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Mechanic recommendations in Oregon?

569 Views 26 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  Judge02914
Hey folks, so we survived the 3500m drive from New England to Reedsport,OR. Now setting up shop and one of the 1st needs on my list is to get myself a good mechanic. Can anyone recommend one in this area? Looking to start transforming my 2012 into a nice overland vehicle. Also I’d like an FJ experienced professional to give her a look over and see what the previous owners have done to her. I’m not experienced enough to notice everything. Did notice the guy did a messy job with the electrical when I got a radio installed…eesh. Based on that I’m concerned over other “surprises”.
She’s also starting to shudder when she’s around 25-35mph, any thoughts?
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I live not far from there in the Willamette Valley. I don't even know of any mechanics that I'd trust near me. I usually do most of my own work for that reason. You should read here and learn some of the most basic maintenance chores. This forum is a gold mine of information.

As for the shudder, how many miles on your rig? A transmission fluid drain and fill, or 2, may be needed since the shudder is a classic symptom of old ATF. But at high mileage, well over 100,000 miles, might complicate things. You may even find most shops will balk at either performing a full flush, or a couple of drain and fills (preferred if your FJ has a lot of miles). However, many here have done a couple of drain and fills on high mileage transmissions and have had good success solving the shudder and having no shifting issues.
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Do NOT go to Import Performance in Bend. They told me it was "too difficult" to replace my shifter bushing when doing my clutch. It was, in fact, a 30 second job when I did it myself. If they can't do that, i figured, they shouldn't be doing a 3k job.
I live not far from there in the Willamette Valley. I don't even know of any mechanics that I'd trust near me. I usually do most of my own work for that reason. You should read here and learn some of the most basic maintenance chores. This forum is a gold mine of information.

As for the shudder, how many miles on your rig? A transmission fluid drain and fill, or 2, may be needed since the shudder is a classic symptom of old ATF. But at high mileage, well over 100,000 miles, might complicate things. You may even find most shops will balk at either performing a full flush, or a couple of drain and fills (preferred if your FJ has a lot of miles). However, many here have done a couple of drain and fills on high mileage transmissions and have had good success solving the shudder and having no shifting issues.
Sadly I don’t have the resources for it myself and I’m not very experienced with auto work. Planning to change that. Take some auto classes, start small.
She’s got 105k miles on her. Sadly most of her history is a mystery to me. I think she has the original transmission so when I bought her I figured she was due. First thing I was hoping to do with a mechanic is ask if there’s been any after market stuff installed, cuz I can’t tell. Former owner seemed more focused on rims and the stereo. I plan to transition her into an overland rig…eventually.

so where do all these custom Toyotas go? Honestly there’s a buggy mechanic at every intersection but I haven’t seen a normal shop yet.
Do NOT go to Import Performance in Bend. They told me it was "too difficult" to replace my shifter bushing when doing my clutch. It was, in fact, a 30 second job when I did it myself. If they can't do that, i figured, they shouldn't be doing a 3k job.
Understood, thanks. Speaking of Bend, anyone going to that PNW overlanding get together?
Sadly I don’t have the resources for it myself and I’m not very experienced with auto work. Planning to change that. Take some auto classes, start small.
She’s got 105k miles on her. Sadly most of her history is a mystery to me. I think she has the original transmission so when I bought her I figured she was due. First thing I was hoping to do with a mechanic is ask if there’s been any after market stuff installed, cuz I can’t tell. Former owner seemed more focused on rims and the stereo. I plan to transition her into an overland rig…eventually.

so where do all these custom Toyotas go? Honestly there’s a buggy mechanic at every intersection but I haven’t seen a normal shop yet.
It's a sad state of affairs that most repair shops can't be trusted, even a lot of Toyota dealerships. But that's where I'd try first since I don't know any shops in Reedsport. There's a Coos Bay Toyota Dealership just south of you that's got good reviews, so try there. They know your vehicle's systems better than anyone else that's independent. I'd at least get the oil/filter changed and maybe even a couple of auto transmission drain and fills with some driving inbetween since your FJ is at that point where it should be changed and is now displaying shuddering issues. Not a full flush since all that new fluid will act like a solvent and remove any varnish on the clutch plates and potentially cause shifting issues. Maybe get all the drive line/spider zerk fittings greased and the air filter checked. Coolant should be replaced if you don't know how old it is. Ditto with the brake fluid (the most likely item to be not maintained or ever flushed). You can replace the cabin air filter yourself since it's easy to remove the glove box to get at it and yes, that thing fills up with dirt and bugs. Gross. Then start learning how to maintain your rig. A lot of good information can be had here if you have questions and accumulate the tools.
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It all starts with a 10mm wrench… you can do it! 👍
10mm? At least a 12 and 14mm socket wrench to change the oil. Plus a 21mm deep socket to take off the wheels. But you might as well buy whole sets of sockets and wrenches for everything else that needs to be worked on. Since I started as a mechanic working with SAE tools in the marine industry, owning several Japanese cars forced me to slowly stock up on metric tools.
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I was just speaking symbolically Kai 😉
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It's a sad state of affairs that most repair shops can't be trusted, even a lot of Toyota dealerships. But that's where I'd try first since I don't know any shops in Reedsport. There's a Coos Bay Toyota Dealership just south of you that's got good reviews, so try there. They know your vehicle's systems better than anyone else that's independent.
Yeah planning to swing by the Coos dealership this weekend or possibly Tuesday. They don’t do much customization work but they can handle the basics.
Stupid question: if the transmission possibly needs work or to be replaced, can it be replaced with something better? The way I plan to replace this suspension with something better once they act up?
If you said they did the tires/rims maybe the previous owner didn't balance a wheel that could cause a vibration.
Any tire shop could check that before the dealer tries to rob you.
If you said they did the tires/rims maybe the previous owner didn't balance a wheel that could cause a vibration.
Any tire shop could check that before the dealer tries to rob you.
Had them rotated day 2 because I noticed the spare on the back still had a sticker on the treads(meaning they’ve never touched road)so I rotated them all and tested the balance. Didn’t want a spare with dramatically more tread. Thanks tho for trying to help
Les Schwab used to be pretty good.
Yeah planning to swing by the Coos dealership this weekend or possibly Tuesday. They don’t do much customization work but they can handle the basics.
Stupid question: if the transmission possibly needs work or to be replaced, can it be replaced with something better? The way I plan to replace this suspension with something better once they act up?
Give a couple of drain and fills the chance to help the transmission. You may even want to try putting in some shudder stop as a last resort. Have patience. Many times fluid transfusions can solve the problem. Transmissions aren't cheap and even finding a reliable trans tech is hard. There are also remans, but I can't give you a comment on those since I've never had to replace a transmission. As for a new transmission, the one that came with the FJ is top notch and nearly bulletproof, as long as owners regularly service the fluid, which unfortunately seems to be the common cause of it's demise. Maybe others can comment on a rebuild or replacement.

As for the spare, have you looked at the date code to see if it's less than 10 years old? If it's been hanging on the back for years unused, the internal oils have not been allowed to work through the rubber via driving on it, so the outer part of the tire may start to crack and fail, especially on the sidewalls. Concerning Les Schwab, they were sold to a large company years ago, so it's now hit or miss on service quality. Some of my neighbor's have complained about crappy service at our local Schwab since the company changed hands and have gone to local independents. Look for reviews online for any local Schwab or other retailers before you go there in your area. Discount Tire is a sponsor here you may want to check out if there's one around the area to perform a tire balance on all 5 wheels. Here's my date code and yeah, all 5 tires need to be replaced due to age since they are still OEM tires, Feb. 2011. My summer project and yes, I've been rotating them, so they are all equally bad. If you look closely, there are spots of rubber now starting to spall off. And look, I still have the nibs. :whistle:

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@Kaiju thank you for the recognition! We appreciate your support, and yes if your tires are truly 12yrs old, its time. ;) @Judge02914 the closest location to you would be:

4026 W 11th Ave
Eugene, OR 97402

We would be happy to do a free inspection to see if your ride disturbance is in fact related to tires.
Right now, I'm waiting for our illustrious Congress to do their damn job, properly deal with the debt ceiling and not trash my meager net worth. Then I'll look into tires and TPMS sensors too. And thanks, I'll keep Discount Tire in mind when I shop. :cool:
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Update to post:
sad news folks. So keeping in mind that I JUST made my 2nd payment to the dealership TODAY. I pulled into Toyota in Coos Bay and asked for some advice. A nice experienced gentleman who I think was the Service Manager spent 30 minutes looking over my FJ and warning me of future expensive eventualities all trailing back to the nightmare that is New England road salt. I myself always new that future work would be pricy but as long as I spent wisely the vehicle and myself would benefit long term. I pulled in thinking AT WORST I might need a new transmission. Holy **** was I wrong.
Noticing rust last week as I unloaded my vehicle we too a glance at my rear Control arm for the slip. It had completely rotted off and was hanging midair grinding against the brake line.
This vehicle passed an inspection 7 weeks ago. There is no way the dealership didn’t know about this because they ran a new sensor wire on the thing.
I looked them dead in the eye and said” I am driving 3500 miles to Oregon immediately after purchasing this vehicle. If it needs any work I WILL PAY FOR IT for you to fix before I drive her off. Separate transaction.
They never said a peep.
So now I am on the look out for: OPTION A, a skilled vehicle frame welder to cut the rot and weld a piece on to attach to.
OPTION B: a new rear differential. From a junkyard or what not, but that’s a challenge all on itself cuz I don’t know what to look for.
Soo….yay.
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This was REALLY helpful. You answered all the questions I had about transmissions and some I didn’t think of. I’ll go get a quote for a gentle drain and fill and ask the mechanic nicely if he can go over her underside and point out anything he notices.
But regarding the wheels it’s my fault, I wasn’t clear. The kid(I’m choosing to call them a kid) put new wheels that say TRD on them and new tires prolly immediately before it A: was sold to the dealer or B: the dealer did it. 5 of them. So what I meant to say is the four on the ground had a couple thousand on them but #5 had never been rotated in. So I rotated them before the difference became too noticeable.
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Start reading the multiple posts on rust and get educated. This is a big decision. Sorry you are going through this.
Post pictures for everyone if you want good information and better thoughts on what to do about the rear diff. The rust issue may be your biggest problem going forward with your FJ unfortunately.
Post pictures for everyone if you want good information and better thoughts on what to do about the rear diff. The rust issue may be your biggest problem going forward with your FJ unfortunately.
The good news is I knew that and had committed to fighting it before the purchase. I wanted an FJ again and I knew that was part of the marriage. I still haven’t figured out how to post pics on here but when I do I have some
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