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Just changed out the switch on the passengers side.....still no A-TRAC indicator light. Should I change out the other two switches on the drivers side, or are those just for rear differential lock? Any other gouge that could be provided?

If anyone know of a place to purchase these switches cheaper than $65-$75 per switch please let us know.
 

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The wiring was strange as it was the switch end that was mounted on the metal tab vs the harness. I had to bend it out to be able to get a screwdriver under the release tab to un mount it. After that I had easy access to the push tab to release them.
Did you bend the bracket back with the switch connected or left it bent?
 

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Those look like fun
Looking at the auto man page, you have #1 L4 switch closest to the front and #2 neutral position switch towards the back - both drivers side (A750F auto transaxle page) So #1 is what you need for A-TRAC, unless you have a different auto. I got this manual in 2007 so it might be old too, but that's what I'm seeing.
 

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Just changed out the switch on the passengers side.....still no A-TRAC indicator light. Should I change out the other two switches on the drivers side, or are those just for rear differential lock? Any other gouge that could be provided?

If anyone know of a place to purchase these switches cheaper than $65-$75 per switch please let us know.
Hi
Just changed out the switch on the passengers side.....still no A-TRAC indicator light. Should I change out the other two switches on the drivers side, or are those just for rear differential lock? Any other gouge that could be provided?

If anyone know of a place to purchase these switches cheaper than $65-$75 per switch please let us know.
Rather than just blindly replacing switches at $75 a pop, hoping that eventually you might fix the problem, why not simply TEST the switches before removing them?

All it takes is a digital multimeter with an ohms function and someone to move the transfer case lever while you probe the switch connector after de-mating it from the wiring harness.
The resistance should be in the megohm range with the switch “open”, and less than 0.1 ohm when the switch is “closed”.

MUCH simpler, MUCH faster, and MUCH less expensive than replacing the switch while not knowing if it is the root cause of the problem or not.
 

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Hi

Rather than just blindly replacing switches at $75 a pop, hoping that eventually you might fix the problem, why not simply TEST the switches before removing them?

All it takes is a digital multimeter with an ohms function and someone to move the transfer case lever while youprobe the switch connector after de-mating it from the wiring harness.
The resistance should be in the megohm range with the switch “open”, and less than 0.1 ohm when the switch is “closed”.

MUCH simpler, MUCH faster, and much less expensive than replacing the switch while not knowing if it is the root cause of the problem or not.
That's a good idea that I had thought of before but it slipped my mind recently. Thanks for the gouge. Those switches are b__ches. Even the connectors sorta suck to take off as they are tucked up and away.
 
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