalt race cars (done my share of racing)... not offroad, nor dirt. So you can go ahead and shoot me with detailed technical info, I can take it ;-)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Outside of a direct replacement with better springs and shocks. Things get over a couple grand quite quickly. A 3 link rear will run close to $5k on an oem axle.
Hypothetically speaking, which one of the following 2 alternatives is a better setup ?

  1. LT 3.5" (including what is needed to accomplish it, fenders, etc) for front and get direct replacement parts for rear (springs/shocks/spacers)
  2. LT 2" + 3-link in the rear
 

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2007 Black FJC
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x2. With the 2" kit up front, you're already going to be badly limited by the rear. A 3.5" up front and just a stock swap in back will make the balance even worse.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
ok... thanks.

Another question to throw out there, and maybe I'll get crucified for it.

My understanding is that w/ the LT 2", one should expect ~3" of suspension "lift" compared to stock.
Also, one is limited by the upper travel.
My thought is what if one was to take portion of the RoughCountry 6" lift (minus shocks + springs ) and add it to the LT 2" setup ?

If I see this right, we would be lowering the wheel and shock mounts by 3", yet keep the upper arm in same location. the Lower Arms are lower too by 3".

down travel would be limited by the upper arm, instead of the lower arm on the rotor.
We would lose some lower travel but gain upper travel, but I'd think the gain in the upper would be greater than the loss in the lower travel... and decreasing the odds of bottoming out @ higher speeds (but the Center of gravity would be higher, though).

Am I seeing it right ???
 

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Discussion Starter #11
never mind, the LCA limits the upper travel, not the lower travel... I'd be having the same upper travel, but more wheel clearances only, and limiting my lower travel, probably... but if same travel is achieved, maybe it's something to consider for wheel clearances only.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
exactly... the 6" will bring nothing in terms of travel... if anything, it can limit some down-travel... but give more clearance for taller tires.

The problem w/ the LCA and the rotor interference, and the idea of putting a spacer + refab the rotor bracket will bring me into another set of issues... ie it will push the wheel more out and I might get interference w/ the fenders... at which point one is better off just going w/ the 3.5" and new fenders... so I guess it's really the most one can get w/ the 2.5" LT.

Now I need to research on the 3-link rear setup and what exactly is involved for fabbing... and $.

For ppl that have the 2.5" LT, how much lift compared to stock does it give you ? If I get ~3", I'd like it.
 

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Total Chaos hands down.

TC has been building high performance IFS parts, now longer than anyone else out there offering competing products. On top of that, that is all they do. They don't build contract trophy trucks, they don't build bumpers/sliders etc. and just now offering their first long travel IFS kit, shoot they don't even sell shocks. TC was the first to offer the LT kit for the FJC years ago, using their proven fully boxed lower arm, others followed. The bearings TC uses they worked with US bearing manufacturers to HAVE made for better performance. TC also makes all of their parts in house, and stocks spares if they are needed.

1.25 uni-ball vrs. 1.0 uni-ball = bigger must be better, so people will buy XYZ product. First off uni-balls do not fail due to size when we are talking a 1.0 or a 1.25. (Put away the shear and PSI charts, just ain't gona happen with our applications) 1.0" continues to be the go to size for off road racing. Uni-balls fail #1 due to a poor quality bearing being used. Like any bearing they are offered in several different grades for the same size. This is how several UCA manufacturers can offer UCA's that look like others but sell for $100's less. A cheep uni-bearing looses its lining (if it has any) and gets sloppy/makes noise. For our FJ Cruisers a quality uni-ball will fail (#2 here) due to corrosion and ware from road grime working into the lining. Lining fails, the bearing has sloop etc. 1.25" or 1.0" both will ware just as quick. (and not all that fast when kept clean and a quality bearing was used first) They do not fail due to catastrophic failure, i.e. the assumed need for a bigger uni-ball.

The other issue (mostly with an UCA) is there is already a tight clearance off the body that holds the uni-bearing and the tire on stock off set rims. Make that uni-ball larger, well the cup needs to be larger OR made with thinner walls for fit. They clear but they are close to the tire. Bottom line, there is little to no gain for 1.25" uni-balls over 1.0" in our application, its marketing at its finest.

Pound for pound, the TC 2" long travel kit is the best off the shelf suspension out there for the front of the FJ Cruiser. By no means is it the cheapest but over all it is a proven product that is backed by a strong company.

Mark
 

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@ Mark,

Thanks for sending me the Icon shocks (and everything else I ordered) for my TC 2" kit... looking forward to installing it soon. What spacer do you recommend for the rear axle to get the track width matched up with the front?

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #18
my understanding is that a bypass shock is only possible on the TC 3.5" kit (not the 2" kit)
am I correct ?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
so if one reaches the limit of upper travel before fender interference, even w/ 35s... why is it that it seems to be so many nayers on 35s ?
I don't mind doing the little grinding mod on the support point to accommodate 35s.
 
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