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Discussion Starter #1
Last night I had a chance to install the aFe intake. In case you don’t know, my truck is the 6MT version and pretty loaded with a pretty big sub box in the back, rack, running boards and some other gear. A forum member IronRanger was kind enough to assist. I had previously done baseline performance measurements before the install. Just to be on the safe side I re-ran the measurements with IR along with me in the truck.

We then swapped out the intakes and went out for more test runs. I used a GTech Pro RR which I have found to be pretty accurate. The install went pretty smoothly but the instructions could use some help. I did have one issue after installing the intake and starting the truck I had a CEL illuminated and a host of other lights indicating my ABS had shut down, the ESP was disabled and in general it looked like there was a Christmas tree in my instrument cluster.

We drove around gently for a few minutes but they didn’t clear up. I cycled the key a few times with no luck. We finally decided to pull his MAF and see if mine had failed. I stopped the truck in front of the garage. I then opened the garage and was starting to pull in to rip everything apart and like magic all the lights were gone. Maybe it just took a bunch of key cycles to clear it but we were super careful installing everything and I triple checked all connections before leaving the garage in the first time. We didn’t hurry even though it wasn’t exactly warm outside as it was at freezing temps.

First some observations from my last test. My current tank of fuel was NOT high octane. Last time I filled up the truck they 92 octane test was out of order. This is sort of a good news/bad news situation and I’ll explain why in a few minutes. I had recently filled up the truck when it was about 3/8’s of a tank so it had some 92 octane left so blended it was probably about 88-89.

Here is the interesting part. The weather compared to the last time I tested was about 6 degrees warmer which hurts power output a bit. What is interesting is that my baseline numbers with an extra person (IR) and a bag of salt in the back were very close to what I ran before even WITH the lower octane fuel. I didn’t hear any detonation either. So compared to last time I ran the truck with high octane and now with the low octane, my acceleration runs where slightly slower ONLY to the extent I would expect the extra 240 pounds or so would affect the truck! Put another way, taking out the extra weight of this run, there seemed to be no difference in my acceleration times due to the lower octane fuel AND my measured results were within 1HP and 1 lb/ft TQ of my previous runs.

We made several runs from a standing start and runs were there was a full pull through second gear starting at about 1700RPM. In EVERY run between the baseline and the aFe, the aFe made measurably more power. Even taking the BEST non-aFe run vs. the WORST aFe run, the was still about over a 5HP and 7lb/ft TQ improvemen! Average vs. average resulted in a 7HP and 9 lb/ft TQ improvement with the aFe intake. I am still crunching numbers to find more useful information but since I have a full time job I can only devote so much time to this.

I also noticed that to ultimately optimize my 0-60 times I will not want to pull to redline and it might be better to shift a bit sooner. I’m going to plot my TQ numbers in a spreadsheet and factor in the gear ratios to see what is best. I can’t quite make it to 60mph in second gear so that kills my times.

Subjectively there is not much difference in intake noise below 4,000. Above that it is LOUD! I can live with it as I can control it and I am not going to be cruising on the highway at 4,000 RPM very often.

So is life all peaches and cream? Not exactly. The AUX port is definitely letting in hot (or warm) air diluting the CAI aspect of the intake. I am either going to close this port up or duct it to where it won’t ingest water or mud but at least get colder air than that coming off the engine. Compared to the stock intake, it is about 8-10F degrees warmer. I don’t know if I will give up any performance to close it up but that is just a test away.

Sadly it had no effect on my cursed RPM hang. It is still there and ruins the truck. At least another forum member got to see what a PITA it is and how it kills a lot of fun of the truck. I am sure he can attest to the fact that I didn’t exaggerate in any of my posts to the extent of the problem.

Additionally my peak HP and TQ RPM’s moved up the curve about 250RPM or so. I didn’t lose any below that (in general increased from about 2800RPM up) but it keeps pulling a bit longer and harder than before. The throttle response is slightly crisper but it isn’t huge but it is noticeable. The truck is really begging for an exhaust now to see if I can multiply the gains.
So is it worth it? I’d say he!! yes considering my group buy purchase with FJoel. Those of you who didn’t jump on this one really missed out for a nice intake at a smokin’ price. Props to FJoel for helping set this up! As time permits I’ll analyze the date in more depth. The other forum member who assisted is part of the second GB so I’ll give him a hand with his and maybe we can do before and after testing on an 5AT FJ.

I'll report on mileage if it has any effect but i am not holding my breath.
 

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Thanks for doing this TAZ. I love this kinda stuff.

I'm think I'll stick to stock for about a year to see how I use my FJ and if I can really benefit from this mod.

I took the same approach with my V-Rod, and what I wanted to mod in month 1 was way different than month 12.

Eddie
 

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Discussion Starter #5
You are all welcome.

Nor were any butt dynos harmed in my testing. Many gallons of fossil fuel were sacrificed for the benefit of all on this board considering a aFe CAI.

My results are repeatable and independently verified and I am an unbiased source. I received no compensation or renumeration for my work nor am I an agent of any company in the automotive or related fields. I tried to perform tests that would minimize driver effects and focus solely on the products ability since I didn't have access to a dyno.

How's that for a disclaimer?
 

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Interesting stuff Taz. I wonder how the TRD would compare and whether your results would change if you did plug that extra little intake.
 

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thanks taz, nice to know how it went.
 

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The other forum member who assisted is part of the second GB so I’ll give him a hand with his and maybe we can do before and after testing on an 5AT FJ.
That would be great if you can do a before & after test on a 5AT FJ. Thx for doing these tests. :) Quick question not that I would be racing anybody but just out of curiosity...which is faster stock for stock...4x4 6-speed manual or 4x2 5AT (240 pounds lighter)? Thx!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I have no doubt that 0-60 the 5AT is quicker because I can't hit 60 in 2nd gear but the 5AT can. I have driven a lot of 5ATs and they definitely feel quicker to 60 but above that the 6MTs own the 5ATs due to the closer ratios of the gears. The difference is really obvious at speeds between 60-90. You are solidly in the range of 3rd gear on the 6MT. On the 5AT you have pretty much revved out 2nd and 3rd is good to almost 100. In the 90-100mph range it is back to the 5AT (in 3rd gear) but over 100 to the speed limiter the 6MT will just smack down the 5AT with no trouble at all. The 4th gear on the 5AT is good to 140 if it had the HP and no speed limiter so it is pretty tall whereas 4th on the 6MT is good to about 111mph.

I do plan to try and test the 5AT before and after if IronRanger doesn't mind. I also plan to test blocking the AUX port with a little cover and doing some other mods I have in mind to help with performance and reduce the noise for more stealth running WITHOUT hurting the performance (hopefully).
 

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I have no doubt that 0-60 the 5AT is quicker because I can't hit 60 in 2nd gear but the 5AT can. I have driven a lot of 5ATs and they definitely feel quicker to 60 but above that the 6MTs own the 5ATs due to the closer ratios of the gears. The difference is really obvious at speeds between 60-90. You are solidly in the range of 3rd gear on the 6MT. On the 5AT you have pretty much revved out 2nd and 3rd is good to almost 100. In the 90-100mph range it is back to the 5AT (in 3rd gear) but over 100 to the speed limiter the 6MT will just smack down the 5AT with no trouble at all. The 4th gear on the 5AT is good to 140 if it had the HP and no speed limiter so it is pretty tall whereas 4th on the 6MT is good to about 111mph.

I do plan to try and test the 5AT before and after if IronRanger doesn't mind. I also plan to test blocking the AUX port with a little cover and doing some other mods I have in mind to help with performance and reduce the noise for more stealth running WITHOUT hurting the performance (hopefully).
Wow, you really do know this vehicle inside/out don't cha?!? Thx for the informative info.

What AUX port are you talking about? Is it that extra hole the TRD cai doesn't have? If so, I read somewhere on here an aFe engineer said due to that hole, it flows better than the TRD version. Did I read that wrong?
 

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Wow, you really do know this vehicle inside/out don't cha?!? Thx for the informative info.

What AUX port are you talking about? Is it that extra hole the TRD cai doesn't have? If so, I read somewhere on here an aFe engineer said due to that hole, it flows better than the TRD version. Did I read that wrong?
I am sure that it flows better, and that post your referring to is mine as that is what I was told when forwarding group buy questions to them.

However, colder air is more dense and therefore has more oxygen/volume. Therefore colder air will produce more power, so Taz is going to test to see if the colder air (blocked aux port) produces more power than the additional air flow will. I really want to know too. Perhaps aFe had to add that port because the TRD one doesn't. Toyota likely said they had to have a different mold if they wanted to sell them bearing the aFe name. Just my guess...

If the aFe and TRD ones came from an identical mold you'd be an idiot to buy the TRD one as you'd only be paying for a name. Still, many guys would because TRD products are "less" frowned upon when it comes to warranty time. :) Again, just my opinion.
 

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I am sure that it flows better, and that post your referring to is mine as that is what I was told when forwarding group buy questions to them.

However, colder air is more dense and therefore has more oxygen/volume. Therefore colder air will produce more power, so Taz is going to test to see if the colder air (blocked aux port) produces more power than the additional air flow will. I really want to know too. Perhaps aFe had to add that port because the TRD one doesn't. Toyota likely said they had to have a different mold if they wanted to sell them bearing the aFe name. Just my guess...

If the aFe and TRD ones came from an identical mold you'd be an idiot to buy the TRD one as you'd only be paying for a name. Still, many guys would because TRD products are "less" frowned upon when it comes to warranty time. :) Again, just my opinion.
Warranty? What warranty? Just kidding! :D

Did you get my pm an hour or so ago regarding the pre-filter Joel? Thx again!
 

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Taz, did u pull the batt. cable for the install? (now that christmas tree in the dash is making me nervous)
and I'm guessing u have the stock non trd exhaust??
 

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Discussion Starter #15
No, didn't pull the battery cable. I was really concerned at first. With the key off there is nothing that should have been hot and I didn't see any OBDII codes thrown on the truck. I think it was just a freak thing as it hasn't occured since then.

FYI- my mileage on that tank (100 miles before install and 60 after) including testing tied my worst ever of 13mpg! Running this thing hard sucks down some fuel. I'll be tracking this tank carefully as it is with the filter installed. I am not betting it will increase at all.
 

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I have had my AfE intake for one and a half tanks and I have had stellar gas mileage. I was averaging 16.7 per tank without the intake and my last fillup was 18.6. I used the scangauge II for this and it is calibrated for my tires (see sig line). As for the this tank of gas I am currently getting 19.6 at half a tank with normal driving, at 3/4 full I was getting 20.0. This is daily driving. I will keep an eye on it, but I'm very happy with just the perf. gain, this is just icing on the cake. I run only 91 octane. I also had no probs with the install and no codes thrown. I didn't disconnect the battery either.
 

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No, didn't pull the battery cable. I was really concerned at first. With the key off there is nothing that should have been hot and I didn't see any OBDII codes thrown on the truck. I think it was just a freak thing as it hasn't occured since then.

FYI- my mileage on that tank (100 miles before install and 60 after) including testing tied my worst ever of 13mpg! Running this thing hard sucks down some fuel. I'll be tracking this tank carefully as it is with the filter installed. I am not betting it will increase at all.
I think it was a freak thing. I installed mine with no issues as you described. You are right about the fuel....If you have a heavy right foot milage will suffer.

Thanks for the tests, I can't wait to see the AT version.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Just an update. I had a chance to test again tonight. I filled up after the last few days with 92 octane and I've been running it. To keep my tests consistent as possible with those of 3 weeks ago, I topped off my tank again with 92 octane. This was with my original baseline tests well before I got the CAI and it was colder.

Tonights runs with the CAI showed that I am getting about 8-9 HP consistently more than those runs on a cooler night (14-16F cooler). TQ is up about 12-13lb/ft over then as well and up about 2HP/2TQ over my immediate tests after swapping out the CAI. Today was warmer than then as well. There is no doubt the throttle response is "crisper". I also tracked my IAT temps as well. The hot air dilution wasn't as bad as I thought it might be on a warmer day.

On the factory intake, I was typically observing the intake temps at being about 4-6F warmer than outside. With the aFe today I was seing about 10-12F warmer at low speeds and about 6-9 when cruising on the highway. The one really big disadvantage was when stopped for a longer period of time at a light. The aFe heated up a lot more than did the stocker BUT it did cool off pretty quick. My temps were about 30F warmer than the outside air. I think this is the first time my motor has ever seen 70+F air.

It may be possible that the ECU is learning a bit for the flow of the aFe but under WOT, it won't be getting any feedback from the 02 sensor as it is on open loop mode so it is running on the pre-programmed Toyota specs rather than being adaptive. I am betting if I were to add a better exhaust to my aFe that it might be worth having a chip burned for the new setup to really take advantage of all the parts.

All in all I am enjoying it more each day. The price was smoking and the improvement is pretty obvious. I can keep it from being too loud by keeping my foot out of it. When you punch it though at high RPMs people will turn and look at the truck.
 

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So you can use a scangauage II to calibrate for the bigger tire size diameter?
Yes, its in the directions when you setup your vehicle. I checked mine with a gps so its pretty good.
 
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