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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Reposting due to broken links
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07/28/08 Update 1
Originally I was going to use all the original equipment out of my previous car. I was going to use an ADS PQ20 and RF Punch 100. I only had two options for mounting locations that would not require a large amount of time while staying stealthy, under the seats or a false floor in the back. I first looked at the false floor option. I used some lumber laying around to give me an idea of dimensions and what things I would need to take into consideration (AC plug, accessing the storage compartment and tie-downs, etc).







As much as I would have liked to have the false floor I didn't want to lose that much space. I test fit the amps under the seats. I could get them to work but the PQ20 would have been coming out of the rear of the seat and the Punch 100 just barely rubbed the cross bar of the passenger seat. I could have lived with this but I started thinking about the sub enclosure and whether I would stay with one sub or go with two. Since I would rather build in headroom on the system I decided to replace the Punch 100 with a PDX 1.600. Then that got me thinking about the high end so I got a PDX 4.100 as well. Now mounting them under the seat would be a snap.

Here are the ladies in waiting.


07/28/08 Update 2
I had ordered some of the needed hardware while I was making my final decisions on equipment. I started off doing a 4GA wire from the circuit breaker to the distribution block under the center console but since the run from the battery wasn't that long and they were pretty easy I just ran a 4GA wire to each amp. I made a mount plate for the circuit breaker and used some stock accessory holes to mount the plate. Note the extra 10GA wire ran for an accessory fuse block I added for future goodies.

















I ordered some TechFlex from Furry Letters and really like the stuff. This is the first time using it and I'm sold. I have used it on the power cables, interconnects and speaker wire.





07/28/08 Update 3
Here’s the PDX 1.600 installed under the passenger seat.














I used HDP to create a mount for the amps. I didn't want to drill though the floor so I came up with this.



 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
07/28/08 Update 4
I also have started on the sound deadening. I did the cargo area with RAAMmat and Ensolite. I will be doing the doors next when I install the speakers.




Since these pictures I have also added some RAAMmat, Volara and Ensolite under the rear body panels.

I decided to go with a JL10w3v3 in a custom enclosure in the stock sub location. I was going to build the FG enclosure myself but once I priced out what I would need to build it correctly it was $200. For what my time is worth, the extra $199 to buy custom enclosure from FJCruiserAudio.com (Ed and Al’s) was worth it. I also found good reviews on the net about that enclosure.






For the high-end I am using the Alpine PDX 4.100. I got spoiled doing the 1.600 first, one set of interconnects and one speaker wire. Now with two and four respectively things got a little tighter.












Several people have told me to either pull or plug the air vents under the seats but I was able to still make use of them. The mount plate I used for the amps gave me enough spacing to keep the same airflow as before I installed the amps. In the summer if the amps get hot I can always turn on the floor ducts and circulate some cool air. For winter I fab’d a piece of ABS to mount underneath the amp to act as a shield for hot air. It's not often I use the floor ducts so either way I'm not too concerned.




Having a raised double-floor is nice for tapping in your ground and not having to worry about putting a hole to the outside.



07/28/08 Update 5
I'm running all the interconnects and the high-end speaker wires under the center console I'm trying to stay away from the electronics mounted underneath there. I've seen others do the same thing and not have an issue so I'm keeping my fingers crossed. I don't have any long parallel runs with power wires and most of them are on a 90 degree angle where they meet. Not sure if that's just old skool hype but that's what we did back in the day.





08/03/08 Update 1
I have spent a lot of time deadening the doors. I don't like to just blanketly cover everything. I like to keep access to bolts, wires, covers, etc. It's not pretty when you have to pull that stuff off to get to something (been there done that in another vehicle). I have two layers of RAAMmat on the outer door wall and one layer on the inner door wall. I also have one layer of Ensolite and some patches of RAAMmat on the door panel.












I did the rear door with one layer of RAAMmat on the inner door wall and patches on the door panel. I also put two layers of Ensolite on the panel as well. It helped reduce the exhaust noise some but it’s still noticeable when you get on it. Unfortunately I forgot to snap some pics but you've seen one door deadened you've seen enough.
 

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Great install. Nice thread.
 

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FJ Expeditions R Us
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Welcome to the forum. Great write up!

cheers,

dale
 

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Nice work, good photos.

One ~small~ question. Does your rig see the offroad? Just curious on your thoughts about debris in/on the amplifiers and the risk of the water hazard.

Thanks for taking the time for the write up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Nice work, good photos.

One ~small~ question. Does your rig see the offroad? Just curious on your thoughts about debris in/on the amplifiers and the risk of the water hazard.

Thanks for taking the time for the write up.
It hasn't seen the off-road yet. I'm waiting to get over 2000 miles on it before I venture off-road. I'm not a hardcore off-roader so I'm not to worried about debris or water. However the reason I made a mount plate for the amps is so I didn't have to screw through the floor. I won't have an issue hitting the water but in honesty if I get enough water in the cabin to ruin the amps I will have more things to worry about. There are several electrical connections under the flooring so I would be more concerned about shorting something in those.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Today I started working on the custom tweeter mounts that I'm fabbing for the stock dash location. I had an idea of what I was going to do but once I got to actually doing it I figured it wouldn't give me what I wanted so I'm redesigning :thinkerg:. I hope to get them done in a day or two depending on work. I'll post some pics when I get them done.

On another note has anyone found it hard to find a single DIN dash kit for your FJ? I called 4 places around town and none of them had one. I ended up ordering it online from Beach Audio. I got the Metra 99-8219 kit and the 70-1761 wire harness. Does anyone have experience on how that kit fits the dash?
 

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xlynoz said:
It hasn't seen the off-road yet. I'm waiting to get over 2000 miles on it before I venture off-road. I'm not a hardcore off-roader so I'm not to worried about debris or water. However the reason I made a mount plate for the amps is so I didn't have to screw through the floor. I won't have an issue hitting the water but in honesty if I get enough water in the cabin to ruin the amps I will have more things to worry about. There are several electrical connections under the flooring so I would be more concerned about shorting something in those.
Fair enough.
Im just curious if also perhaps you occasionally might enough a Route44 sized Sonic drink.. because even that amount of water will short out the amps WAY before it causes any damage to the factory wiring.

As discussed PLENTY of times.
http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/foru...pray-out-my-interior.html?highlight=hosed+out

and this oldie:
http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forums/stereo-electronics/5483-washing-fj-out.html

I do like the mounting plates, quite innovative. Thanks again for the updates.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Fair enough.
Im just curious if also perhaps you occasionally might enough a Route44 sized Sonic drink.. because even that amount of water will short out the amps WAY before it causes any damage to the factory wiring.

As discussed PLENTY of times.
http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/foru...pray-out-my-interior.html?highlight=hosed+out

and this oldie:
http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forums/stereo-electronics/5483-washing-fj-out.html

I do like the mounting plates, quite innovative. Thanks again for the updates.

Another good thing about those mounting plates is that they raise the amps a little more than the floor normally was and with the air vent cutout I'm sure any spilt drink would make it to the metal floor before the inside of the amp.:cheers:. Worst case I it becomes an issue I will create a custom amp rack on the rear driver side.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
08/03/08 Update 2
I got the tweeter mounts mocked up. I used some 1/8" ABS plastic and cut a mount plate the same shape as the stock tweeter. I then mounted that to the stock speaker bracket. My plan was to use this for the Focal TN-47 tweets from my 165K2P set. However I found a thread on here about some silk soft dome tweets that were supposedly Rainbows that Midwest was selling. For $30 bucks I picked them up and will try doing some A/B comparison between them and the Focals. If they don't work out I’ll have an extra set in a pinch. Hey I could always go old skool and put them in the center vents for center stage :rocker:. I will be using the Alpine 9887's 3-way crossover so the mids and tweets will have 100 watts to each one. The mids will go into the stock location.















08/03/08 Update 3
I have one of the Focal mids installed (ran out of time). I was trying to decide on what to use for a mount plate. I didn't want to use MDF if I didn't have to and I was thinking about ordering some HDP (high density plastic) but as I was walking through Target one day it hit me because it was right in front of me, chopping blocks. They are HDP, cheap and right here.






I needed longer mounting bolts for the mid mounting plates and I ran out. You'll notice one missing in the picture.






Since the wiring does not lead into the door I needed to figure out how to route it to the speaker terminals. I've seen people cut the one of the rubber plugs and run it through there but I took a different approach. I drilled a hole on a 45 degree angle through the mount plate. I then ran the wire through and sealed it with the backing from the RAAMmat. It's kind of hard to see but it worked out nicely.




So far my worries of ignition noise have been subsided. Even though the interconnects pass over some electronics (knock on wood) I have zero ignition noise. I guess those Knukonceptz interconnects are shielded nicely. I got the Metra dash kit 99-8219 and the Metra wire harness 70-1761 from Beach Audio. I like the way this kit looks so far. I mocked it up in the dash fascia while it was off and it fit really well. I haven't put the fascia on the dash to get the final fit but I'll know for sure tomorrow when I finish it. The radio might seem like its sticking out in the pic and that's because it is. I haven't permanently mounted it yet and it's really just half way inserted right now.









10/10/08 Update
Originally I swapped out the Focal tweeters for the Blau VC100s to see the difference in sound. Those Focal TN-47s are just harsh. After listening to the VC100s for a while I decided I didn't have enough detail in the high end so I put a set of SEAS Prestige 27TFFNC/G 1" Textile Dome Tweeters (SEAS Neos as some call them) . These were just what I was looking for, great sound and at a great price, $30 each. There's something to be said about using DIY drivers especially if you are using an active crossover. I used the same mount I fabricated for the other tweeters but just mounted to the bottom of the stock speaker brace for additional clearance since these were a little taller.






After getting rid of the Focal tweeter harshness I was able to notice that the Focal mid had a nasty spike in the upper mid-range, approximately around 2kHz. With this in mind and the fact I wanted to get more midbass up front I decided to swap the Focal mids for the SEAS Prestige CA18RNX 7" mid.






10/24/08 Update
I decided that I wanted more flexibility in the EQ adjustment so I purchased an AudioControl DQS. Please note this is a temporary install. Once I get everything like I want, it will be mounted under the body panel where it's out of site and then I can just use the DDC to remotely adjust the EQ.

 

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Nice writeup!!!:rocker:

Looks like you got one sweet setup!!!:cheers:
 
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