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My front lower control arms (155,000 miles) were getting really squeaky and I was starting to get a snap, crackle ,pop from the ball joints when backing up and turning or any kid of flexing so it was time for replacements.

Couldn't get myself to spend 1600 on TC ones when stock ones did their job for 100,000 since I got it lifted it and been giving it hell since.

I picked MOOG after some research and deciding they make quality products and the price was right compared to OEM and felt like they were a way better option than the really budget ones out there.

I couldn't find any threads on here on aftermarket front LCA(non TC) that didn't leave the readers hanging as to the quality and results of their purchase so I am posting this if anyone has any questions

Planning on keeping people update on long term opinions on these. Install was easy (removing old ones was not) and everything is quiet and goodantite :wink

Uses Specialty Products Cam Bolt Kit $42.99 P/N 25435 per side for new alignment hardware.

(Pro Comp 3" lift has done its job and held up to abuse with a heavy bumper/winch and 33 A/T's for 100,000)
 

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I'll have to look through my purchase history but I think I used MOOG when they were swapped around 100K. Positive they were from rockauto but I skipped the bolt kit. 120k now and no issues yet.
 

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Looks nice! Do the Moog ball joints have zerks for grease, or are they sealed like the factory ones?
Moog have zerks. I just bought new Moog upper and lower ball joints for my FJ. I just need to find the time, and ball joint press to do the job.
 

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Moog have zerks. I just bought new Moog upper and lower ball joints for my FJ. I just need to find the time, and ball joint press to do the job.
Good deal, same experience with Moog sway bar endlinks and tie rod ends on my wife's vehicle. A little extra work at oil changes, but keep them greased and they'll usually outlast the rest of the vehicle.

I also put little plastic caps on my non-driveshaft zerks, really saves problems with seized checkballs.

https://www.amazon.com/Hotchkis-1791-Black-Zerk-Pack/dp/B003US6X64/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1506429133&sr=1-2&keywords=zerk+fitting+caps
 

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Nice thread! Hopefully you can keep us updated as time goes on as to their longevity and how they hold up. Looking at getting these same Moog LCAs since my current LCAs have 113K miles on them and are doing what you explained; popping, squeaking, etc. Makes me nervous and I definitely do not feel confident taking it off-road! Need to get them done sooner than later!
 

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Well I just installed my new Moog LCAs. I will just make a couple of suggestions to ensure your experience installing Moog LCAs is as smooth, if not smoother, than mine.


1. When removing the factory cam bolts (the ones that are used for aligning your vehicle), if yours aren't seized (which THANK GOODNESS mine weren't) be sure with the front cam bolt setup to pull the metal sleeve out towards the front of the vehicle. Wrestled with mine for 30 minutes and couldn't understand why it wasn't pushing out the back but then when we pushed it through the front it popped right out. We were then able to so the other side in 10 seconds knowing the cam bolt sleeve come out through the front. :lol:

2. Use anti-seize! After hearing time and time and time again how people have terrible experiences with items seizing, I made sure that when I did get my cam bolts out, after cleaning them off a little with an abrasive (not the threads though) I lathered the inside sleeve of the LCA bushings and the outside of the cam bolt sleeves with the anti-seize. They will not be seizing any time soon!

3. You may not find it initially (like what happened to me) but in the packaging for your new Moog lower control arms there is a tiny little bag with a new cotter pin for securing the LCA ball joint castle nut as well as a zerk fitting/grease nipple that you will have to attach to the top of the ball joint so then you can inject grease into the lower ball joint to ensure that part's longevity. I found those pieces after the fact and getting the zerk on there after the LCA is installed is a pain.

4. Just make sure you get a wheel alignment right away. Luckily the place I had my alignment done at was like 2 minutes away from where we installed the LCAs. It is sketchy business driving around with an alignment that is WAY off.











 

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Well I just installed my new Moog LCAs. I will just make a couple of suggestions to ensure your experience installing Moog LCAs is as smooth, if not smoother, than mine.


1. When removing the factory cam bolts (the ones that are used for aligning your vehicle), if yours aren't seized (which THANK GOODNESS mine weren't) be sure with the front cam bolt setup to pull the metal sleeve out towards the front of the vehicle. Wrestled with mine for 30 minutes and couldn't understand why it wasn't pushing out the back but then when we pushed it through the front it popped right out. We were then able to so the other side in 10 seconds knowing the cam bolt sleeve come out through the front. :lol:

2. Use anti-seize! After hearing time and time and time again how people have terrible experiences with items seizing, I made sure that when I did get my cam bolts out, after cleaning them off a little with an abrasive (not the threads though) I lathered the inside sleeve of the LCA bushings and the outside of the cam bolt sleeves with the anti-seize. They will not be seizing any time soon!

3. You may not find it initially (like what happened to me) but in the packaging for your new Moog lower control arms there is a tiny little bag with a new cotter pin for securing the LCA ball joint castle nut as well as a zerk fitting/grease nipple that you will have to attach to the top of the ball joint so then you can inject grease into the lower ball joint to ensure that part's longevity. I found those pieces after the fact and getting the zerk on there after the LCA is installed is a pain.

4. Just make sure you get a wheel alignment right away. Luckily the place I had my alignment done at was like 2 minutes away from where we installed the LCAs. It is sketchy business driving around with an alignment that is WAY off.













Nice looking ride! Great info that’ll save some time.


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Discussion Starter #11
I am now at 167,000 and after 12,000 miles I have zero complaints. MOOG LCA's are holding up good through a lot of washboard/fire roads and the like. Road handling feels tighter I guess it was getting kind of sloppy with worn bushing and ball joints!
 

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Hey EdLopez, How have these MOOG LCA's held up? I am deciding whether to get new ones or not and the MOOG LCA's are definitely on my radar. The dealer wants $420 EACH. :(
 

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Interested as well, my steering is just a little sloppy on the interstate an these LCA bushings are the last remaining culprit


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I'm really thinking of getting new bushings from Toyota (PN: 480654-60050, I think) and pressing them in. I was reading in another thread that this can be done.

I spoke to the dealer today and there are no ball joint replacements from Toyota but I figure the aftermarket ones from MOOG are decent as well. Still TBD but I am starting to lean towards that plan as of right now.
 

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About pressing in Moogs on the lower, make sure they’re (well the grease fitting) at a 45 inward not at a 90. Had my first set pressed in at a great shop I like, got em home, and the grease fitting was so close to the CV assy that I couldn’t get a grease nipple on it or install a 90 degree fitting. Dumb. Had to take the whole thing apart to grease it.

I did Energy Suspension bushings on the inners and have been real happy with those too. About ready to reset after about 60K on the reworked LCA.
1138147
 
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