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2011 FJ - Iceberg White
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Discussion Starter #1
Hey everybody, I've read through quite a few posts about convex mirror glass for the left outer mirror. Obviously here in the U.S. the glass is normally flat. I'm trying to get my hands on some OEM glass from a country with the right hand drive. I believe in those countries the passenger glass is convex like it is here, but I've failed to find confirmation.

Before you all tell me that I just need to adjust my mirrors better... I have angled them out so I can barely see the door handle with my head back against the seat. I've mostly gotten used to it and haven't had too many issues, but I would still like a wider viewing angle and really dislike the stick-on solutions.

So, I have contacted some Australian dealerships and it looks like they will send me the glass for a little under $100 after shipping costs. The part # they provided is 8796135A00. Can anyone confirm this is the correct part? Has anyone gone this route before? If so, how did it work out for you? Are there stateside sources I'm overlooking?

Thanks in advance.

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You are definitely on the right track, I fitted JPN glass to my FJ right after purchasing it and have loved them. Here are two threads on it:



(ignore the talk in those threads about cheap, aftermarket, "one size fits all" parts, and focus on the "how to" parts and the JDM part numbers:
87931-35B40 Right
87961-35B10 Left

Simple google the part number and vendors will pop up eager to sell them to you, via overseas post (just like buying locally, and sometimes takes no longer to get here).

Perhaps the AUS part number you have is for the non-heated glass. I went for heated because it is such a boon driving in winter.

Before taking off the original glass, look at how the clips are shaped on the new ones, and use that as a guide for how to pull and rotate to remove.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Norm,
Thank you for the reply. You may have convinced me that I need heated glass now, making this project more complex, but I'm up for the challenge. Can you confirm the left hand glass is convex?

Ultimately I want both mirrors to be convex and heated. I'm not sure if I can do that with OEM parts because I haven't seen any mention of heated mirrors available for left hand drive countries.

It's interesting that neither the Japanese or Australian versions actually say they are heated, but the price of both would suggest they are.

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I’m sure our Oz guru @bazross will confirm the parts for you. Many of us went the route of the EZView kit

 

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Norm,
Thank you for the reply. You may have convinced me that I need heated glass now, making this project more complex, but I'm up for the challenge. Can you confirm the left hand glass is convex?

Ultimately I want both mirrors to be convex and heated. I'm not sure if I can do that with OEM parts because I haven't seen any mention of heated mirrors available for left hand drive countries.

It's interesting that neither the Japanese or Australian versions actually say they are heated, but the price of both would suggest they are.

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G'Day,
Our mirrors are not heated, thats a definite .... I can check part number for you if you wish ... but not being heated ..perhaps that negates the need for mirrors from DU
Cheers
Baz
 

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Hey everybody,

So, I have contacted some Australian dealerships and it looks like they will send me the glass for a little under $100 after shipping costs. The part # they provided is 8796135A00. Can anyone confirm this is the correct part? Has anyone gone this route before? If so, how did it work out for you? Are there stateside sources I'm overlooking?

Thanks in advance.

Sent from my S3_Pro using Tapatalk
That is the correct part number for a LH Aussie mirror ..
Cheers
Baz
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I’m sure our Oz guru @bazross will confirm the parts for you. Many of us went the route of the EZView kit

Yeah I've heard good reviews. Their site says they are out of stock, which actually just helps me make a decision.


G'Day,
Our mirrors are not heated, thats a definite .... I can check part number for you if you wish ... but not being heated ..perhaps that negates the need for mirrors from DU
Cheers
Baz
Thank you for the reply. Originally I had not even thought about heated, but now that I started thinking about it I've decided it's something I would want. I don't think I've owned a vehicle without them actually.

I guess I'll be ordering the Japanese ones since they have everything I'm looking for.

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2013 Trail Teams #181/2500<>< <*((^(((><
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Some thing else that I’ve tried is...
before changing lanes I speed up or slow down, It keeps people from camping out in my blind spot. Good luck!

<>< <>< <>< <*((^(((><
 

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Flouromonkey, in answer to your question: yes, I can confirm that these JPN part numbers are both convex, and heated.


The challenge to adding heated mirrors is adding the wiring to power them, but the second thread I'd linked above includes my notes on doing it, along with some very clear photos from another who'd also done it.

Ideally, one would run a dedicated power supply from the battery, with its own relay and on/off switch.
I measured the total current draw of the existing back window defroster, and of the mirror heaters and concluded the factory 30A fuse (and wire gauge and relay) were all capable of handling it, so I simply tapped into the Yellow/Green back window wire, so they all go on and off together.

Norm
 

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@norm356 Where does one find this ylw/grn window wire or are you gonna make me read all those threads? :ROFLMAO:

Thanks for all the info CHEERS I'm thinking it's my summer project along w/ some rust prevention. ;) Now if they would just open the media blaster, powder coater and tint shop. (y)
 

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Anyone out there that can provide contact info for a reliable supplier for the JDM mirrors? I'd prefer to order both mirrors from the same vendor.
 

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Got both of them on ebay from this vendor
automotomarinestore
 

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Unfortunately, using eBay's 'advance search' function to search by seller's name, I can't seem to locate any vendor named "automotomarinestore".

Can you provide a direct link to a current auction by this seller?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Flouromonkey, in answer to your question: yes, I can confirm that these JPN part numbers are both convex, and heated.


The challenge to adding heated mirrors is adding the wiring to power them, but the second thread I'd linked above includes my notes on doing it, along with some very clear photos from another who'd also done it.

Ideally, one would run a dedicated power supply from the battery, with its own relay and on/off switch.
I measured the total current draw of the existing back window defroster, and of the mirror heaters and concluded the factory 30A fuse (and wire gauge and relay) were all capable of handling it, so I simply tapped into the Yellow/Green back window wire, so they all go on and off together.

Norm
Thank you, and I prefer your approach vs installing a dedicated switch. I think another idea would be to install a 15min time delay relay triggered from the defrost switch.

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Discussion Starter #16

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Discussion Starter #17
Well, mine are on the way. I ended up buying them from megazip.net (MegaZip - Genuine OEM Parts From Japan, USA, UAE | Online Store. They took PayPal, so I figure I have an extra line of dispute if there are any issues. They should be here end of the month. I will admit I found cheaper options, but the shipping options led me to megazip. They have a 10% of code on the site right now, and they give you $5 off your shipping if you spend over $30.


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I've used Megazip and Amayama, and a few others, over the years. All worked great, sometimes shipping is slow, and sometimes freaky fast.

"Where does one find this ylw/grn window wire?" - it is in the left rocker, it goes to the back door along that way. You can tap into it up in the A-pillar area near the main fuse box but is kind of crowded up there. The rocker, under the scuff plate, right near the base of the A-pillar was easier to get to. There is a handy ground screw at the bottom of the A pillar, too. Don't forget to "T" the power supply and the ground wires to also run the wires to the other side mirror.

I found it was pretty easy to run the new wires through the door wire harness grommet. One clever trick is to feed the pointed end of a long zip tie through it one way, tape on the wires to that and pull them back through, using the long zip tie like a snake.

For wire, this is going to sound pretty janky, but I just used ordinary 18ga lamp cord: it is the right gauge, it is designed for flexing, and the first vehicle I did this to, after 25 years and 200,000 miles the cord's insulation had only just begun to crack (along with all of the rest of the wires in the door wire harness that ran through the same grommet). Based on that one test sample, I'm comfortable doing it that way for my other Toyotas (done 3 now).

For extra credit, you can add a heat shrink over the new wires where they will be flexed inside of the grommet. That extra layer may help to spread out the flex load, and may help slow the PVC deterioration over the coming decades, to prevent the same crack door wires usually do get after a lifetime of use.

For super, extra credit (teacher's pet level), you can add simple 2 pin connectors in this new wire, at each door. That way, if you ever have to remove the whole door someday in the future (you know, because), you can disconnect it there, like the rest of the door harness.

Norm "sparky" Kerr
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Probably overkill, but I've got a bunch of 12 gauge TXL (thin wall cross-linked insulation) that I will probably use unless my backorder of 16 G gets here some day. I'll add a connector as that should be pretty easy and is good forward-thinking. That's the kind of stuff I love these forums for, never would have considered it.
 

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I've used Megazip and Amayama, and a few others, over the years. All worked great, sometimes shipping is slow, and sometimes freaky fast.

"Where does one find this ylw/grn window wire?" - it is in the left rocker, it goes to the back door along that way. You can tap into it up in the A-pillar area near the main fuse box but is kind of crowded up there. The rocker, under the scuff plate, right near the base of the A-pillar was easier to get to. There is a handy ground screw at the bottom of the A pillar, too. Don't forget to "T" the power supply and the ground wires to also run the wires to the other side mirror.

I found it was pretty easy to run the new wires through the door wire harness grommet. One clever trick is to feed the pointed end of a long zip tie through it one way, tape on the wires to that and pull them back through, using the long zip tie like a snake.

For wire, this is going to sound pretty janky, but I just used ordinary 18ga lamp cord: it is the right gauge, it is designed for flexing, and the first vehicle I did this to, after 25 years and 200,000 miles the cord's insulation had only just begun to crack (along with all of the rest of the wires in the door wire harness that ran through the same grommet). Based on that one test sample, I'm comfortable doing it that way for my other Toyotas (done 3 now).

For extra credit, you can add a heat shrink over the new wires where they will be flexed inside of the grommet. That extra layer may help to spread out the flex load, and may help slow the PVC deterioration over the coming decades, to prevent the same crack door wires usually do get after a lifetime of use.

For super, extra credit (teacher's pet level), you can add simple 2 pin connectors in this new wire, at each door. That way, if you ever have to remove the whole door someday in the future (you know, because), you can disconnect it there, like the rest of the door harness.

Norm "sparky" Kerr
"... I just used ordinary 18ga lamp cord: it is the right gauge, it is designed for flexing, and the first vehicle I did this to, after 25 years and 200,000 miles the cord's insulation had only just begun to crack ..."

I gotta say, in my opinion, lamp cord is not recommended for automotive wiring or any other critical application. Lamp cord is typically the lowest end of the insulated wire quality spectrum, low-temperature rated PVC. It is not actually designed or rated for high flex cycle life, is not ozone, solvent or oil resistant, quickly becomes brittle with exposure to moderate temperature, ozone, sunlight etc., etc.

There are so many far more suitable options available at reasonable cost. I use surplus MIL-spec aircraft/aerospace wire, readily available from multiple sources. You may not find the exact color you want, or the exact gauge, but you can always use the next-largest gauge, and it's just about the highest quality wire you can get. Skycraft Surplus in Florida is one source (skycraftsurplus.com), Apex surplus (apexsurplus.com) in Sun Valley, California is another.
 
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