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Well the new 4Lo switch I installed in June has already failed, looks like I'm going to a manual switch so I don't have to deal with this anymore. Very frustrating that Toyota hasn't replaced that switch for something reliable after 8 years of failures (thread started in 2007).

Well at least you can do all of the wiring from inside. No need to drop underneath.. I haven't had this issue yet on my 07, knock on wood.


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Mine went out years ago & i did the hack on the 4X4 blue control box in the drivers side foot panel form this forum. Cut one wire cap it, ground the other. No need for the switch anymore & ATRAC & locker now at all speeds.
 

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I am having a similar issue. It has been a while since I ran my FJC as I was overseas on orders. My girlfriend has been driving it. When I got home I did a once over and no 4wd. Is there a simple step by step procedure for checking the switches? I only recently signed up and did a search but didn’t find anything. I don’t think it’s the gears as they haven’t been used at all.
 

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MOAB SUPERSTAR
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We
I am having a similar issue. It has been a while since I ran my FJC as I was overseas on orders. My girlfriend has been driving it. When I got home I did a once over and no 4wd. Is there a simple step by step procedure for checking the switches? I only recently signed up and did a search but didn’t find anything. I don’t think it’s the gears as they haven’t been used at all.
Welcome! Need more specifics - how many miles on your FJ, and what exactly happens when you attempt to engage 4wd, 4lo, ATRAC etc. You can easily confirm whether 4wd is actually engaged by attempring to drive in a tight circle on pavement - FJ will immediately buck and scrub as it binds (don’t do this long...just enough to confirm). Might be the switch on the transfer case is not communicating with the ECU (cheap part, hard to reach) or that the actuator is not functioning (expensive part, relatively easy to reach). Both are not uncommon occurrences in regions with salted roads. In my case it was the actuator compromised by corrosion. Lots of threads on here about this.
Another way to diagnose this is to have Toyota read any stored codes.
 

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Welcome! Need more specifics - how many miles on your FJ, and what exactly happens when you attempt to engage 4wd, 4lo, ATRAC etc. You can easily confirm whether 4wd is actually engaged by attempring to drive in a tight circle on pavement - FJ will immediately buck and scrub as it binds (don’t do this long...just enough to confirm). Might be the switch on the transfer case is not communicating with the ECU (cheap part, hard to reach) or that the actuator is not functioning (expensive part, relatively easy to reach). Both are not uncommon occurrences in regions with salted roads. In my case it was the actuator compromised by corrosion. Lots of threads on here about this.
Another way to diagnose this is to have Toyota read any stored codes.
My FJ is a 2007 with about 98,000 miles on the odometer. When I try to engage 4wd or 4lo I see no lights at all which includes ATRAC. When I put the rear lock on I can see the ABS, rear axle locked, and the slippery when wet lights :). I had it up on jack stands to test the 4wd, because I was putting new brake pads on, and it wouldn't engage. The first time I noticed I had no 4wd was when we were offroad outside of Vegas, we were totally stuck and I am glad that my friend had a 4x4 truck to pull us out. Can you tell me where the switch is on the transfer case that you changed out? I greatly appreciate you communicating with me on this. As a newbie, I am not familiar with any sort of step by step procedure for doing this. Is there one on this forum?
 

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MOAB SUPERSTAR
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Here is my pic of a hack on that switch, rear passenger side of the TC - hooked up a switch in my dash to bypass it vs swapping for a new switch. There are diagrams and other threads in the subject here - type in FJ Cruiser/search term into your browser and you’ll get lots of info from this forum. Toyota parts websites and even the dealership will have diagrams showing the switch. It’s hard to know if lack of 4wd engaging is due to the switch or the actuator without testing the actuator or swapping /hacking the switch, which is why so many dealerships just routinely I install a new actuator.

Edit - cannot get pics to load at the monemt
 

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Here is my pic of a hack on that switch, rear passenger side of the TC - hooked up a switch in my dash to bypass it vs swapping for a new switch. There are diagrams and other threads in the subject here - type in FJ Cruiser/search term into your browser and you’ll get lots of info from this forum. Toyota parts websites and even the dealership will have diagrams showing the switch. It’s hard to know if lack of 4wd engaging is due to the switch or the actuator without testing the actuator or swapping /hacking the switch, which is why so many dealerships just routinely I install a new actuator.

Edit - cannot get pics to load at the monemt
is there a step by step procedure that you could share? I am having trouble getting the wires disconnected so I can remove the sensor to test it.....newbie I know.
 

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No this is actually a difficult little switch! Which is why i just did a bypass. I know there’s threads on here about changing the switches and even a description of how to make a remover tool. Did you try doing a search starting with your browser - not the forum search function?
 

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No this is actually a difficult little switch! Which is why i just did a bypass. I know there’s threads on here about changing the switches and even a description of how to make a remover tool. Did you try doing a search starting with your browser - not the forum search function?
Greatly appreciate your help......all I need is someway to remove the switch that is in the transfer case. It was hard enough getting the little wire connections done. I searched the forum and outside the fj cruiser forum for such a tool with no luck. Is it easier to access this switch from the interior or do I actually need to remove something big (like the transfer case) to remove it? That is a very difficult switch to get to.
 

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Indeed it is. Here’s the tools my research showed would get to it, one is homemade. Mind you I did not end up attempting to remove the sensor, so I wish you luck and please post pics! And you shouldn’t have to remove anything else to get to it - others have managed.

1118653
1118654
 

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AN850817B, Wrench, Crowfoot, Flare Nut, 1 1/16", 12-Point

Thats what I use 1 1/16" all you need to do it break it loose then you can get it out by hand no need to drop the transfer case or cross member...

I've been bypassing the switches for some on my customers all you have to do is ground out the signal wire at the 4wd ecu

Some guys use these but I find the socket easier to use
VS34B, Wrench, Open End, 4-Way Angle Head, 1 1/16"
This crowfoot tool works for both sides of the transfer case? I have an A-TRAC switch that I think has failed on the transfer case on the drivers side. The basic wiring was tough enough with the tricky bracket but I was able to disconnect it. Now I just need a wrench to remove the actual Low Lock switch from the transfer case.
 

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Indeed it is. Here’s the tools my research showed would get to it, one is homemade. Mind you I did not end up attempting to remove the sensor, so I wish you luck and please post pics! And you shouldn’t have to remove anything else to get to it - others have managed.

View attachment 1118653 View attachment 1118654
I will post pictures. You sent this just as I posted a posting about a clawfoot tool to another member. :)
 

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I'm not sure how people managed to replace these without lowering the transfer case. I just finished up replacing both switches on a 6MT. I did drop the transfer case support and disconnected the exhaust so I had more room to move. In the end it was a full afternoon to get it done. Individual results may vary :)

I used a 27mm crowfoot.

Hopefully the replacements will last at least a few years - otherwise the next step is a bypass. The bypass would be a lot easier as it can be reached from above.
 

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I have performed failure analysis on several of these transfer case switches, and all failed from gear oil getting past an internal rubber diaphragm and contaminating the internal brass electrical contacts. None of them failed from water or road salt entering from outside the switch.

See: Search results for query: failure analysis

The only thing that I can see that might tend to increase the probability of failure is a blocked transfer case breather that allows internal pressure to build inside the transfer case and force oil past the rubber diaphragm.

In a rare example of Toyota design error, these switches are poorly designed in that there is no "wiping" action at the internal contacts as the switch opens and closes. Even the slightest contamination or tarnish on the contacts can result in high electrical resistance, and the ECU doesn't see this as a switch closure.
 

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I'm not sure how people managed to replace these without lowering the transfer case. I just finished up replacing both switches on a 6MT. I did drop the transfer case support and disconnected the exhaust so I had more room to move. In the end it was a full afternoon to get it done. Individual results may vary :)

I used a 27mm crowfoot.

Hopefully the replacements will last at least a few years - otherwise the next step is a bypass. The bypass would be a lot easier as it can be reached from above.
The clawfoot worked for me but I have an automatic transmission. Once you get the wiring connector free, which was a job all in itself, the clawfoot should go up easily to each of the rear switches. Again, mine in an automatic not a manual. Where did you purchase the switches that you changed out? I paid about $75.00 for the one that I am changing out. I hope there is a place that sells these at a lower price point.
 

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I got mine from parts.salinastoyota.com
8422235080​
1
$ 61.24​
SWITCH
TRANSFER INDICATOR, NO. 1; TRANSFER INDICATOR, NO. 2.

I had the #3 switch that I bought a while ago but hadn't got around to installing yet.
Salinas is close to me so it came within the week.
 

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This is how much room I had:
crowfoot.jpg


For a guide I used the 6MT replacement video:
and just followed the process to lower the transmission/transfer case enough for them to start unplugging things from the top. At each step I tried to get the crowfoot onto the switch but could not...
 
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