[shack]

thanks guys.

I'm *thinking* about permanently mounting the tool box in the trailer. That means I'd lower it all the way down eliminating the spacers. To open the tool box, I'd actually french the handles into the trailer front. There's really not much to be gained by doing this other than aesthetics. Of course, whenever I removed the tool box I'd have 2 holes in the bed of the trailer. As I said, still thinking about this.

Other next steps are:

1) welding a 2" hitch on the rear for my T2 bike rack. The current fork mounts on the side of the trailer aren't really doing it for me, though they work fine for now

2) welding 2" hitches on both sides to allow for various items to be mounted when at camp. Great idea, Mark

3) 3500lb axle w/ electric brakes. FJ matched wheels & tires

4) new tongue setup to eliminate the surge brake lunette system. I've got a line on a 101a1 lunette on steelsoldiers, but the guy wants a little more than I'm willing to spend, so I'll just hold off and do a new 2" receiver tongue altogether. Also going to deck over the tongue area with some diamond plate to add a work area.

5) rear stabilizer jacks

6) Paint, finally. I really like the Manly ORV trailer color palette, so I'll likely copy that. Gray tub with a black frame. Tool box would get painted black too

 

[shack]

Well, I've taken the trailer on a few trips and figured out what I did and didn't like about my current arrangement. My main issue was the configuration necessitated by using the bows that came with the trailer. Using 3 bows I had to push the toolbox as far to the front as possible, meaning I had to raise the box using spacers, which looks ugly. I also had to use 3 bows to support the tent because using only 2 would push the tent too far towards the front or rear. I was going to get a welder to make up a new arrangement for me, but I've been wanting to learn how to weld myself, so...

I got a welder from my wife for my birthday. Its a cheapy HF model. The 90 Amp Flux core welder. Got an auto darkening helmet and a flux hammer and went to town on some some material I had laying around. I didn't even bother to clean the steel on this, I was more trying to figure out wire speed and heat.

First weld that I got to stick.





Lessons learned.

1. The MAX setting will definitely melt 1/8 square tube.

2. The HF flux core wire splatters all over the place. After doing a little research, I went and picked up some Lincoln .35 Flux Core from Lowes. Much better!

3. Having a grinder is a must

To check the strength, I placed one end on a 2x4 and the other on the ground, then jumped up and down on it. Very scientific I know. It held my 230lbs without flexing or breaking. SWEET!

I told myself I was going to do a lot more practice before I worked on the trailer, but I figured if I was going to practice, it might as well be on parts for the trailer.

 

[shack]

My plan to rework the trailer is to reduce the bows supporting the tent from 3 to 2. This will allow me to push the toolbox back, drop it down and create a cubby of sorts at the front that I can stash stuff in, like tools and 5gal jerry cans if needed.

The first part of this process is making new feet for my bows.





This is 1/8" square tube welded on to a 8" length of angle stock. These will replace the piece of steel that goes in the square stake holes, allowing me to place the tent wherever I want. I'll just bolt the angle iron to the sides to secure it.

 

[Mark Harley]

Nice additions. As I use my trailer I find more ways to make it more adapted to my needs. A chuck box kitchen is my next project. as for the rear reciever do it simple like mine. Cut a hold in the rear cross member and use a 12" receiver tube and sleeve it to the second cross member. I even pulled tandem with mine. " I wired it for a trailer plug in the rear too.

 

[Beach Cruiser]

Nice additions. As I use my trailer I find more ways to make it more adapted to my needs. A chuck box kitchen is my next project. as for the rear reciever do it simple like mine. Cut a hold in the rear cross member and use a 12" receiver tube and sleeve it to the second cross member. I even pulled tandem with mine. " I wired it for a trailer plug in the rear too.

Hey Mark, can you do that without removing the bed? If so, Shack, lets do this sometime. I'll bring my welder over or vice versa. You can teach me a thing or two.

 

[shack]

Looking good Mark. A receiver on the back and square tube hitch on the front are my next steps. I ordered my 2" lunette and it should be arriving today, so hopefully in the next few weeks I can move forward a bit.

 

[shack]

Yeah, you can do that without removing the bed. It would be a pain in the ass though.

 

[Mark Harley]

I took my bed off to paint everything. Same procedure cutting the rear hole then weld everything up strong. I use mine for a bike rack too. I tapped into the wire harness in the rear for additional trailer lights.

 

[shack]

Mark, when you painted your tub and frame, did you sandblast it first or just a good pressure washing?

 

[Mark Harley]

Don't forget to add some receivers under the sides for tables and racks too.

 

[shack]

Don't forget to add some receivers under the sides for tables and racks too.

Oh yeah, I'll be adding those as well.

 

[Mark Harley]

Mark, when you painted your tub and frame, did you sandblast it first or just a good pressure washing?

I took the tub off then pressure washed everything.
Sanded the frame of any rust, then primed the frame and painted it with oil based gloss black.

The tub. I sanded any rough spats pounded out the dents then I shot 5 coats of Mathews Hot Rod Red I had mixed at work.

 

[shack]

Hey Mark, can you do that without removing the bed? If so, Shack, lets do this sometime. I'll bring my welder over or vice versa. You can teach me a thing or two.

One or two things might be all I can teach. :lol: Still learning myself.

 

[shack]

I took the tub off then pressure washed everything.
Sanded the frame of any rust, then primed the frame and painted it with oil based gloss black.

The tub. I sanded any rough spats pounded out the dents then I shot 5 coats of Mathews Hot Rod Red I had mixed at work.

Cool, thanks for the tips! I've got a few dents to hammer out as well. I think I'm going to try Herculiner on mine when the time comes, or have the tub line-xed

 

[shack]

Well, this weekend I decided to take the bull by the horns and fab up my own 2" receiver for the back of the trailer. I didn't want to have a hitch that interfered with the tailgate, so that meant I had to recess it into the frame. This could create strength problems with the hitch, so I had to tie it into the frame somehow. My welding isn't the greatest, so I planned on using grade 8 bolts wherever I could to strengthen the whole assembly, while still welding where I could.

I started with a cheapy 1 1/4" to 2" adapter from Harbor Freight. Then I used that as a template, located the center of my trailer frame and cut a hole out with a jigsaw, like this



Looking from the bottom. The next frame member is about 18" away from the rear. Thats where the hitch will tie in to the frame.



After cutting the hole and getting a loose plan in my head, I went to the steel yard and picked up some 1.5" square stock. I think its 16 gauge, but I'm not sure. Doesn't really matter for this.



I ended up using a bit of angle scrap I had laying around from my tent mounts to create a flange to attach to the trailer. I ended up with this.



This is what the entire assembly looks like



Because of the tolerances I made, I had to slide the hitch in from one side and marry it to the brace from the other side. I bolted and welded it together, and ended up with this.





The welds from the brace to the hitch are hideous, but they prevent the hitch from wobbling a bit up and down. After that, all that was left was to bolt it to the front frame and tack weld the hitch to the hole.







Afterwards I threw my bikes and rack to test everything out.





And then I gave it my own, very scientific, test which involved me standing on the carrier and jumping up and down. It didn't budge, so I guess we're good to go!

Edit: Total cost was about $35 in materials

 

[PcCruiser]

Nice work! Motivating me start working on my m101a2.

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App

 

[shack]

Thanks! I really like working on it, mainly because it gives me something to do and its a lot cheaper than messing with the FJ.

Next step is a new axle and wheels to match the FJ

 

[Archy Chris]

Well, this weekend I decided to take the bull by the horns and fab up my own 2" receiver for the back of the trailer. I didn't want to have a hitch that interfered with the tailgate, so that meant I had to recess it into the frame. This could create strength problems with the hitch, so I had to tie it into the frame somehow. My welding isn't the greatest, so I planned on using grade 8 bolts wherever I could to strengthen the whole assembly, while still welding where I could.

Edit: Total cost was about $35 in materials

Nice work on the receiver. :wave:

 

[Deftone]

Very nicely done

 

[shack]

thanks gents!