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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
It all started here as a special order: Voodoo Blue 6MT 4x4 with CQ and GY

After reading around here I had a good idea that I wanted steel wheels and a non-factory rack.



It took six months to get the special order completed as I wanted it just so. The following posts will be updated in the future to explain some of the issues I found whilst personalizing my vehicle.

This is what it looks like today:



Updated with PIAA lights. Just like everyone says they really cut the noise down. It was noticeable and annoying when driving above 45mph.

The AUX switch instructions here:
AUX light instructions

and the Gobi wiring instructions here:
Gobi Light install instructions

More to follow on:

Added: Hitch, Arm Rest, Rear Storage, HighPitch horn, AllPro sliders, DICE iPod, 2x12V outlet, Gobi Stealth, BB skids, Steering wheel control, AUX RCA inputs, WARN Rear Bumper, PIAA lights

Thinking on: 110V (300W pure sine wave), BB fuel tank (ordered), MaxAir 4.0 onboard air (ordered),
1-2yrs out: DR suspension, BFG tires
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Hitch install pictures:

It's really not that bad to install the hitch with one person, here is what it looks like under the plastic bumper facade:


And there are enough bolts to keep it in there:


The trickiest part is getting the electric module installed by the drivers footwell. I'll try and get a better picture of that as it was the hardest part of the install
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
I ended up buying a DVD player (SeVIC brand) that is held in a sleeve over the headrest rather than a replacement headrest solution. The main benefit being it can be moved to a rental car when on vacation:



For connecting a rear headrest DVD player, I decided to put a pair of phono (RCA) inputs and a 12v power outlet in the center console:





Then for the iPod (DICE connection) and power for the GPS system I put a couple of holes in the drivers side glove box. The main challenge here was removing enough of the dash plastic that surrounds the glovebox in order to get the 12 outlet in. A few minutes with the dremel sorted that out though.



I know I need to put a grommet around the ipod connection. I just got those delivered last week.

Finally because I got a basic model, but still wanted the steering wheel controls I installed the OEM switch using this post for inspiration:



It took several passes with the dremel to get the fit almost right. When I get some spare time I'll probably take it out again and just level it with a sanding block.

The keyless entry beep removal was made easy with this hint:
Remove keyless entry picture

After seeing the MaxAir 4.0 re-seating a bead and inflating 8 tires non-stop I decided to install one under the hood:



The hardest thing here was probably routing the thick power cables and mounting the compressor to the wheel well. The picture was taken halfway through the install, the power is mounted on the sidewall where the horn used to be... have to take an updated picture to show the full install

I'm still thinking about 110V out, but that will have to wait
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Skid installation was pretty straightforward using Bud's instructions the trolley jack was essential during positioning.









Still have to paint/install the crossmember and order the fuel skid when rev 2.0 comes out. Again all the metal work was covered with rustoleum spray paint.

After this happened this week:


The WARN bumper is very nicely engineered and is very solid:



The trickiest part is the plastic triming on the sides:



Closer look, this might need some alignment:



A rubber mallet helped in the install, mainly trying to get the frame mounts aligned. After installing the hitch this install was pretty straight forward as many of the steps were the same.

A second attempt on the bumper alignment was required. I wasn't happy with the line. So loosening all the bolts and then jacking the center up with the high-lift enabled the sides to be aligned and leveled prior to re-torquing them down with one of the supplied spaces. Here's how it looks now:



After crushing the OEM exhaust an All Pro high clearance exhaust was installed.

Liquid wrench had to be used to loosen the exhaust bolts, and a custom strap made as the All Pro mount does not work with the WARN bumper:



It does sound a little deeper, perhaps some sound dampener is needed. A project for next summer, SecondSkin perhaps...
 

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Very nicely done. I sure like the black wheels with the VB. I also like the Bud Builts. Good job, Great look.:bigthumb:

UB
 

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What UncleBuck said. Really like the skids too.
 

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Very nice... 2 questions:
- (noob q), can the sliders be also used as a step to get into the truck? Not sure what you meant by "enough rooom for others to get in and out".
- is that and OEM hitch or an after-market one? Does it just bolt in or is drilling required? And finally, what size/class is the hitch?

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
There is plenty of room to step on the slider. It's nice that the rear section flares out as it makes it easier for the rear passengers. I suppose the "others" reference was for my 18 month old son :)

That hitch is an OEM hitch and bolts on with 6 bolts, very easy job to put on. Class III (5000lbs)

I used these:
Install instructions
 

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I like the black rims, now you need some MT's.
 

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love the warn bumper man
 

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i recntly purchased the rocktek bumper. you can get it for similar price on trdparts4u.com

awesome quality bumper from what i can see so far
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Not much has changed in the last 12 years apart from more maintenance issues are coming up, so time to revisit this thread.

One addition I've made is to add a bluetooth reciever: TUNAI firefly pluged into the 12V outlet which has a USB-C charger. The bluetooth reciever has enough cord to reach the AUX in for the standard radio. This is nice for streaming podcasts from my phone into the FJ radio.

After 12 years the AllPro sliders were looking a little rough with chips and rust spots. Over the holidays sanded down all the rust spots and re-primed/painted with Rustoleum bare metal primer and then Rustoleum Enamel top coat. Almost the same process as when originally painted.

1119591


The most recent comparison was this June's tire rotation:
1119592


12 years is not bad for rattle can finish.

The rear diff needs some work after working out the pinion bearing has some play, discussed here. I've ordered a replacement from ECGS. To replace the third the rear locker must be engaged. Unfortunately the transfer case switches were dead and not responding to shifting the transfer case. Locked center and Low Locked were working, it just wasn't communicating that change to the ECU. This week replaced the switches as discussed here. There's not much space to work:

1119593


An afternoon of work was enough to figure it out.

Now waiting on the new third to be delivered in the next couple of weeks...
 
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