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Discussion Starter #1
A minor error involving going off-road for kayaking caused this dent. As it's not covered by insurance, what should be my steps for fixing the issue? Is it something that I could do myself?

The damage isn't really that bad I think. What is plastic part labeled "3". The metal piece "1" is not dented at all, but is pushed back a little which caused "2" the door to rub against it. The door can still open, but rubs against the paint.

So how much would it cost to replace "3" in parts? Where could I get the part? If I wanted it installed, any idea how long or what the labor would be?

Any help would be appreciated, thanks.

:boohoo:
 

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I like the little mad face... :no:

If it is pushed to the point that the door is rubbing and body lines are out, it is not likely something you can do yourself. Atleast I couldn't do it, and I consider myself a decent garage mechanic.

What kind of force (and from where) was involved in this? Did you sit the truck on that point?
 

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I like the little mad face... :no:

If it is pushed to the point that the door is rubbing and body lines are out, it is not likely something you can do yourself. Atleast I couldn't do it, and I consider myself a decent garage mechanic.

What kind of force (and from where) was involved in this? Did you sit the truck on that point?
Yes, the truck was sitting on that point. So I should take it to a bodyshop?
 

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After you get it fixed, rip those running boards that are mounted to the body off and get some rock sliders that will prevent such an incident from happening again. I would certainly avoid opening that suicide door if at all possible (duh, right?). Hopefully a good body man can take care of it rather cheaply.
 

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You have just adequately demonstrated the value of ROCK SLIDERS over "step sides".

If you want it perfect, take it to a perfectionist and pay them their worth.

If you want it adequate, then see if you can yank on that piece of sheet metal with a body working suction cup, or get behind it from inside the wheel well and pry it back enough to get it out of the way of the door. If you want to experiment with either the glue-on or drill-in body metal pullers, that's fine, but then you'll likely be patching a small hole in the paint with some touch up... again... which is fine.

Then, get rock sliders.

Even the OEM versions would have saved you, and they don't stick out at all. If you're carrying kayaks, though, you'll be happier with a set that stick out enough that you can actually step up on them to lash boats to your rack.

The FJC is pre-drilled and threaded for bolt-in sliders, which is phenomenal. All the different designs out there stab into the same holes.
 

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and another thing...

I would straighten the metal to where it doesn't touch the door, and forget about the plastic (which will look better when the metal is supporting it again). Then I'd get the rock sliders, which hug close enough to the rocker panel that this area is no longer your focus.

You've gotten over the initial pain of damaging a 4x4. You're free now to stop worrying about it being perfect, so that you can drive it better.

If you make it perfect again, the anxiety will return.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
and another thing...

I would straighten the metal to where it doesn't touch the door, and forget about the plastic (which will look better when the metal is supporting it again). Then I'd get the rock sliders, which hug close enough to the rocker panel that this area is no longer your focus.

You've gotten over the initial pain of damaging a 4x4. You're free now to stop worrying about it being perfect, so that you can drive it better.

If you make it perfect again, the anxiety will return.
I like your thinking there. Alright. I will do some research on rock sliders, but first I need to get the door in operating condition.
 

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Inside the wheel well, right at that point, it's actually hollow behind that body panel. You can reach around inside the plastic fender flare and get your hand into it. Mine collects tons of rocks in that space.

If you want to make a big deal out of it, you could undo the plastic fender flare, fix the metal, and then put the plastic back on. You might just be able to work around the plastic if you want to.

The fender flare is held on by screws. There may be one or two snap in connectors made of plastic. I forget if there are, and I'm not near my FJ to check. If there are, they look like big buttons, and the center portion pries out before the whole thing pops out.

Either way, you can reach in there with a pry bar and move it outward. You might also want to grab from the inside with a pair of channel locks and pull it backward.

 

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Discussion Starter #12
Inside the wheel well, right at that point, it's actually hollow behind that body panel. You can reach around inside the plastic fender flare and get your hand into it. Mine collects tons of rocks in that space.

If you want to make a big deal out of it, you could undo the plastic fender flare, fix the metal, and then put the plastic back on. You might just be able to work around the plastic if you want to.

The fender flare is held on by screws. There may be one or two snap in connectors made of plastic. I forget if there are, and I'm not near my FJ to check. If there are, they look like big buttons, and the center portion pries out before the whole thing pops out.

Either way, you can reach in there with a pry bar and move it outward. You might also want to grab from the inside with a pair of channel locks and pull it backward.
Put my hand back there, there is room. I'll try to pry it out.

Will update! Thanks for the help! :clap:
 
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