Toyota FJ Cruiser Forum banner

81 - 100 of 130 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,036 Posts
<snip>An open ended wrench grabs the thing just fine.
<snip>
Also, you can pull the center console and work this spot through the cab floor. It's right there.
Hm. Been to the hardware store 2 times.
Once to get a 1-1/16" wrench to fit this switch, and once to get an open end crows-foot which they didn't have.
For the life of me I cannot get a wrench in there where it's oriented so I can get it out. Not enough room. I even tried an 8" adjustable. Not enough room through the hole and not enough room from underneath.

the good news is that I put a paperclip in to verify that his will fix the issues...and it does. Now I just need to get that damn thing swapped out. I already have the switch...which was about $90, BTW.

Oh well. I was hoping to find the silver bullet as to why I cannot get to my switch. "should be easy". NOT. Mine is about 4" behind the hole. Going out to verify the old switch. Maybe it was just a bad connection.
If the switch is bad, I bring her in with switch and have it swapped out.

Good news? I now have three new wrenches...
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,185 Posts
Hm. Been to the hardware store 2 times.
Once to get a 1-1/16" wrench to fit this switch, and once to get an open end crows-foot which they didn't have.
For the life of me I cannot get a wrench in there where it's oriented so I can get it out. Not enough room. I even tried an 8" adjustable. Not enough room through the hole and not enough room from underneath.

the good news is that I put a paperclip in to verify that his will fix the issues...and it does. Now I just need to get that damn thing swapped out. I already have the switch...which was about $90, BTW.

Oh well. I was hoping to find the silver bullet as to why I cannot get to my switch. "should be easy". NOT. Mine is about 4" behind the hole. Going out to verify the old switch. Maybe it was just a bad connection.
If the switch is bad, I bring her in with switch and have it swapped out.

Good news? I now have three new wrenches...

Wow. That's more work that I thought. Sorry about that!

I had an aftermarket transfer case in there, and I suppose it moved those spots forward because they're right under the hole. Nevertheless, you're not out of options. You can get a couple more inches of space if you release the bolt-in crossmember and lower the angle on the powertrain slightly. You'll have to have a jack in there supporting the tranny before you unbolt the crossmember, of course, and depending on how much you've bashed up the crossmember, it may be an easy or a hard removal... but the rubber engine mounts will let the whole powertrain angle down slightly and give you crucial inches.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,036 Posts
Thanks Jon.
I basically gave up, which is against my grain. But it's in the upper 20's today and not very pleasant to be wrenching. So I went out for my annual New Years Day motorcycle ride instead. A bit cold for that too. But tradition IS tradition.

Anyway, I did verify that the front drivers side switch is the culprit without a doubt. Thanks for the tip on this. Shorting out the pigtail gave me the desired ATRAC and Rear Locker lights. And I also ohmed out the switch itself with the transfer case in Low. The switch never shorts out, always open.

I left everything unbuttoned and will drop t off at the dealer in the morning. I wonder what they do/use.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,185 Posts
Thanks Jon.
I basically gave up, which is against my grain. But it's in the upper 20's today and not very pleasant to be wrenching. So I went out for my annual New Years Day motorcycle ride instead. A bit cold for that too. But tradition IS tradition.

Anyway, I did verify that the front drivers side switch is the culprit without a doubt. Thanks for the tip on this. Shorting out the pigtail gave me the desired ATRAC and Rear Locker lights. And I also ohmed out the switch itself with the transfer case in Low. The switch never shorts out, always open.

I left everything unbuttoned and will drop t off at the dealer in the morning. I wonder what they do/use.
I bet they drop the whole friggin' case.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,036 Posts
Yep. That's what they did. And had the weather been better, it doesn't look to be a real big deal...now that I've been all over it. (That's always the case.)

So, with a stock transfer case I COULD get a wrench on the switch and disconnect the wires from the harness through the hole under the shifter. But it was all I could do to get in there. Too far back. I couldn't turn the wrench once I shoe-horned it in there.
The trick is to get it from underneath by removing the cross-brace holding up the transfer case. Allow it to drop slightly and you should be able to get it from underneath.
The switch alone was $75 from the dealer. The afterthought 2 hours of labor...another story. I didn't lose by attempting it myself first. Just a lot of aggravation. But now I know for next time.

You were dead-on about the switch though. And which one it was. Good call.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
116 Posts
Does anyone have any ideas as to why these go bad? I just replaced my third failed one. Next time I'm just replacing it with a manual switch on the dashboard.


Next, as you pass through neutral in the shift pattern, it's the REAR driver's side switch that gets activated, and the neutral gear indicator on the dash comes on. I'm unable to find any other purpose for this switch, and so I consider it unnecessary. If you can't tell by the fact that you're gunning it and going nowhere that you're in neutral, you don't deserve to be driving a 4x4.
On my manual transmission equipped model the rear drivers side switch is for 4 low. When this switch fails you cannot activate the rear locker or A-TRAC.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
330 Posts
Does anyone have any ideas as to why these go bad? I just replaced my third failed one. Next time I'm just replacing it with a manual switch on the dashboard.




On my manual transmission equipped model the rear drivers side switch is for 4 low. When this switch fails you cannot activate the rear locker or A-TRAC.
Is there any problem with over riding this switch with a manual switch that anyone can see?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
136 Posts
2007 6MT 40k miles....add me to the list of "No dash indication of t/case state".

It shifts cleanly, no noises. It's in 4LO as the speed/rpm/feel are all right but the dash says nothing. :(

Great thread, when I get some time in the next couple of weeks I"m going to check the switches with the FSM pdf posted here and see what happens.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
201 Posts
2007 6MT 40k miles....add me to the list of "No dash indication of t/case state".

It shifts cleanly, no noises. It's in 4LO as the speed/rpm/feel are all right but the dash says nothing. :(

Great thread, when I get some time in the next couple of weeks I"m going to check the switches with the FSM pdf posted here and see what happens.
Went out for the first 4-wheeling of the year today, same problem in an 07 6MT with 48k miles - no lights, no atrac or locker.:flame: At least with a manual it WILL go into 4-lo even with bad switches!:boohoo:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,036 Posts
--Thread-back from the dead--

well after my SECOND transfer case 4lo sensor switch went bad, I didn't feel like paying for another.
I went underneath, cut the wires off the old switch (leaving the stock connector/pigtail intact) and wired in a manual switch.
Now when I go to 4Lo, I hit the switch and can engage the rear locker and ATRAC. It's good to know I'll never have this damn issue again.

Carry-on!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
196 Posts
I left everything unbuttoned and will drop t off at the dealer in the morning. I wonder what they do/use.


AN850817B, Wrench, Crowfoot, Flare Nut, 1 1/16", 12-Point

Thats what I use 1 1/16" all you need to do it break it loose then you can get it out by hand no need to drop the transfer case or cross member...

I've been bypassing the switches for some on my customers all you have to do is ground out the signal wire at the 4wd ecu

Some guys use these but I find the socket easier to use
VS34B, Wrench, Open End, 4-Way Angle Head, 1 1/16"
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
54 Posts
I am having this same problem, but can't seem to figure out if I need to order part# 84222-12010 Transfer Indication Switch or Part# 84222-35080 Transfer Indication Switch for an 08 Automatic?

Thanks in advance for any assistance!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,766 Posts
Re: --Thread-back from the dead--

well after my SECOND transfer case 4lo sensor switch went bad, I didn't feel like paying for another.
I went underneath, cut the wires off the old switch (leaving the stock connector/pigtail intact) and wired in a manual switch.
Now when I go to 4Lo, I hit the switch and can engage the rear locker and ATRAC. It's good to know I'll never have this damn issue again.

Carry-on!
My 6MT was totaled back in october but prior to that i had put manual switches in mine.

http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forums/transmissions-transfer-cases-traction-aids/116568-rear-locker-issues-fixed-transfer-case-switch.html
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,093 Posts
So, if the passenger side switch goes bad will the other switches even be able to activate?

The switches are just spring loaded steel balls inside a threaded housing. There are ridges that protrude off to the side of the slides within the transfer case that roll and depress these ball-switches as they go by, closing a circuit. In this manner, the switches "detect" the position of the shifter. The switch mechanisms themselves appear identical. The only difference is the wire connector at the other end. If you wanted to go crazy, you could remove any of these and put them in a different position, as long as you were willing to cut out the connector and go to an electric tape splice junction instead.

Any of these switches could be defeated or bypassed by just unplugging the connector and shoving a home-made jumper of tinfoil or a bent paperclip in the open end, completing the circuit.

If I remember correctly, there are three switches configured with two on the left (driver's) side and one on the right.

The one on the right detects when you switch from 2WD to 4WD. Once this switch is closed, the ADD system engages and actually completes the process of putting you in 4WD. Once the ADD activates properly, a switch is closed which lights the symbol on your dashboard. This is the reason that there may be a momentary delay during which there is a small audible CLICK between shifting into 4WD and seeing the dashboard light. If you lose the right sided switch at the transfer case, you will NOT be able to engage 4WD even though you are physically engaging the front drive shaft. This is because no torque is applied to the passenger side front wheel until the ADD engages too. Since the front differential is OPEN (unless you're like me and put a locker up there), all the torque will be lost and no drive will be applied to the other, driver's side, wheel.

In an emergency field situation, I recommend getting under there and attempting the tinfoil trick.

The next switch to be contacted is actually the REAR LEFT (you'd think, based on the movement of the bottom end of the shift lever that it would be the front left switch, but it's not... trust me... I festered over this for several hours and tested it electrically and then opened the transfer case to see ... and verified that this is how it is designed to occur). The rear left switch is apparently ONLY a LIGHT SWITCH. It detects when the transfer case shift lever is in the neutral position and indicates as such on the dashboard. There is apparently no computer reaction to this. I know so because I installed Lefty and had to abandon this switch. There was no consequence.

The FRONT LEFT switch detects having switched into LOW GEAR. Without having this switch closed, the rear locker will not be permitted to activate. Again, if the switch has become faulty, a field repair could be to jump the connector by disconnecting and replacing the switch with a jumper.

To get to these connectors, you have a couple of options. One would be to get under the vehicle and then reach up over the transmission and feel where the wires connect to the transfer case. This is very close to where the shift lever goes up through the floor of the body. If you start by feeling the obvious wire connections to the transfer case, and then feel along the wires going forward onto the transmission, you'll find the obvious plastic connectors. It tiakes two hands to pop these connectors open, you have to squeeze them side to side and then pull. Once open, you may be able to drop them down to where you can see to do the jumper maneuver. The problem is that there are nice Toyota OEM wire supports here and there. I remember a pretty sturdy bracket too... good luck.

The other way is to pull the console. This is actually easier than it sounds. There are some nice snap-in connectors that hold it in place. I forget if there are any screws, but if there are, they're OBVIOUS. There are basically no tricks to pulling this thing out. There is a little part that you can pop out at the base of the e-brake handle, and I think you just yank straight up after that and it comes out without any carnage. I've got an AT, and the shifter is held down with 2 small bolts. I think it was a 12 mm socket. I have to undo these bolts and then move the AT shifter in order to fully expose the boot around the transfer case shift lever. 4 screws hold that down. Once they're off, I can see through the opening to the transfer case and the wires are just there to the right and left.

When I put in Lefty, I had to disconnect and reconnect those wires through that hole. It wasn't difficult. There was just enough slack that I could do the work under direct vision through the opening. I made it slightly MORE difficult by using an Ohm meter to sleuth out which switch was which when I managed to confuse myself, but with a helping hand holding the connectors, I was able to get all the info that I needed.

If you get into trouble, this is a do-able field repair. Just don't do like I did and muck with the wires when the exhaust pipe is hot!

That's everything I know about these switches. ;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Toyotateh1,

Please help, I have Lexus Gx 470, and I tested the L4 switch mentioned in this thread by jumping the connectors. It is defective switch. How would I go about removing it without dropping the transfer case. I am attaching picture to show clearance. I see you used on FJ, crowfeet 27MM or 1 1/16, without dropping the transfercase. Do you think I can do the same on GX 470 2004?

Any detailed input is appreciated .



AN850817B, Wrench, Crowfoot, Flare Nut, 1 1/16", 12-Point

Thats what I use 1 1/16" all you need to do it break it loose then you can get it out by hand no need to drop the transfer case or cross member...

I've been bypassing the switches for some on my customers all you have to do is ground out the signal wire at the 4wd ecu

Some guys use these but I find the socket easier to use
VS34B, Wrench, Open End, 4-Way Angle Head, 1 1/16"
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,204 Posts
Mine did it several times & always when I really needed it also. Just did the hack for the rear DIFF today & it eliminates the switch & is free thanks to 31moppie here on the forum. Now I don't have to worry about the switch going bad again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
thanks Toyotatech1,

I did exactly what you recommended, got myself a crowfoot socket from amazon. I have a 2007 MT I took both switches off and I just banged the switches bearing side down on a bench a couple of times. Then I put them both back in and the rear locker and A-Track work again. I guess the contacts inside were gummed up or something. The hardest part was disconnecting the electrical plugs.

thanks again
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
68 Posts
Big thank you to Toyotatech1 for this info! I went to the dealer and they wanted to charge me almost $1,000 to change the 4Lo switch in the transfer case as my ATRAC and diff lock would not engage in 4Lo. They told me they would need to remove the crossmember and drop my transfer case to get access. Then I found this info on here, ordered the part and crowfoot and changed it myself for less then $100. This forum has been awesome, so I just wanted to confirm for others out there that this can in fact be done this way. The only other tip I would recommend is to remove the center console and get to the wiring for the switch from the top as it is very easy from this angle, then go under the truck and remove the switch.

AN850817B, Wrench, Crowfoot, Flare Nut, 1 1/16", 12-Point

Thats what I use 1 1/16" all you need to do it break it loose then you can get it out by hand no need to drop the transfer case or cross member...

I've been bypassing the switches for some on my customers all you have to do is ground out the signal wire at the 4wd ecu

Some guys use these but I find the socket easier to use
VS34B, Wrench, Open End, 4-Way Angle Head, 1 1/16"
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
68 Posts
Well the new 4Lo switch I installed in June has already failed, looks like I'm going to a manual switch so I don't have to deal with this anymore. Very frustrating that Toyota hasn't replaced that switch for something reliable after 8 years of failures (thread started in 2007).
 
81 - 100 of 130 Posts
Top