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Nice that's a great idea. Are you able to access the front zerks? I was thinking a gun with a 90 degree elbow.
 

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Let's see 'em!

:blueblob:
Didn't finish until 11 pm last night, too dark for pictures, I can take some when I get off work today. I guess they are copycat version of the total chaos ones but they look exactly the same except for no TC logo. The factory mount is so weak, mines flared out a bit at the bottom, using just a wrench I was able to easily bend it straight by hand, no wonder they get squashed on the rocks.
 

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Didn't finish until 11 pm last night, too dark for pictures, I can take some when I get off work today. I guess they are copycat version of the total chaos ones but they look exactly the same except for no TC logo. The factory mount is so weak, mines flared out a bit at the bottom, using just a wrench I was able to easily bend it straight by hand, no wonder they get squashed on the rocks.
Do they come powder coated or painted or just bare metal?

I was just looking at the ones from Trailworx, which are the same 3/16" thickness but his look like the tab is longer (longer slope) and more durable because the tab bolts into the frame on the side and the tab itself has sides, plus they're powder-coated black.
They cost almost twice as much though.
I have photos of both below for comparison.
I might end up going with Dave's.
 

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Do they come powder coated or painted or just bare metal?

I was just looking at the ones from Trailworx, which are the same 3/16" thickness but his look like the tab is longer (longer slope) and more durable because the tab bolts into the frame on the side and the tab itself has sides, plus they're powder-coated black.
They cost almost twice as much though.
I know bigger is better, but I'm just not sure if I need that much beef in that area.
I'll have to mull it over.
They come bare metal only. Dave's is better, more complete coverage, the front is bolted down as well to prevent the leading edge from flipping down when engaging with rocks. Comes with a price. I wouldn't buy the metaltech's for $100 but for $69 they are good enough for me.

Mines right now looks just like that pic you posted of the total chaos ones minus the rust, just no TC logo
 

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Does the TC lowers being a smaller OD negate the need for them being offset?

I'm shooting for maximum wheel travel, not wheel articulation. TC advertises their full link kit as offering 1.5" more droop.
 

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Discussion Starter #73
Does the TC lowers being a smaller OD negate the need for them being offset?

I'm shooting for maximum wheel travel, not wheel articulation. TC advertises their full link kit as offering 1.5" more droop.
Good question, I've always wondered that as well. If someone had the MT LT shocks and TC lower links they could tell us...
 

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Dobinson from Australia seems to be somewhat of new player in the US market their UCA and Lower links are
38mm/1.5" wall thickness 5mm/.2." Made with HSLA steel, High Strenghth Low Allow.."HSLA steel cross-sections and structures are usually 20 to 30% lighter than a carbon steel with the same strength."wikipedia. The uca come with Sankei 555 ball joints. Here a link for the rear lowers
https://www.amazon.com/Dobinsons-Adjustable-Control-4Runner-Cruiser/dp/B07667QXNJ/ref=pd_sbs_263_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=0M749WPE2T7EEDBACT2S
 

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Stupid question but when installing a bolt through a poly bushing do you grease the bolt or just push it though the sleeve?Anti seize?


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I've heard people argue for and against it both ways. Some say that if the end isn't greasable by a grease nipple then don't grease it. The reasoning being that if you apply grease at install, over time it will collect particulate that will prematurely wear the bushing. While if it had a grease nipple, you could grease it from time to time and force out any contaminates with fresh grease. The other side, don't grease it, and you may seize it, or wear it out by friction anyway.

Basically, do whatever you want. I personally would anti-seize it.
 

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I've heard people argue for and against it both ways. Some say that if the end isn't greasable by a grease nipple then don't grease it. The reasoning being that if you apply grease at install, over time it will collect particulate that will prematurely wear the bushing. While if it had a grease nipple, you could grease it from time to time and force out any contaminates with fresh grease. The other side, don't grease it, and you may seize it, or wear it out by friction anyway.

Basically, do whatever you want. I personally would anti-seize it.


Thanks for the comments, yup I used anti-seize on the bolts.



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Thanks for the comments, yup I used anti-seize on the bolts.
Doesn't matter exactly. Maybe it'll reduce noise. But the bushings flex/rotate on the sleeve. So as long as the bushing to sleeve is greased, it should be fine. That's how it was with my Whiteline Panhard which look similar to the poly on your Dobinsons.
 

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Doesn't matter exactly. Maybe it'll reduce noise. But the bushings flex/rotate on the sleeve. So as long as the bushing to sleeve is greased, it should be fine. That's how it was with my Whiteline Panhard which look similar to the poly on your Dobinsons.
Thanks


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